My Desmog Thread
- Thread starter fowldarr
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I started my Desmog today....well kinda. I was a little concerned about doing it but I decided to dive in thanks to fowldarr. This is my daily driver so I had to keep it in a running state. I started by pulling my air pump out. Took me a while to get out but nothing too bad. I got it cleaned up (I have some oil leaks) and on the work bench opened it up and looked in side I had no vanes! A good thing but I wish I had know before all the work.
Now I am not sure what to do next to keep it running I usually only get a few hours at a time to work on it.
Now I am not sure what to do next to keep it running I usually only get a few hours at a time to work on it.
I am getting close to finishing up my desmog. Right now it started but wouldn't hold idle. Does anyone see an obvious problem? All vent lines supposedly going into the air-cleaner are temporarily venting to atmosphere for now. Carb is desmogged by JimC, and dissy recurved by Mark's Off-road. Thanks.
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Nothing is jumping out in the pics. Well, a bunch of bright blue hose, but otherwise looks typical.
Is the ICS getting power and ground, i.e does it make an audible 'click' when wire is connect/disconnected with KOEO?
Lack of idle could be a manifold vac leak. Is the header and mani gasket install recent? Was the manifold milled flat, then the manifold and header flange spotfaced to be the same thickness?
Is the ICS getting power and ground, i.e does it make an audible 'click' when wire is connect/disconnected with KOEO?
Lack of idle could be a manifold vac leak. Is the header and mani gasket install recent? Was the manifold milled flat, then the manifold and header flange spotfaced to be the same thickness?
Jim: Thanks for your reply. I would have to check on the ICS. The header and factory manifold gasket are new. I suspect that is the leak source. The intake manifold was not milled flat nor the flange thickness checked. Hope I wouldn't have to unbuttoned the whole thing, but I guess I would have to do that after checking the ICS. Thanks again.
UPDATE: The truck idled very well now! Thanks again, Jim!
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Got mine finished. Took awhile to pull all the parts together. Prolly wouldn't have attempted it w/out this thread, and the increadible info provided.
Misc notes:
I had 3 loose manifold bolts
I ditched the HAI after im'ing with Mark W who said they often run w/out them in AK and no apparent issues.
The heat shield broke on dissambly (guess I rushed it), but JB weld to the rescue and good so far.
I have had an issue with fuel smell/tank pressure on hot days, and after trying everything recommended, I went to a GM replacement canister (it was super cheap, so no biggie if it didn't work). It appears to work, but like most things I suppose time will tell. Here's the thread from the 80's forum:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/412261-charcoal-canister-great-option.html
I had help & parts from:
Torfab – loaner dizzy, carb adj, once-over on the desmog, more to come...
Jimc – recurved dizzy and misc desmog parts
Trollhole - carb
SOR – carb cap
Cruiserparts – airfilter housing
MUD
Here's a quickie video of the test run a few days ago in the Cle Elum vally (Van Epps trail):
Van Epps sept 2011 - YouTube
Misc notes:
I had 3 loose manifold bolts
I ditched the HAI after im'ing with Mark W who said they often run w/out them in AK and no apparent issues.
The heat shield broke on dissambly (guess I rushed it), but JB weld to the rescue and good so far.
I have had an issue with fuel smell/tank pressure on hot days, and after trying everything recommended, I went to a GM replacement canister (it was super cheap, so no biggie if it didn't work). It appears to work, but like most things I suppose time will tell. Here's the thread from the 80's forum:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/412261-charcoal-canister-great-option.html
I had help & parts from:
Torfab – loaner dizzy, carb adj, once-over on the desmog, more to come...
Jimc – recurved dizzy and misc desmog parts
Trollhole - carb
SOR – carb cap
Cruiserparts – airfilter housing
MUD
Here's a quickie video of the test run a few days ago in the Cle Elum vally (Van Epps trail):
Van Epps sept 2011 - YouTube
lovetoski said:
Doug...where are you getting the non-US air box/components?
I really want that setup but am having an awful time with the parts....
Thanks and nice job on the desmog.
It took 3+ months to track down the parts. I got the "carb cap" from SOR. That's the metal part that goes directly on top of the carb. As far as I can tell, this is the key piece, w/out it you can't do the non-US air box mod. They told me it was the last one they had...but that was a couple of months ago.
The round air cleaner was pieced together. The bottom was from an HJ60. I got it from cruiserparts. I cleaned it up a bit, repainted mostly. The top I also got from them...it was a new toyota part. I don't have the part number on hand. Sorry...but I'd guess it might have also come from an HJ60. I assume (assumptions can get you into trouble...) that the round bottom from a FJ62 could work also.
The rubber hose...well that's my original intake hose, but I just shortened it to fit.
HTH.
Good info. Doug.
I was thinking of using an 80 series air box (legs can be fabbed for the 60 captive nuts in the fender skirt), 80 series intake hose, and getting the carb cap from another possible source (also thinking out of Canada maybe).
This is going to be a tough one. I am getting ready to put the engine and everything back together and would love to do this mod at the same time.
Thanks again.
-onur
I really like how this mod opened up room under the hood, and gives a less cluttered look. Also, I learned a lot about the emissions system in the process of figuring out what to keep, what to drop, and why.
Hope you can source the parts you need, and please post up pics as you do.
Also, if there's a better hose (part #) to use between the carb cap and the air cleaner housing, please let me know.
Well, if you can get me the ID/OD of the cap opening and the air cleaner opening, and the rough length of the hose, I can probably get you an OEM solution for it that will fit as it was meant to fit.
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Parts from worldwide EPC- air cleaner lid, corugated rubber hose, carb connector:
17705 CAP SUB-ASSY, AIR CLEANER
17705‑68020 CYCLONE 1 $221.41
17881 HOSE, AIR CLEANER, NO.1
17881‑61050 OIL BATH OR CYCLONE 1 $195.12
17805 CONNECTOR SUB-ASSY, INTAKE AIR
17805‑61010 OIL BATH OR CYCLONE 1 $310.60
17705 CAP SUB-ASSY, AIR CLEANER
17705‑68020 CYCLONE 1 $221.41
17881 HOSE, AIR CLEANER, NO.1
17881‑61050 OIL BATH OR CYCLONE 1 $195.12
17805 CONNECTOR SUB-ASSY, INTAKE AIR
17805‑61010 OIL BATH OR CYCLONE 1 $310.60
Yup. Got those numbers Jim.
Finding them is proving to be more difficult than I thought....
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Yes, it seems like the metal parts would never need replacing, so would quickly go to class F status.
It also doesn't help that they were also never imported into the US.
I'm checking with some sources in Oz and these parts seem to be difficult to find there as well.
I might be SOL. I really just need the cap.
The air canister from an 80 series can easily work, as can the air tube.
Back to the desmog talk.... Is it possible to run without both the HAI and HIC and without the VTV on the passenger side?
Running an HEI dissy, there is no need to vent the dissy and no secondary AC for HAC. So can these items on the air box just be capped without any ill effects?
Running an HEI dissy, there is no need to vent the dissy and no secondary AC for HAC. So can these items on the air box just be capped without any ill effects?
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The dissy cap vent VTV can go away. The HAI and HIC are not connected to the dissy and can be left in place for optimum driveability.
So do I keep the VCV on passenger side since no hoses ton he dizzy? If I do keep it, do I just cap the 2 nipples that run to the dizzy?
