My new '79 FJ40 build thread (1 Viewer)

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Finally was able to see the block serial no. After some PB Blaster and brass brush time.
I also installed a new washer/coolant bottles and Anco washer pump p/n 67-14 since the 79 version is NLA. Had to pull the factory plug and replace it with one that’s compatible with the new pump. The factory wire terminals fit the new plug exactly. It’s not a waterproof connector like the one it replaced but some dielectric grease should keep the terminals nice.
It happens to be the same plug used for several things in my ‘79; radio, rear side marker lights...
Installed some new toyota rear seat belts. They aren’t the right color but put them in anyway until I can find some grey ones.
 
From the 2F registry thread...

"5th owner, I think?
2/79 FJ40 USA

Engine #2F 351533 (built sometime after Dec. '78, SOR's database only goes up to 12/78)

Frame # FJ40301430 (built according to SOR sometime between Feb. & Mar. of '79)"

carb is date stamped 9B22 so it was built 2/22/79

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where did you find those CBs?

watch out for those seat belts...manufactured by Takata. They might explode into shrapnel.
Just lucked out and found them. Still sorting out wiring and all for both, not sure if they work yet. Well the F turns on and lights up...
I hope the Takata belts don’t explode if they do looks like its my loto ticket to a newer 200.
 
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Replaced the spare tire carrier bushings. No more shaking.
Thanks @oldschool4wheeling for posting up the parts in your build thread!
1979 FJ40 Old School Overhaul

The bottom bracket is 11mm so cut down the bottom bronze bushings to be 5.5mm below the 2mm collars. Flat filed until all edges were pretty even.

The ‘79 did not have welds on the bottom of the pins like the ‘82. @Simcoe ...

Instead the pin was sandwiched in the bracket with the weld holding it tight. So ground the welds down and the pin came right out with some persuasive blows of the hammer. Tacked the brackets back together after the new bushings and pins were installed. A special thanks to my neighbor who did the grinding and
welding.

Also had a broken bolt in the bottom braket, upper inboard one. That caused alot of extra work and time but got a replacement matching bolt from my 80 series parts stash. All 8 bolts are M8x1.25 and both pins are 16mm
 
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Well it’s been far to long since I’ve posted up in this thread.
I scored a box of parts from @Dirtygumboots for the ‘79.

In it was a Seatbelt Warning controller that I had been wanting. After disassembly & cleaning, I was excited to find all the solders on the circuit board intact. I hope it will fix my seatbelt light from always being illuminated while the IGN is On.
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Worked on the front left brake caliper.
The outer, lower piston was not retracting so I rebuilt it with a Toyota rebuild kit.

Found that both smaller pistons were missing the boot retainer rings & there was no anti rattle spring installed.

Made a make shift jig for holding the caliper while removing the stuck piston.

Also made my own SST to remove the piston.

They cleaned up pretty well. You can still see the original zinc yellow plating under the built up brake dust. I could have went further cleaning and scrubbing but who is going to see them. I’ll do a full cleaning when I do a frame off.

Anyway, here is what worked;
One dip, scrub & rinse with Purple Power followed by soak in oven cleaner and a braise with the torch. Then 2 soaks and scrubs in Distilled White Vinegar followed by a Baking Soda bath & rinse.
 
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Out of all the vehicles I’ve owned, this is the only one that ever had missing brake hardware. Usually I just reuse them unless they are really bad.

I ordered some from Toyota but they won’t be in until next week and I want to test out this caliper.

I ended up getting some hardware at 3 different big box stores. Pads at one, pins at another and anti-rattle/retention pins at a 3rd store.

The rotor was in spec at 20mm.

So I put on the sacraficial cheapo pads ($14.99) to test out the caliper as I don’t want to destroy a new Toyota rotor and set of pads if my caliper rebuild skills are no good.

Anyway, these parts fit and these pads are the exact dimensions of the Toyota pads.

Need to bleed and test. Fingers crossed.
 
Replaced the candle light Sylvania halogens with a pair of Anzo 7” with H4 bulbs.
Light output is better. No where close to HID but that is not happening on this 40. I’m still not sure if I like the modern look of these yet. I retained the rusty grills to hide them a bit.
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