My Truck Thinks I'm Skidding When Turning Right...

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Joined
Jan 25, 2007
Threads
67
Messages
591
Location
Winter Park, CO.
Kind of. Sometimes. VSC is activating when turning right at speeds above 10 MPH. Well, it beeps and the light flashes. I don't hear the usual buzzing of the ABS doing its part though. This all started the other day with the VSC Off and VSC Trac off lights on the dash. I turned the truck off and then back on and the lights went out. It was fine for a day or two. Then it happened again. After that those lights haven't come on again but the VSC light flashing and beeping started. The ATRAC even activated a few times. That did fully activate with the ABS and pulling throttle. I checked codes with Techstream and got these:

-C1233: Open or Short Circuit in Yaw Rate Sensor Circuit
-C1234: Yaw Rate Sensor
-C1340: Open Circuit in Center Differential Lock Signal(During Center Cifferential Lock ON). There was a little blue "snowflake" in the left column next to this one(I don't know what this means). NOTE: For this last one, I have replaced the CDL indicator switch on the transfer case about 3 years ago with an aftermarket part. That may be dead or dying now so I'm looking for the part number for a Toyota replacement. I am having a hard time finding it on Partsouq.

I cleared the codes last night. When driving it this morning, it was all good! I was happy. Then when driving home from work, it came back. In some ways worse in that VSC would activate even when I was driving straight. It is generally better when at highway speeds of 55+. It mostly happens in the 10-50mph range. If I am turning right at about 20mph and VSC activates, often times I can turn the wheel even further to the right and VSC will turn off.

I checked for codes after all this today and there were none.

I have read on here about multiple solutions that people feel have solved the problem, mostly mechanical such as:
-Inner steering tie rods. The steering feels tight.
-Steering rack bushings. One of the bushings is dying for sure but things still feel tight. I have to take a closer look to see where this is.
-Possible wheel bearing looseness. I seriously doubt this on as I just did a brake and wheel bearing service 5k ago.

I have to jack up the front to check on looseness of the tie rods etc. tomorrow. This is a bummer because this is my work(and only) vehicle and I'm busy right now. I'm still driving it as it doesn't feel unsafe but I'm concerned about making things worse.

If anyone has any thoughts on this, I welcome them!

EDIT: I found 3 "SWITCH, TRANSFER INDICATOR" there is a NO. 1, NO. 2 and NO. 3. 1 and 3 have the same part number. I think it's NO. 2 by the placement but the picture is the same for all 3 of them. GAH!
 
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When mine did this, it was the rack. FWIW.

Extremely annoying, especially when it tried to steer me into oncoming traffic.
 
Let's us know how TRE, rack bushing, wheel bearings and ball joints feel. Make sure to glance at ABS sensors.

I've seen where a front-end, becomes sloppy. Due to a multiple components stacking-up, all at same time. One of them is the AHC, in need of service. Like Flush & Adjust or globes getting too weak. Add into the mix soft R&P mounting bushing. VSC kick-in easily.

It would be a good idea to do a zero point calibration, while in TS. Found in ABS tab.

Notes:
  • I've seen a few cases. Where inner TRE become unstaked. They walk off. A sign of this: Steering wheel becomes un-centered. It moves more and to one side as TRE walks off more. I typically hear a little bit of a "clunk". As I grab and twist/rock (3 & 9 o'clock) that wheel only off the ground.
  • The DTC's may have been old. That's one reason we clear and see what comes back.
  • The Blue snowflake in TS, in line of a DTC. Is a link to freeze frame info, at time that DTC activated. Click on it and a screen well come up, with many lines of data.
 
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Let's us know how TRE, rack bushing, wheel bearings and ball joints feel. Make sure to glance at ABS sensors.

I've seen where a front-end, becomes sloppy. Due to a multiple components stacking-up, all at same time. One of them is the AHC, in need of service. Like Flush & Adjust or globes getting too weak. Add into the mix soft R&P mounting bushing. VSC kick-in easily.

It would be a good idea to do a zero point calibration, while in TS. Found in ABS tab.

Notes:
  • I've seen a few cases. Where inner TRE become unstaked. They walk off. A sign of this: Steering wheel becomes un-centered. It moves more and to one side as TRE walks off more. I typically hear a little bit of a "clunk". As I grab and twist/rock (3 & 9 o'clock) that wheel only off the ground.
  • The DTC's may have been old. That's one reason we clear and see what comes back.
  • The Blue snowflake in TS, in line of a DTC. Is a link to freeze frame info, at time that DTC activated. Click on it and a screen well come up, with many lines of data.
Thanks Paul.

My steering angle when in TS in the ABS/VSC/ATRAC tab was 1150. I don't know how much that matters or if that's a big sign. I've seen numbers like that in the AHC section but it didn't create this kind of issue. I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes with the steering wheel straight and that reset the angle.

I'll check the hardware today when I get some time and look at the zero point calibration also.

Makes sense on the freeze frame. I did click and get the screenshot attached:

IMG_9330.webp
 
This was the ABS/VSC/ATRAC data window:

IMG_9331.webp
 
Thanks Paul.

My steering angle when in TS in the ABS/VSC/ATRAC tab was 1150. I don't know how much that matters or if that's a big sign. I've seen numbers like that in the AHC section but it didn't create this kind of issue. I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes with the steering wheel straight and that reset the angle.

I'll check the hardware today when I get some time and look at the zero point calibration also.

Makes sense on the freeze frame. I did click and get the screenshot attached:

View attachment 4011382
It's not uncommon working in AHC to see, angle numbers high. It only takes minor changes in steering wheel, to change readings..

I do, a good amount of steering angle calibration in 03-07 LX with VGRS. Which is more step then most have a clue need dealt with. With the LC. I don't recall what calibration can be done on steering angle. But, be sure to root around in TS while in there.

Key, when doing ZPC (in ABS tab). Vehicle level, wheels straight & steering wheel dead on. No one or cargo in vehicle, door close, full tank of gas, tire pressure set. Dead on straight & level, is hard part for me. So best done, while on alignment rack.
 
To check your rack, look at the rack while someone turns the wheel (with the truck on). The rack should not move much at all. If you see the rack moving before the tires, the bushings are shot.
 
To check your rack, look at the rack while someone turns the wheel (with the truck on). The rack should not move much at all. If you see the rack moving before the tires, the bushings are shot.
Some R&P mounting bushings, we've no doubt they're shot. They're be very little rubber remaining. We'll see rack housing lift off the frame, when wheels turned.

Poly bushing won't move much if at all. They're near indsurtable.
OEM rubber bush are designed to move side to side.

Better indicators
03-07: How much bushing outer cup has turn.
Steering rack mount bad.webp

98-07: Condition of rubber. Does rubber lift and separate, when wheel turned. Does vehicle wonder on HWY, even when TRE, alignment, ball joint good and wheel bearing tight.
New OEM R&P normal movement:


Viewing rubber bushings, as steering wheel turned side to side. Can be very revealing. By watching for rubber separation and rack housing lifting.

These we see cracking in aged rubber, as nears end of useable life.


This R&P moves excessively and without bushing resistance.
 
I have not hooked up techstream to scan mine since my issue started, but this sounds almost identical to the issue I've been having. Mine started right after I replaced the steering rack (and full PS system) and tie rod ends, with the difference being that I only noticed because when I make that first tight right-hand turn after starting the vehicle I do get the ABS shudder as the car slams on the brakes. So far, this only ever occurs once (on the first right-hand turn) until the vehicle is restarted, and only a couple of times has the computer decided to turn off abs/traction control following this issue.

Guess I need to dig into it more, but I'm still planning on checking the physical condition of the wheel speed sensors to make sure I didn't damage them during the rack replacement.
 
I haven’t had time to get back into this but I have noticed that it has not happened in the mornings. It’s been colder here lately(35 degrees +/-). If this problem is a bushing issue then stiffer rubber due to cold may be the reason for that.

My truck feels tight on the road and doesn’t wander. The steering wheel is slightly(VERY) uncentered but it’s been that way even since my last alignment.
 
Mine had this problem, it turned out to be loose wheel bearing nut when I did the front rotors and I didn't tighten the preload enough
 
Mine had this problem, it turned out to be loose wheel bearing nut when I did the front rotors and I didn't tighten the preload enough
Loose wheel bearings, is the most common cause of "false" ABS activation. This is because the ABS CPU, is given a false signal. That the loose wheel hub (bearings) which has tone ring attached to, As having a difference in rotation speed from other wheels. We see it in turns or ruts in the road. As wheel hub, angles over to one side. Thus changing distance of tone ring, from wheel speed sensor which is fixed in knuckle.

Also; The Tone Ring can be damaged or have a blockage I've seen this happen, but it can. Be bad enough to also give false signal.
I do see damaged tone rings. Which is 98% of time from, improper rotor R&R. Tone can take damage from loose wheel bearings. Where tone ring colides with wheel speed sensor. But that damages is usually more on the sensor. Tone rings usually just has, minor deflection on teeth.
I see it all to often. Where the tone ring has taken hits. When someone beats on the wheel hub with steel hammer, to beat off the brake rotor disk.
1760634605458.webp



BTW: Here TS screen to ZPC
IMG_2599.webp

IMG_2600.webp
 
New rack solved it for me. Was due at 330k. What's your mileage? Swapped to poly bushings while I was at it.
 
New rack solved it for me. Was due at 330k. What's your mileage? Swapped to poly bushings while I was at it.
I'm at 172k. I know one of the rack bushings is going bad. According to Toyota records, this is the 3rd rack in this truck. I don't know what that's about, input error, truck having a tough early life, bad rack or install for one of them, etc. I drive on a lot of dirt roads, some of them washboarded to hell. I take it as easy as I can. I like poly bushings but they, being stiffer, will take up less shock, transmitting it into the parts. It would be great if there was an aftermarket option for the same density as OEM but with the durability of poly. It seems like for how solid and over-built these trucks are, the steering rack is a weak link.

I hope to dig into this tomorrow or Sunday when I can get caught up with work.
 
This came about for me after installing poly rack bushings. Removing the front sway bar was negatively helpful, of course.
So you swapped in poly bushings and removed the front sway bar and this started?
 
There is an old thread that shows how to manually turn off the vsc. Just an option in case you need to ''turn it off''. Can be done quickly and will keep you from pissing your pants when it randomly does it to you again.
 
There is an old thread that shows how to manually turn off the vsc. Just an option in case you need to ''turn it off''. Can be done quickly and will keep you from pissing your pants when it randomly does it to you again.
This is good to know. I was considering unplugging the CDL Lock indicator on the transfer case to do this. I'll look up the thread.
 
Just chiming in that it was also a worn out steering rack for me. A 2000 that had around 200K on it. I got a new rack and new pair of pants and all was good.
 
Oddly enough, I didn’t think these were connected, but my traction and skid lights came on in a right leaning bank, about 6 months before a serious leak took out my rack.
2000 LC 306k on original rack
 
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