Sorry if I missed it.
What are you doing to the new motor? A few gaskets or deeper?
Build My Tucson 40's
- Thread starter JackA
- Start date
Member Builds and Stories
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
What are you doing to the new motor? A few gaskets or deeper?
- Thread starter
- #643
Getting the motor ready. It's looks nice on the inside. Obviously, it's been rebuilt. I can see cross hatch on the cylinder walls. Looks like new pistons and reconditioned rods too.
I cleaned it up and gave it a paint job. Some new gaskets and seals tomorrow.
I cleaned it up and gave it a paint job. Some new gaskets and seals tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #646
Got more done today. Probably would have finished it, but I went to the swap meet this am. Got a few more 1920s grill shells to add to my collection.
Should be up and running this week.
View attachment 3130269
Should be up and running this week.
View attachment 3130269
My '72 looks like that. Was hoping I could run it clean over time on Delo 400 MGX. Guess I'll start looking for NOS bearings and rings so long...
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2005
- Threads
- 115
- Messages
- 25,810
That is the advantage of the late 74 model F engine. Anything that washes down into the sump has to go thru the oil filter before getting to the bearings. Only the pickup screen on the oil pump filters all the oil on earlier F engines. Those oil is split out the pump.some goes directly to the bearings. Rest goes to the oil filter then back into the sump.
That carb neck gasket is a simple pleasure!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #653
Motor is in and running. No weird noises, smells or smoke. Took it for a cruise with no issues. Makes decent power. All is good.........
Except the crack in the side of the block with coolant seeping out. I have added some block sealer and it just barely drips when hot under pressure.
Except the crack in the side of the block with coolant seeping out. I have added some block sealer and it just barely drips when hot under pressure.
- Thread starter
- #654
Went for another drive. It seems to only leak after I shut it off. Even then, it's just a small amount. Will try to add some JB weld to the spot to help eliminate the leak. Seems others have had decent luck with that.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Your rig looks great! Fantastic job on the "new" engine swap. Curious about your coil mounting: I was under the impression that they mount with the terminals facing down.
Beauty of a 40. Coming back to read the rest later
- Thread starter
- #658
It's still leaking. The crack is about 3 to 4 inches long. Only leaks when up to operating temp. Will probably try to JB weld it at some point. Even if that stops the leak.....it's still a major bummer. Cause who wants to buy a 40 with cracked block.
Also came home tonight to a broken blower motor on my houses AC. When it rains it pours. Fawk me.
Also came home tonight to a broken blower motor on my houses AC. When it rains it pours. Fawk me.
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2005
- Threads
- 115
- Messages
- 25,810
A lot of work but how is the block on the motor you pulled?
Still kicking around selling my 70 FJ40. Original owner I bought it from pulled the F155 for a 2F. Claimed the F was buying exhaust valve. Found a 2F that was pulled out new in 1975 for a V8 conversion. Last time I checked the serial number was about the third lowest on list in the sticky at the top of the 44/55 section. Other two were not in the US. The original owner's story lines up. He has since past away. The engine has run great the little I've driven in the eleven years I've owned it. After your experiences I'm leary to pull it in favor of a early F engine. I'm leaning towards if it ain't broke don't fix it. It does suck you want to move this one on to work I project you want to keep. I do not have any loose engines I know the history of. Probably going to gamble with a 2F I pulled from a 71 I parted out years ago. Compression numbers were all 150 PSI plus when I pulled it years ago. Have a FJ25, FJ40 and FJ45 that all have early 2Fs. I can understand why. They are a nicer running engine.
Still kicking around selling my 70 FJ40. Original owner I bought it from pulled the F155 for a 2F. Claimed the F was buying exhaust valve. Found a 2F that was pulled out new in 1975 for a V8 conversion. Last time I checked the serial number was about the third lowest on list in the sticky at the top of the 44/55 section. Other two were not in the US. The original owner's story lines up. He has since past away. The engine has run great the little I've driven in the eleven years I've owned it. After your experiences I'm leary to pull it in favor of a early F engine. I'm leaning towards if it ain't broke don't fix it. It does suck you want to move this one on to work I project you want to keep. I do not have any loose engines I know the history of. Probably going to gamble with a 2F I pulled from a 71 I parted out years ago. Compression numbers were all 150 PSI plus when I pulled it years ago. Have a FJ25, FJ40 and FJ45 that all have early 2Fs. I can understand why. They are a nicer running engine.
Can also check out Lock n' Stitch for the crack repair. Cummins 6BT "53" blocks had an issue where they developed a 3-5in crack that would weep coolant. Lock n Stitch seems to be the go-to fix to save the block. Shame to tear down a good engine to switch blocks.
Lock n' Stitch
Lock n' Stitch