Wife went to pick the kid up from school which is 1 mile away. Just before she turns in she says there is a grinding noise. Said it felt like it should have been going faster for the amount of gas she was giving it. Got the rig in a stall and shut it down. when I tried to go into reverse or forward nothing. when tow truck tried to load on flat bed, it wouldn't roll unless I put transfer case in neutral. Transmission fluid is clean. The rig does have 290,000 on it. with its whole life running 285s and a lot of trail use. So can I rebuild it in the truck or do I need to separate from the trans. Buy one with fewer miles or is there a Marlin Crawler upgrade. Thanks
Need Advice. Just Lost Transfer Case
- Thread starter Jonny D
- Start date
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If it's that bad I doubt the holes machined into the cases for the bearings are still in good shape. I'd find a replacement that doesn't seem to have too much leakage, change the fluid, and throw it up there to replace yours.
And do both of the speedo sender seals while you are at it. the inner one is kindof a pain in the butt but the only way to keep the whole thing from leaking, short of replacement.
And do both of the speedo sender seals while you are at it. the inner one is kindof a pain in the butt but the only way to keep the whole thing from leaking, short of replacement.
Transfer case is 'bullet proof', so I've been told. Tried to sell mine and was told there in no market since they never go bad. You sure it's the TC ? Sounds like it from your description but a second opinion might be good ?
Not trying to sell you anything but I have a unit in AZ that needs a home... Let me know if I can help you out.
Regards...
Not trying to sell you anything but I have a unit in AZ that needs a home... Let me know if I can help you out.
Regards...
Could definitly be your transmission. The transfer case is pretty simple and rarely fouls up. That said it could have slipped out of High range just enough to pop out.
Remove the transfer case from the truck and play with it on the bench. You should be able to turn the input by hand in either high or low range. If it seems fine then its transmission. If not then get a junkyard case. No biggie.
You would have to remove it, its not that hard. I was told, back in the day, you don't need a jack. So I removed it without a jack. It was heavy on my chest but I didn't get hurt. I don't recommend doing it without a jack of some sort.
The t-case/center diff is both a t-case and a differential. It easy to take apart. I have no idea how hard it would be to rebuild and if you have to deal with making sure the gears line with with shims or not. I just bought a brand new one.
The t-case/center diff is both a t-case and a differential. It easy to take apart. I have no idea how hard it would be to rebuild and if you have to deal with making sure the gears line with with shims or not. I just bought a brand new one.
I can only say this with any authority because I did my part-time install literally yesterday.. but I'm pretty sure the above pic isn't assembled correctly.
the input shaft, where #6 is pointing, is backwards. The flat side of the bearing that the red line is actually pointing to goes behind the 5-bolt round cover on the rear of the case, where the female splined section of the input shaft is pointed in that pic. Also happens to be where the VC (large metal cylinder, #3) is located.
Not a huge deal.. I don't know if anyone is using that pic as a FSM.. but felt it might need pointing out.
the input shaft, where #6 is pointing, is backwards. The flat side of the bearing that the red line is actually pointing to goes behind the 5-bolt round cover on the rear of the case, where the female splined section of the input shaft is pointed in that pic. Also happens to be where the VC (large metal cylinder, #3) is located.
Not a huge deal.. I don't know if anyone is using that pic as a FSM.. but felt it might need pointing out.
The first symptom- moving slowly, grinding noise- sounds like (a) stripped drive plate(s). The second- not moving unless t-case in neutral- does not support that, but doesn't make sense if it will move (slowly) under power. I would not be so fast to write off a bulletproof t-case when there are other possible explanations.
Burnt VC?
I've seen at least two posts on this board of fragged t-cases. They aren't absolutely bulletproof.
I'd drain the fluid from the case and see what comes out.
Also how would the VC/driveshaft/drive plate keep the truck from rolling unless the case is in neutral? Neutral disconnects the input gear from the output shaft gear AT the output shaft, nothing else.. That one symptom sounds to me like the problem is between the output and input in the t-case.
I'd bet you could tell a lot by pulling the 5-bolt top cover off the rear of the case.. it is lined up with the transmission output. If that doesn't give any clues, pull the rear extension housing. There you can see the rear bearings for the idler and output shafts.. if everything there is clean then I'd be worried about the transmission, and removing those two components is much easier than the whole t-case. Could probably do the 5-bolt cover with the rear shaft still in place.
I'd drain the fluid from the case and see what comes out.
Also how would the VC/driveshaft/drive plate keep the truck from rolling unless the case is in neutral? Neutral disconnects the input gear from the output shaft gear AT the output shaft, nothing else.. That one symptom sounds to me like the problem is between the output and input in the t-case.
I'd bet you could tell a lot by pulling the 5-bolt top cover off the rear of the case.. it is lined up with the transmission output. If that doesn't give any clues, pull the rear extension housing. There you can see the rear bearings for the idler and output shafts.. if everything there is clean then I'd be worried about the transmission, and removing those two components is much easier than the whole t-case. Could probably do the 5-bolt cover with the rear shaft still in place.
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Doc's call it exploratory surgery, dig in and see what's in there.
Anything man made can and will break - even anvils - lol
Have you dropped the t-case fluid ? That very well could tell the tale , IMO -
Have you dropped the t-case fluid ? That very well could tell the tale , IMO -
Dam, I had it wrong, now I have to go back to the salvage year and see if its still in the pile!!!
So #6 is backwards. Is that it?
I took it apart and threw it all in a box. Some time later I tried to put it out as a layout to see how it works. At the time it was just as a reference to show what the center diff/t-case looks like.
Wish I new how to PhotoChop so I could fix it.
I think so. Kinda makes sense too.. if you turn #6 around the bearings on that line up with the bearings on the idler and output shafts.. which is actually how they are set up in the case.
Really not a big deal.. As it is having the pic at all is super helpful and I don't think that detail would have any tangible negative effect on anyone. But it had my OCD synapses firing.
Really not a big deal.. As it is having the pic at all is super helpful and I don't think that detail would have any tangible negative effect on anyone. But it had my OCD synapses firing.
Exactly why it's not that big of a deal.
Has anyone ever used an atlas2 xfer case?
Drain the oil from the transfer and check for glitter to confirm it is the transfer.