My first front axle service in progress; got some questions

[Tools R Us]

If it's just the inner bearing/seal, you can place the hub back on the spindle and thread the spindle nut(s)on then pull the hub toward you using the spindle nut to push the bearing and seal out. I've never done it this way, but seen several do it on mini axles with success.

This is my preferred way to remove them. If you want to remove it on the ground, I use a big pry bar/huge screwdriver.

For the cleanup, I always put big sheets of cardboard on the floor, a couple of layers, so the top one can be removed as needed. For the first grease cleanup, I use a kitchen spatula and a box, by scooping the grease into the box, most of the bulk grease can be removed pretty easily.

The trunnion bearings are wasted, but they take a big beating and should always be replaced.

The spindle and washer damage is from running the bearings without preload. I would replace the washer and run the spindle. Make sure you have enough preload when reassembling and recheck after running it.

I would run the axle, simply under drive the seal, leave it proud ~1/16-1/8".

 

['74 UA FJ]

Any suggestions on how to remove a stuck hub seal?

With the spindle bolted on the knuckle(which is mounted on the housing), slide the rotor/hub assembly on the spindle. Screw one of the large nuts onto the spindle until all of the threads are engaged. Then jerk the rotor toward you until the bearing and seal come out. The bearing and seal will be sitting on the spindle and the rotor/hub will be in your hands.

Do not put the outer bearing in when you screw the nut onto the spindle.

You can wait until you get the knuckle and spindle back on the housing before pulling the seal if you've already got it all apart.

 

[Kernal]

Tools R Us: Thanks for the feedback. The spindle nuts on the DS were barely hand tight, I just put the hub socket on the nuts and turned them easily by hand. I have the Marlin HD seal, they said it should straddle the groove, but maybe I can underdrive that as well?

Any suggestions on cleaning corrosion off the spindle? Looks like others I've seen here, a couple spots of corrosion. I tried some 4-0 steel wool which didn't do much, but afraid to go higher, don't want to remove metal or scratch the spindle.

 

['74 UA FJ]

If it's just the inner bearing/seal, you can place the hub back on the spindle and thread the spindle nut(s)on then pull the hub toward you using the spindle nut to push the bearing and seal out. I've never done it this way, but seen several do it on mini axles with success.

I didn't read this before posting. But yeah, x2.

ardentyota; sounds like it might work, but would be concerned I might damage the spindle threads.
I have some FreezeOff spray, will try that next maybe along with heat and mounting it back on the wheel to get some leverage.

You won't damage the spindle threads.

 

[Kernal]

74 UA FJ: thanks for the suggestions, going out now to dig back into it. I decided to go ahead and use my new rotors and bearings so will put the old rotor aside for now. Being a frugal guy figured I could use the old ones for another 50K but might as well use all new parts this time.

 

[Tools R Us]

... I have the Marlin HD seal, they said it should straddle the groove, but maybe I can underdrive that as well?

With that seal there is no need, it will ride in a different place.

Any suggestions on cleaning corrosion off the spindle? Looks like others I've seen here, a couple spots of corrosion. I tried some 4-0 steel wool which didn't do much, but afraid to go higher, don't want to remove metal or scratch the spindle.

If it's just color, doesn't stick up, the new bearings slide on, I wouldn't worry about it. If you want to remove it, I would use fine emery or sandpaper. The spindle is pretty hard, to remove significant metal would require power tools or lots of work.

 

[Kernal]

Tools R Us: plans changed again, tried two different cordless impact wrenches (max 200ftlb) but neither could budge the hub bolts, so back to putting the used rotors back on (they have maybe 50K miles left on them) and reusing the wheel bearings, can always come back later to do that when I have a better impact wrench (got no air compressor). The used Timken wheel bearings and races look OK to my eye, the races have slight scuffing, but no obvious chips, cracks, ?brinneling, or low/high spots. Just one slight scratch on one of the races. See photos.

For cleaning up the spindles I have some of those 3M pads 00 and 000, I'll try one of those, but the corrosion spots are barely noticable to the finger.

 

[Kernal]

Wheel bearings reusable?

Few more wheel bearing photos. They both seem tight. Those are smudges on the bearings in the first photo.

 

[ardentyota]

Those bearings and races look fine IMO. Just keep them matched.

As far as the rotors go, when you need to remove them from the hub, hold the rotors in a vice and use a 3ft breaker bar to loosen the bolts. I know on my pickup, I had to put closer to 250ft/lbs of torque (estimated) to pop the bolts loose.

 

[Tools R Us]

Those bearings and races look fine IMO. Just keep them matched.
...

X2, they look great. On the rotors, if they look good run them.

 

[Kernal]

Don't have a vice. After getting into this job I can see how a solid workbench, large vice, a buffing wheel (to remove surface rust), a full-size parts cleaner, good lighting, and some air tools would make it all much easier.

Can we pack the birfield without separating it??

Polished up my spindle using progressive grades of 3M pads and elbow grease starting with 0, 00, 000, then finished with 4-0 steel wool. See photos.

 

[Kernal]

The rotor doesn't look bad to my eye, the inside is worn a bit more than the outside but it's got maybe another year left in it. I'll slap new pads in the calipers and call it good for my first front axle service, but I still have to get it all back together.

 

[Melloj123]

I recently had the same groove at the inner axle seal but did not have new Marlin seals. I took it to a machine shop where they turned it down and sleeved it. Looked great. $40.

 

[Kernal]

Melloj123; now you got me thinking. I can call one shop I know, but thinking I'll just put it back together with the Marlin HD seals.

 

['74 UA FJ]

The rotor doesn't look bad to my eye, the inside is worn a bit more than the outside but it's got maybe another year left in it. I'll slap new pads in the calipers and call it good for my first front axle service, but I still have to get it all back together.

Those rotors are good for much more than that as long as they don't warp.

Melloj123; now you got me thinking. I can call one shop I know, but thinking I'll just put it back together with the Marlin HD seals.

Put it back together with the marlin seals and call it good.



Next time don't worry about spending the time to polish the spindle if the bearing surfaces are fine.

 

[corsair23]

Kernal,

Did you get the rear seals out? I used the same tool on my axle service and the rear hub seals were a bit of a pain to get out...In the end I set the hub/rotor face down, supported on some wood under the rotor to keep the studs off the ground, stood on the rotor, put the seal puller in the right spot, and then smacked it with a 3lb sledge - A couple whacks and they came out. If that didn't work then I probably would have pulled out the dremel and taken some bits of the seal out to help aid its bending and releasing.

Those spindles look purdy after all the buffing

As to your question about being able to grease the birfs without separating them? I've read no...For sure you won't be able to really clean them out. I took them all apart and swapped sides since my rig had ~120K...Wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. Some helpful threads on here with links to pics showing you which way the star goes and how to get the balls back in etc. On the c-clips, I found trying to use a zip tie to hold and compress the c-clip to be an effort in futility and aggravation for me. In the end I followed the FSM procedure and used a small screwdriver. That approach took me about a minute per side to complete after spending a good 10-15 minutes farting around with zip ties

On the rotor and hub bolts. I've had success twice now inserting a large standard/flat screwdriver down through the vents to keep the rotor from moving while putting all my weight on the ratchet. I'd suggest measuring your rotors to see where you fall at with regards to the specs. IIRC max thickness is [STRIKE]18mm[/STRIKE] 32mm and min thickness is [STRIKE]16mm[/STRIKE] 30mm (EDIT: obviously my memory ain't so good ). If they are near max spec and aren't warped, clean them up and put them back on. If they were warped, take them up to have them machined now while they are off the truck. If they are near min spec, replace them and throw in some 100 series pads at the same time just 'cuz

 

[Pin_Head]

Don't have a vice.

What? No vices? No drinking, gambling, cussing or fooling around with fast women?

Get a big steel bench vise, preferably a Wilton. You need one to work on a lot of things.

Quit fooling around and get that job done so you can enjoy some real vices.

 

[Kernal]

Pinhead: I started off with only a few sockets and have been buying things as I can, definitely need some real tools. And yeah, I've spent a lot of time cleaning, degrease, polish, sand, clean, polish, degrease, repeat-----. Still can't get all of the old gasket off the drive flange, I think it may be the original. I'm guessing this is the first time anyone took the time to clean it up properly, sand off the corrosion at mating surfaces, clean out all the old grease, etc. The top trunnion cap was covered in dents from the last guy beating on it with a BFH. It probably wouldn't go in easy because the race wasn't seated completely which showed up in a race that was not worn evenly. Found some crud and corrosion where the top trunnion race sits, so sanded that out also. Strange, found a small 2-3 mm ball bearing (not a roller from the trunnions) sitting in the bottom of knuckle. Looks almost like the detent ball from a ratchet extension bar??

corsair23; guess I'll have to bite the bullet and pull the birfs off the axle shafts; tell me again how you got the clip back on/in the birf? I now remember the thread about using a large screwdriver, but had already pulled everything apart thinking my cordless impact would be good enough for all the bolts, but it wasn't up to the task. My next big purchase will either be an air compressor or maybe a Snap-On impact wrench. I did get the hub seal out, used a 30 inch pry bar.

I measured the rotor and got ~16.0 mm by adding the thickness remaining of both halves
Edit: remeasured the entire width and got a bit under 31mm total.

Here's a couple more photos, the trunnion cap after polishing off the crud and corrosion and a .20 shim also cleaned up a bit. It almost looks like some dirt got trapped between the shim and the cap or knuckle when it was reinstalled in the past?? OK to reuse the shim the way it looks??

 

[-Spike-]

Me personally, I wouldn't reuse that shim.

What's this about measuring the halves of the rotor and adding them? Did I miss something that someone asked? Usually you just measure the thickness of the rotor, that's the spec measurement as far as I know.

 

[Kernal]

Spike: do you know what should the thickness of the rotors be side to side, min and max?? Can't find it in the FSM. I'll see if I can get that shim locally, what problems could I have by reusing it?

Wondering also, when we put the trunnion caps back on, should we put some grease on the machined surfaces where they mate up with the knuckle housing? The FSM does not mention it but seems like something should go there to help prevent corrosion??