I don't know about the DVD; I just go by The Book (FSM). You don't have to separate the birf from the axle unless you want to swap sides or replace them. Just pack them with grease and be done with it.
My first front axle service in progress; got some questions
- Thread starter Kernal
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I don't know about the DVD; I just go by The Book (FSM). You don't have to separate the birf from the axle unless you want to swap sides or replace them. Just pack them with grease and be done with it.
- Thread starter
- #62
Tools R Us; the grease needle is a good idea. I had the same thought about a steel pipe after watching the PVC pipe bounce all over, too much give. After cleaning I let the birf/axle sit half upside down laying across a plastic trash can, figure any solvent should drain out or evaporate overnight. It is definitely degreased as now it doesn't want to turn easily.
Pinhead: In ElMariachi's front axle service DVD he doesn't separate the birf from the axle, just repacked it by hand forcing grease through the star and cage until it comes out on the other side. Think I'll save separating the birf/axle shaft for next time when I've got some more tools.
Edit: checked the birfs under a bright light, definite deep wear pattern on the star grooves where the balls ride.
Pinhead: In ElMariachi's front axle service DVD he doesn't separate the birf from the axle, just repacked it by hand forcing grease through the star and cage until it comes out on the other side. Think I'll save separating the birf/axle shaft for next time when I've got some more tools.
Edit: checked the birfs under a bright light, definite deep wear pattern on the star grooves where the balls ride.
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I poured the degreaser in the birfs and soaked them overnight; it did a good job of cleaning the old grease out. However, I was quite concerned about how to clean out the degreaser. In the end, I rinsed them very well with fresh water, and blew them dry with the compressed air and then sun dry under 90 degree temperature for a half day.
- Thread starter
- #64
wxm; The water flush sounds good, almost did that until I found a can of QD Electronic Connector cleaner laying around. I sprayed it into the nooks and crannies, then swished it around and poured it out, repeated that a few times. The birf is now squeaky clean but it's more apparent that there is deep wear on one side of the star grooves, and probably the same wear in the grooves of the bell I'm guessing.
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Kernal...
For some reason only the top 6th or so of your photo is loading on my end so I can't see the wear you are talking about...Here are some shots of what mine looked like. Pictures make the wear look worse in my case that it really was...You can see the wear marks but you could not feel the wear at all really despite it looking like there are some pretty deep grooves FWIW...
I'm hoping that swapping the birfs side to side will allow me to get another 120k + out of these...If I were you, I'd swap them...If done right and assuming no issues come up you should need to get this far into the front axle for another 60k + miles (less if you are OCD
)
.
For some reason only the top 6th or so of your photo is loading on my end so I can't see the wear you are talking about...Here are some shots of what mine looked like. Pictures make the wear look worse in my case that it really was...You can see the wear marks but you could not feel the wear at all really despite it looking like there are some pretty deep grooves FWIW...
I'm hoping that swapping the birfs side to side will allow me to get another 120k + out of these...If I were you, I'd swap them...If done right and assuming no issues come up you should need to get this far into the front axle for another 60k + miles (less if you are OCD
).
- Thread starter
- #66
Your star looks like it has a shallower groove than what I can see and feel on this one, but haven't got the birfield off the axle shaft yet, going to try again later today (after I pay my taxes 
). Here is a cropped photo of a groove that I can see and feel in the star. After sleeping on it I'm thinking this procedure really needs a special tool; maybe something that pushes or strikes the star all the way around at the same time, like a weighted donut or some sort of inside out or modified seal puller?? With the axle shaft clamped in a big vice the modified (large) seal puller could come from behind the birfield striking the star only, that way the birfield is held in the tool once it pops off?? 
Or maybe I'm overthinking this. IDK
). Here is a cropped photo of a groove that I can see and feel in the star. After sleeping on it I'm thinking this procedure really needs a special tool; maybe something that pushes or strikes the star all the way around at the same time, like a weighted donut or some sort of inside out or modified seal puller?? With the axle shaft clamped in a big vice the modified (large) seal puller could come from behind the birfield striking the star only, that way the birfield is held in the tool once it pops off?? Or maybe I'm overthinking this. IDK
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Don't try to reinvent the wheel. The pipe method works for many, and I use the drift-to-the-star method every time. In that method, my trick is to keep pressure on the drift after the strike. Since you got one apart you can look at how the clip is holding the star on the shaft. The star will compress the clip as you drive it off- but if the star is allowed to rebound the clip comes back out. I don't hit it all that hard, I whack it pretty well but I think the trick is not allowing the drift to bounce. A couple of good whacks is all it takes for me. The set-up is probably critical too- I put the axle shaft in a vice mounted (C clamped- anyone can do it 
)on a work table that doesn't move at all. The shaft is vertical, the birf hangs down over a trash can to catch it. I've never tried the pipe method, but it sounds easier as long as you get the right pipe. I'd probably stuff a rag in the end of the pipe, hold it in with some tape to cushion the axle shaft when it falls out, but that might be overkill. In any case, don't puss out- get that thing apart now that you've put solvent in there. And for the sake of your manhood. 
)on a work table that doesn't move at all. The shaft is vertical, the birf hangs down over a trash can to catch it. I've never tried the pipe method, but it sounds easier as long as you get the right pipe. I'd probably stuff a rag in the end of the pipe, hold it in with some tape to cushion the axle shaft when it falls out, but that might be overkill. In any case, don't puss out- get that thing apart now that you've put solvent in there. And for the sake of your manhood. - Thread starter
- #68
Spindle bushing and puller
Spike: actually don't have one apart yet, no time today to work on it but did pick up a 8"x 3/4" brass drift at NAPA and a 3lb sledge at Lowe's. I know a retired machinist with a dusty old shop who has a big arse vice, will pay him a visit tomorrow. Picked up this puller at HF; it seemed to catch the inside lip of the bushing but haven't tried to pull the bushing yet. In the middle photo you can see a tiny divot with a ?steel chip embedded in the bushing at 12 o'clock; it feels smooth to the touch but you can barely catch a fingernail in the divot. Seems to be a bunch of tiny divots or ?crevices in the bushing; is this common? The bearing surface of the birfield that rides in this bushing looks fine however, no scratches.
Spike: actually don't have one apart yet, no time today to work on it but did pick up a 8"x 3/4" brass drift at NAPA and a 3lb sledge at Lowe's. I know a retired machinist with a dusty old shop who has a big arse vice, will pay him a visit tomorrow. Picked up this puller at HF; it seemed to catch the inside lip of the bushing but haven't tried to pull the bushing yet. In the middle photo you can see a tiny divot with a ?steel chip embedded in the bushing at 12 o'clock; it feels smooth to the touch but you can barely catch a fingernail in the divot. Seems to be a bunch of tiny divots or ?crevices in the bushing; is this common? The bearing surface of the birfield that rides in this bushing looks fine however, no scratches.
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This thread is getting long, and I keep feeling like I'm missing things. Why are you pulling the bushing? Do you have the replacement bearing for it?
EDIT: Didn't see the second pic. I guess that's a bit worn. Also, I use a 1/2" tapered brass drift to get close to the axle shaft, not sure if it makes a difference. I'd guess putting the pressure close to the shaft would be better, but I've never tried it any other way.
EDIT: Didn't see the second pic. I guess that's a bit worn. Also, I use a 1/2" tapered brass drift to get close to the axle shaft, not sure if it makes a difference. I'd guess putting the pressure close to the shaft would be better, but I've never tried it any other way.
- Thread starter
- #71
Beno: Thanks, I understand everyone's frustration, sorry about the slowness and newb questions. To guys who have done this a few times I'm sure it's all second nature, to me it's like visiting the Grand Canyon for the first time, got to stop and look under every rock (in between work and family stuff).
But I am learning the value of doing it yourself and can see how previous mechanics either didn't know how this went back together or were just in a hurry, like stripped hub studs, not even hand tight hub nuts, star washer not properly bent to lock the nut, the cockeyed trunnion race and bearings never fully seated; it looks like someone beat the trunnion cap with a sledge to make it fit and that bearing pack now has a permanent list to one side (new trunnion bearings and races going in) . And I found a detent ball from a socket extension bar in the bottom of the knuckle, apparently it got knocked out when someone used an extension bar previously to remove races instead of a brass drift or punch. I do have the replacement newer style spindle bearings but was unsure if I should try to pull the old bushing??
Edit: anyone know the size of the ABS sensor O-ring?
But I am learning the value of doing it yourself and can see how previous mechanics either didn't know how this went back together or were just in a hurry, like stripped hub studs, not even hand tight hub nuts, star washer not properly bent to lock the nut, the cockeyed trunnion race and bearings never fully seated; it looks like someone beat the trunnion cap with a sledge to make it fit and that bearing pack now has a permanent list to one side (new trunnion bearings and races going in) . And I found a detent ball from a socket extension bar in the bottom of the knuckle, apparently it got knocked out when someone used an extension bar previously to remove races instead of a brass drift or punch. I do have the replacement newer style spindle bearings but was unsure if I should try to pull the old bushing??
Edit: anyone know the size of the ABS sensor O-ring?
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I would run that bushing.
Nope, but if you take it to a good hardware store, they may have one that will work. I would just put a little RTV sealer on it and go.
- Thread starter
- #73
Tools R Us: thanks for the suggestions. Haven't made much progress, but did find the same worn bottom trunnion bearings on the right as the left (first photo). Same uneven wear pattern on the upper trunnion again and very difficult to get out, looks like it was also installed cockeyed?? (second photo shows race). The outer wheel bearings also with significant damage; could that be from being too tight?? (last photo)
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