my living nightmare. valve cover gasket replacement turns into engine out job
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And now... for the exciting conclusion of the dumbest thread on Ih8mud. I dont care if you all make fun of me, i had to document this experience for two reasons- one to just let out my frustration, and two - in case anyone else has this same problem. I reflect on what I've learend or what I could have done differently , to prevent this. One thing that may have prevented this was spraying WD-40 or smiliar on the valve cover bolt holes from underneath before the job. I did this on the passenger side ones after the engine was out, and I had no drama on the passenger side. So I dont know what else I could have done to prevent the Driver Side valve Cover bolts from breaking. I took my time getting them out, and I was not using power tools. They were just probably just going to break, no matter what. To anyone reading this, spray ,spray, spray before you try this job.
Anyway - Final update: The job is done! the truck is back on the road and better than ever!
I got everything connected back up, and it fired right up. I did have one code, for oxygen sensor. I combed over the engine bay several times, looking for any connectors i missed. Cound't find any. It turns out I missed one of the 13 plugs that was behind the ECU in the glove box. So once I got that plugged back in, I have been code free. She runs wonderfully now, and zero leaks! The CSF Radiator is great, it cools extremely well. And now I have done all the Preventative Matinance for the next several years: Starter, Exh. Manifolds, every single coolant line, Alternator Brushes, Engine mounts, Rear Main seal, etc.
I only had to replace about 1/2 quart of ATWS fluid, and obiviously changed the oil after this job. (I did have to take the oil filter off to R&R the A/C Compressor)
I just want to thank those that supported me on this journey. I had no idea what I was getting into with this. I know that I could have just slapped some sort of clamp or something on it, but that just isnt good enough for me. Thanks for all those that read and provided suggestions, i really appreciate it.
THE END
Anyway - Final update: The job is done! the truck is back on the road and better than ever!
I got everything connected back up, and it fired right up. I did have one code, for oxygen sensor. I combed over the engine bay several times, looking for any connectors i missed. Cound't find any. It turns out I missed one of the 13 plugs that was behind the ECU in the glove box. So once I got that plugged back in, I have been code free. She runs wonderfully now, and zero leaks! The CSF Radiator is great, it cools extremely well. And now I have done all the Preventative Matinance for the next several years: Starter, Exh. Manifolds, every single coolant line, Alternator Brushes, Engine mounts, Rear Main seal, etc.
I only had to replace about 1/2 quart of ATWS fluid, and obiviously changed the oil after this job. (I did have to take the oil filter off to R&R the A/C Compressor)
I just want to thank those that supported me on this journey. I had no idea what I was getting into with this. I know that I could have just slapped some sort of clamp or something on it, but that just isnt good enough for me. Thanks for all those that read and provided suggestions, i really appreciate it.
THE END
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Dude you're the man! Crazy job to take on but awesome that you got it done and love how thorough you were in the process. Cheers to many more years with your rig!
8 months ago I wanted you to put a clamp on it. Now I'm glad you didn't 
Awesome work and documenting. I'm surprised that PS reservoir didn't make the list...
Awesome work and documenting. I'm surprised that PS reservoir didn't make the list...
Definitely an awesome and thorough job. You’ve got a clean truck and a very PMd engine bay.8 months ago I wanted you to put a clamp on it. Now I'm glad you didn't
Awesome work and documenting. I'm surprised that PS reservoir didn't make the list...
to many years of happy cruising.I chimed in with the clamp fix while you were still figuring it out. Have put about 2k miles on it so far and no leaks yet
Each rig has its own story and yours will be good!
@excessive, completely insane thread, glad it's all back together and running better than ever. I pray I never have to go through what you went through because of a broke bolt. 
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now you all know where my username comes from. thanks for the support everyone.
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- #90
I thought I would replace the trans input shaft seal while I had the engine out, but mine was not leaking. I should have left it alone. The seal is extremely tough to get out, getting it back in was no harder than any other seal. but the whole thing about getting it out that is different than most other seals is that you have to work around the transmissions input shaft, which makes using any sort of tool to get it out really tough. I think i ended up ripping it out bit by bit with pliers until I got it all out.
I did my valve covers over Aug and Sept. Had an ever so slight passenger side oil leak.This thread was inspiring (as was the Rob Schnieder "you can do it!" Meme) as I broke 1 bolt on the passenger and which despite every stud removal technique (except welding a nut). Literally spent a week just trying to get the stud to turn. Eventually I ground it down drilled and chased/retapped the threads.
I spent the next week soaking the driver side bolts with kroil each night. Ive dealt with many, many, rusted and broken bolts with my hundy so it isnt like i just fell off the turnip truck - my eyes were wide open... My plan was to warm the engine, soak the bolts 1 last time, and carefully remove w/my quarter inch socket set. The technique would be to carefully 2 quarter turns left 1 quarter right, ect. taking as much time (and kroil) as needed to get the 9 bolts removed. Long story short was that 5 of the 9 bolts broke. Two on top and three on bottom. Two bolts broke at the head of the bolt (leaving a long stud), two snapped flush with the head, 1 left about 1 cm of stud. Just like @excessive, I could not get any movement. Eventually drilled, chased and/retapped all 5 (over the course of 5 days about 2 hours per day). Was able to get new oem hardware on and everything torqued back to spec. New oem gaskets, tube seals, and denso plugs. Feel really lucky as this all could've gone sideways. But again "extracting" (don't be fooled by the youtube vids) these bolts, if they are stuck, are pretty much impossible to remove without breaking so really assess if you need to do this job - definitely an "if it ain't broke, don't fix" job...
I spent the next week soaking the driver side bolts with kroil each night. Ive dealt with many, many, rusted and broken bolts with my hundy so it isnt like i just fell off the turnip truck - my eyes were wide open... My plan was to warm the engine, soak the bolts 1 last time, and carefully remove w/my quarter inch socket set. The technique would be to carefully 2 quarter turns left 1 quarter right, ect. taking as much time (and kroil) as needed to get the 9 bolts removed. Long story short was that 5 of the 9 bolts broke. Two on top and three on bottom. Two bolts broke at the head of the bolt (leaving a long stud), two snapped flush with the head, 1 left about 1 cm of stud. Just like @excessive, I could not get any movement. Eventually drilled, chased and/retapped all 5 (over the course of 5 days about 2 hours per day). Was able to get new oem hardware on and everything torqued back to spec. New oem gaskets, tube seals, and denso plugs. Feel really lucky as this all could've gone sideways. But again "extracting" (don't be fooled by the youtube vids) these bolts, if they are stuck, are pretty much impossible to remove without breaking so really assess if you need to do this job - definitely an "if it ain't broke, don't fix" job...
This is just crazy and scary to hear. What are these bolts made out of? Butter?
My truck had the valve cover gaskets done at a Lexus dealer before my ownership ~8 years ago. And I can't imagine Lexus techs being able to be as precise with these as you mention. I wonder how this job goes down when it is done at the dealership....
Or maybe there is some age component here? When the bolts are 10 years old they are fine, but when they get to be 20 years old, watch out?
Also now wondering if this should just be preventative maintenance to change these bolts out every ~15 years.
I really don't know. I can say that before I started the job I watched a lot of videos showing the replacement of the valve cover gasket on the 2uzfe, mostly all were tundras/sequoias and all were "easy" 3 - 5 hours - so I was naive. It wasn't until I broke the first bolt on the passenger side that I found these threads and found an @OTRAMM (who is legend in my book) video where he broke a bunch doing this job... on the new oem bolts they are coated with green threadlock so that may play a part. I know others try to replace with stainless but you still gotta get them out and use new rubber washers. my view is that unless you're truck spent it's life in the southwest this job should be taken on an as-needed basis. If you take this job on and any of these bolts break you can fix it (@OTRAMM said he welded bolts to extract the studs). For me that meant carefully drilling and chasing/retapping each bolt. I will say that when I finally got this all fixed and back together, I walked on clouds for the next week - it was an incredibly good feeling to work through that problem. But I wouldn't do it again.
I'm dealing with the same problem, broken stud on the passenger side. Can I ask, were there any other specific things you did to drill the studs out? I've read some folks removed motor mounts and that kind of thing. I was imagining a right angle drill with some short bits might get the job done. Any extra detail that helped you get this job done would be appreciated!
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I was just dealing with this. Bought the induction heater just for these valve cover bolts. Got them red hot, double nut still snapped the bolt. Tried welding and every other extractor I could find. Nothing worked. These bolts are garbage. 7 of 9 broke on one side, 4 of 9 on the other.
Thanks for documenting this saga. I just went through the same thing on my 04 Lexus LandCruiser.
Bolt broke furthest back and down on the drivers side wedged right next to the firewall and steering shaft. No visibility for what I felt would be a clean and well placed weld without further warping or damaging the cylinder head. Certainly no room for a drill with the exception of perhaps some aircraft mechanic grade 90 degree pneumatic deal. And even then, you can't see where the hell you're drilling.
I even consulted a car guy I work with who brought up a trick machinists use for removing steel seized into aluminum parts- that is to submerge the whole thing in a supersaturated solution of potassium aluminum sulfate (Alum), which will rapidly rust the steel until it dissolves. Hard to devise a contraption on the rig that can keep liquid in and maintain a steady warm temperature so that solute wont come out of solution and just sit there forming crystals.
Thus... engine had to come out. Took me a few months a little at a time when I had time, and its all back together now. I regret nothing and the truck is better than ever. Most of all, it does not leak oil. Yes I cursed at times, but it saved me from crying later from some catastrophic failure.
The list of " while you're in there's" is pretty easy to grow. But I took the opportunity to reaseal the oil pan, replace some coolant bypass hoses, replace the rear main seal. I also had a bolt to the drivers side sway bar that was seized in that I would not have been able to get to without the engine out, and I replaced the PS rack, because mine was leaky and on its last legs. Good time to do well just about anything while the motor is out of the truck, timing belt if its due for example. I actually discovered that my oil pain was starting to leak when the engine was out and in the sunlight, so it would have eventually had to come at least some of the way out to do that.
For a truck that youre going to love hard and drive hard this job is well worth the effort to keep the blood in the circulatory system and fix it the right way (My final fix was a Time Sert, bolt was so stuck even an extractor would not work). And this kind of thing happens to the pros too, a professional mechanic friend of mine had said that sometimes engine out may be quoted for worst possible scenario for valve cover gasket job, its that common of a bolt to break.
Bolt broke furthest back and down on the drivers side wedged right next to the firewall and steering shaft. No visibility for what I felt would be a clean and well placed weld without further warping or damaging the cylinder head. Certainly no room for a drill with the exception of perhaps some aircraft mechanic grade 90 degree pneumatic deal. And even then, you can't see where the hell you're drilling.
I even consulted a car guy I work with who brought up a trick machinists use for removing steel seized into aluminum parts- that is to submerge the whole thing in a supersaturated solution of potassium aluminum sulfate (Alum), which will rapidly rust the steel until it dissolves. Hard to devise a contraption on the rig that can keep liquid in and maintain a steady warm temperature so that solute wont come out of solution and just sit there forming crystals.
Thus... engine had to come out. Took me a few months a little at a time when I had time, and its all back together now. I regret nothing and the truck is better than ever. Most of all, it does not leak oil. Yes I cursed at times, but it saved me from crying later from some catastrophic failure.
The list of " while you're in there's" is pretty easy to grow. But I took the opportunity to reaseal the oil pan, replace some coolant bypass hoses, replace the rear main seal. I also had a bolt to the drivers side sway bar that was seized in that I would not have been able to get to without the engine out, and I replaced the PS rack, because mine was leaky and on its last legs. Good time to do well just about anything while the motor is out of the truck, timing belt if its due for example. I actually discovered that my oil pain was starting to leak when the engine was out and in the sunlight, so it would have eventually had to come at least some of the way out to do that.
For a truck that youre going to love hard and drive hard this job is well worth the effort to keep the blood in the circulatory system and fix it the right way (My final fix was a Time Sert, bolt was so stuck even an extractor would not work). And this kind of thing happens to the pros too, a professional mechanic friend of mine had said that sometimes engine out may be quoted for worst possible scenario for valve cover gasket job, its that common of a bolt to break.
Amazing journey and write up. A proof that the come back is greater than the setback 