Large washer interesting idea. But there is no need for it!
We only need to torque castle nut to spec and the proper size cotter pin.
The castle nut torque to spec of 90ft-lbf plus. Will seat TRE stud in steering arm properly. The cotter pin, is just a back-out safety. The closed end loop, of cotter pin. Should be, turned parallel to stud in castle nut notch. One leg of cotter pin bend down in other side of castle nut in its notch. The other leg over the top of stud. Size of cotter pin, is key to proper fitment.
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Torque wrenches should be, in every tool box. They should be used on every assemble. Digital are best, but even clicker or needle pointer work.
I really hate it when I see written step by step or instructional videos. That do not, state or show a torque wrench in use during assembly. Torque spec are important: They insure, fasteners has proper holding pressure. I know many think they've a good feel. Or say, I never break a bolt or strip threads or Good Enough. WRONG!. How does one even know the "feel", if they never even used a torque wrench. It's less about not breaking or stripping fasteners. More about proper and equal clamping pressure.
Torque wrenches, must used correctly. We hold at handle, at marked point on handle. We turn very slowly, as we come up to spec torque. We reduce torque for lubed threads, when spec doesn't call for lube (sealer, loctite) on threads. If angle, i.e. swivel exceed max allowable (~5 degrees) we increase torque. Which chats on how much increase, are available online. Long skinny extensions, may flex, so avoid their use. Dog leg if not called for, also need avoiding
Here's some, off topic examples, of torque wrench use to insure equal pressure on fasteners:
It's on Automatic transmission (A/T) valve body's (VB). I know, it's unrelated to TRE.
Both use lower-powered torque, power tools, to install bolts. Which manufactures and high volume shop do. They're very clearly, both pro's, with many years of rebuilding A/T experience. Note: Threading bolts on by hand, minimum of three turns, avoids cross threading.
One of these rebuilders IPT, I'd use in a hearth beat. IPT, rebuilds many VB for performance as well as for stock transmission. They show and talk about proper bolt torque of VB and sequence.
One I would not use. He's, procedurally sloppy on VB assembly. So how could expect, good results, with his VB rebuilds. He recommends replacing with new VB.
Here we see IPT, uses a torque wrench on valve body bolts. He also, used a reamers and bore guide tools. His shop specializes, in performance valve bodies and for many many years. You think he, "has the feel" and could do without torque wrench. Sure! But the torque wrench insure proper and equal pressure on all fasteners. I'd hire IPT Performance Transmission to rebuild my A/T and or just valve body in a heart beat.
At 24:48 you'll see torque on valve body bolts, of this full rebuild of valve body video.
At 9:45. Of this R&R of valve body only, torque wrench used.
This shop, shows no torque wrench used. Only snugging each bolt by hand wrench at best, in one of his videos I watched. Another video only used pneumatic wench. No reaming or boring of ports. He stated, all valve body should be replaced. His rebuild valve bodies would obviously, fail to give consistent good results.
Within first 1 minutes, he states: "I still hold to new valve body" (meaning don't rebuild VB, replace it). At 5 min you'll see how he installs bolts (no torque wrench) with just pneumatic wrench. This shop has other videos. I saw one, on just valve body rebuild, another on whole A/T disassemble and another on full A/T rebuilds. One wherein, he finished VB bolts, with a hand ratchet wench snugging, torqueing by feel. Is it any wonder, he implies; don't rebuild VB, replace with new.
2009 Toyota TacomaHad some camera problems filming this one, luckily had another unit come in right after this one so was able to get the footage that I lost...
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