It looks like your shocks are limiting your drop.... yet when your tire is fully stuffed there is a still quite a bit more room for the shock to compress. Meaning your only using part of the shocks travel. Why not adjust them so you can use more of the shocks potential? It looks like you could easily get a few more inches of drop out of the system.
Mojave Suspension System Build Thread
- Thread starter Bandicoot
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- Thread starter
- #182
More Shock Discussions
I really appreciate all the comments and thoughts but......I respectfully disagree with some of you on the shock issues or lack there of
I spent more time this morning pushing/ pulling etc. and see areas where the suspension is limited but not because of my choice of shocks or travel. Yes I have more travel left over on compression but I still have about 1" left in the extension of the shock, which for the most part is perfect because this will act as a axel limiter on the droop which is technically ok. There is considerably less forces exerted of the shocks under extension/ droop and is a common engineering technique. Yes, I could center it more but the work would be for nothing other than for looks. I see that the spring twist at the shackles and hanger ends is bound up, I've lifted and compressed the system till the opposite tire just raises of the ground and I've twisted the system till the rear tires are jambed up in the fender wells. So I can't see any other way to squeeze more flex out of her. I could possibly get more front end compression but it's very close to be maxed out. The spring pack has just a smidge of arch left, but for the most part is flat. The only other way to squeeze more I would need to invert the spring pack! This is not something I want to do anyway.
In the pics I disconnected the shock on the extended side and you can see how it expanded more. You can also see the twist of springs at SR hanger. Of course I always reserve the right to be a dumb ass
and miss something or an engineering issue, so keep the cards and letters coming
I really appreciate all the comments and thoughts but......I respectfully disagree with some of you on the shock issues or lack there of
I spent more time this morning pushing/ pulling etc. and see areas where the suspension is limited but not because of my choice of shocks or travel. Yes I have more travel left over on compression but I still have about 1" left in the extension of the shock, which for the most part is perfect because this will act as a axel limiter on the droop which is technically ok. There is considerably less forces exerted of the shocks under extension/ droop and is a common engineering technique. Yes, I could center it more but the work would be for nothing other than for looks. I see that the spring twist at the shackles and hanger ends is bound up, I've lifted and compressed the system till the opposite tire just raises of the ground and I've twisted the system till the rear tires are jambed up in the fender wells. So I can't see any other way to squeeze more flex out of her. I could possibly get more front end compression but it's very close to be maxed out. The spring pack has just a smidge of arch left, but for the most part is flat. The only other way to squeeze more I would need to invert the spring pack! This is not something I want to do anyway. In the pics I disconnected the shock on the extended side and you can see how it expanded more. You can also see the twist of springs at SR hanger. Of course I always reserve the right to be a dumb ass and miss something or an engineering issue, so keep the cards and letters coming
- Thread starter
- #184
More Pics Analyze This
Yes, I know I still have to cut the extended spring pack bolts Here some pics of the rear tire stuffed against the inner fender well and remember these are only 31x10.50's. And no I'm not doing wheel spacers
Two things I don't care for are wheel spacers and body lifts. I would do tubbing of rear fenders before doing the others. It worked great on my 49' chevy truck when I pro streeted it, don't see why it would not be a good choice here
Rear tires clear frame rails? The only other right choice would be to use wider rear axel out of?
Yes, I know I still have to cut the extended spring pack bolts
Here some pics of the rear tire stuffed against the inner fender well and remember these are only 31x10.50's. And no I'm not doing wheel spacers Two things I don't care for are wheel spacers and body lifts. I would do tubbing of rear fenders before doing the others. It worked great on my 49' chevy truck when I pro streeted it, don't see why it would not be a good choice here Rear tires clear frame rails? The only other right choice would be to use wider rear axel out of?
So to be clear......... You telling us at ride height, the front shocks have only 1" left to extend? If thats the case that is NOT enough. You figure that out real quick once you get it on the road.
If your point is to limit drop I guess that would do the job but I think when your springs get broken in just a little bit and you get some bigger heavier tires on there its going to want to drop quite a bit more. I would imagine with this system you'll get 7-8 of droop the way you have set it up. When you get offroad the odd angles will make it flex farther than you would think. I learned this the hard way. Looking good by the way. If I don't buy a boat I might have to add these to my spring over cruiser to make things interesting and get rid of half the body lift.
- Thread starter
- #189
Other Things I learned Today
10.50" wide front tires combined with 4" BS wheels the tires rub the shock body at full lock turn.
I put a stock 60 wheel mounted with a 30x9.50 tire. This combo cleared 1". So I am going to have to buy another set of wheels with stock or about 3" BS and use 33x9.50's in order to use max articulation and clear the shock bodies. This should help at the rear also. I thought about notching the Ford towers and bend more straight but that will cause interference with the shock body as it fits into the tower eye at the top and with the steering box u-joint. The Ford towers have added an unexpected twist to various clearance issues that I did not think would happen. So the experiment continues
10.50" wide front tires combined with 4" BS wheels the tires rub the shock body at full lock turn.
I put a stock 60 wheel mounted with a 30x9.50 tire. This combo cleared 1". So I am going to have to buy another set of wheels with stock or about 3" BS and use 33x9.50's in order to use max articulation and clear the shock bodies. This should help at the rear also. I thought about notching the Ford towers and bend more straight but that will cause interference with the shock body as it fits into the tower eye at the top and with the steering box u-joint. The Ford towers have added an unexpected twist to various clearance issues that I did not think would happen. So the experiment continues
I ended up modifying my steering joint with something much smaller to gain more clearance for shock placement. After the fact I think I saw that FJ62 joints are smaller from the factory so that might be worth looking into to see if the steering shafts (60 vs 62) can be made to interchange.
Been watching your thread here Bandi and I really like the flex you've got. As for tyre rubbing in rear and clearance at front shock body, why dont you just rum some rims with a custom 2.5" back space, push the wheels out wide and gain some stability as well.
I run a 4' lift in mine with 33X12.5 on a 2.5" backspace and have no rubbing issues. The idea of tubbing etc in the rear seems to overly complicate a pretty easy soloution to your rubbing problem. Keep it up, looking forward to seeing in action.
I run a 4' lift in mine with 33X12.5 on a 2.5" backspace and have no rubbing issues. The idea of tubbing etc in the rear seems to overly complicate a pretty easy soloution to your rubbing problem. Keep it up, looking forward to seeing in action.
- Thread starter
- #192
THX for the ideas! I was heading that way for the wheels, just did not consider going less than 3" BS...The other item i decided to do is going to weld on shock tabs onto the axel housing and remove from u-bolt flip kit. This way I gain prolly 3-4" of droop travel and don't have so much showing at static ride height. Plus will better angle the shocks.
- Thread starter
- #193
Back At IT
Got more goodies yesterday while I was on business
Been out of town and unable to work on the 60
This month will be like that. Gives me time to get more parts together to do the final push to complete. Got the surplus center ram and supplies for the hydro assist steering. Will contact supplier for weld in tabs to mount ram and shocks to axel. Also going to upgrade the relay and tie rods with 80 TRE's.Waiting for rebuild kit for 60 steering box rebuild and will start tear down of box to port for ram
Got more goodies yesterday while I was on business
Been out of town and unable to work on the 60 This month will be like that. Gives me time to get more parts together to do the final push to complete. Got the surplus center ram and supplies for the hydro assist steering. Will contact supplier for weld in tabs to mount ram and shocks to axel. Also going to upgrade the relay and tie rods with 80 TRE's.Waiting for rebuild kit for 60 steering box rebuild and will start tear down of box to port for ram
80 tie rod ends and 60 tie rod end are the same , strength wise. Both have identical thread diameter and
post diameter. The relay rods, aside from being a different style, also share post and thread diameter.
The tie and relay rods could definately be improved. Probably a bit light for hydro assist
post diameter. The relay rods, aside from being a different style, also share post and thread diameter.
The tie and relay rods could definately be improved. Probably a bit light for hydro assist
Hydro assist to turn skinny 33's? At least you'll be set up to go bigger later on.
- Thread starter
- #198
Steering Box Porting
Went after the spare 60 steering box I had in storage and tore into it
Was not bad at all. Followed Mace's porting thread
Got it cleaned up ported, painted ready to rebuild. Just waiting for rebuild kit to arrive. I have other parts on their way should arrive today this way I can finalize lower shock mounting location on front axel and related brackets/ tabs for HA ram.
Went after the spare 60 steering box I had in storage and tore into it
Was not bad at all. Followed Mace's porting thread Got it cleaned up ported, painted ready to rebuild. Just waiting for rebuild kit to arrive. I have other parts on their way should arrive today this way I can finalize lower shock mounting location on front axel and related brackets/ tabs for HA ram.- Thread starter
- #199
Shock Mounts & HA Brackets
Got my lower axel side shock mounts for the front end, and the bracket for the HA ram. The bracket for the HA ram will work perfect, it's really for a front axel track bar mount but works since I'm not using high steer and needed something that would allow a little lower mounting profile on the front axel. Looks like welding tomorrow
Got my lower axel side shock mounts for the front end, and the bracket for the HA ram.
The bracket for the HA ram will work perfect, it's really for a front axel track bar mount but works since I'm not using high steer and needed something that would allow a little lower mounting profile on the front axel. Looks like welding tomorrow
Need to rename this thread: "Mojave Suspension System on Steroids"