- Thread starter
- #141
Final position for spotlights and uhf aerial
Migaloo the white Turbo 80
- Thread starter frankenyota
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- Thread starter
- #142
Thought l would check my clearance for my Warn M8000 and found this
Can move the spotlight mounts out 10mm or try to rotate the end of the winch but think there’s limited space to rotate due to the intercooler.
Can move the spotlight mounts out 10mm or try to rotate the end of the winch but think there’s limited space to rotate due to the intercooler.
Thought l would check my clearance for my Warn M8000 and found this
Can move the spotlight mounts out 10mm or try to rotate the end of the winch but think there’s limited space to rotate due to the intercooler.
View attachment 3438761
Bummer! Lights position looks good too!
What about an L shaped mount for the spot lights to raise then 25, 30, 40mm to give clearance?
- Thread starter
- #144
Rotated the free spool lever first to see but it has to be right around the back which is hard to get too.
Also used my other M8000 with the rope which also has a different style handle.
Different angle
Then positioned the spotlights 10mm out towards the headlights to clear the free spool lever, think this will be my best option. Also looking at going for a different solenoid set up and mounting in a hidden position with the cable plug somewhere on the bar. And A coopers pale ale to finish the day
Also used my other M8000 with the rope which also has a different style handle.
Different angle
Then positioned the spotlights 10mm out towards the headlights to clear the free spool lever, think this will be my best option. Also looking at going for a different solenoid set up and mounting in a hidden position with the cable plug somewhere on the bar. And A coopers pale ale to finish the day
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Nice work. Good beer choice too.Rotated the free spool lever first to see but it has to be right around the back which is hard to get too.
Also used my other M8000 with the rope which also has a different style handle.
View attachment 3438780
Different angle
View attachment 3438782
Then positioned the spotlights 10mm out towards the headlights to clear the free spool lever, think this will be my best option. Also looking at going for a different solenoid set up and mounting in a hidden position with the cable plug somewhere on the bar. And A coopers pale ale to finish the day
View attachment 3438783
Get a coat of paint on this. I'm keen to see it
- Thread starter
- #146
Went and helped a family member with a outdoor table Setting and noticed a screeching noise while driving with a loaded trailer on the way home. It has been getting worse under acceleration so spent the morning removing belts checking bearings to find the water pump sounds worn and squeaky. So ordered a Trueflow water pump as its more available here in Australia then aisin, Trueflow are usually GMB japan made pumps and of good quality.
Two steps forward one step back, and to make things worse the hounds took off after some roos this morning so l see fencing in my future.
Hopefully get this bar work painted soon
Two steps forward one step back, and to make things worse the hounds took off after some roos this morning so l see fencing in my future.
Hopefully get this bar work painted soon
- Thread starter
- #147
While I’m waiting for my waterpump to come in l have been researching to upgrade the original warn winch solenoids to an Albright style one. This way l can mount it behind the bar easier than the original and being over 25 years old probably worth replace. I think my max amps for the M8000 is 445 amps, there is an option for a 500 amp model DC66 or the bigger 800 amp DC88 which might be overkill.
- Thread starter
- #148
Here’s the old solenoids
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- #149
Waterpump turned up and got it fitted this arvo. Due to the muppets at Repco the gasket had a small rip in it so put some extra 515 loctite on it to seal. Sometimes l think people just don’t give a damn anymore
Pressure tested the cooling system and all seems good, no more squealing coming from the engine. Still waiting on specs for the new solenoid and fencing tomorrow, followed by football grand final weekend’s so plenty of beer drinking coming up.
Difference between Toyota and GMB pump
Some damage from parts people who just don’t care
Pressure tested the cooling system and all seems good, no more squealing coming from the engine. Still waiting on specs for the new solenoid and fencing tomorrow, followed by football grand final weekend’s so plenty of beer drinking coming up.
Difference between Toyota and GMB pump
Some damage from parts people who just don’t care
I wonder if the fin count matters, because the new one has less.Waterpump turned up and got it fitted this arvo. Due to the muppets at Repco the gasket had a small rip in it so put some extra 515 loctite on it to seal. Sometimes l think people just don’t give a damn anymore
Pressure tested the cooling system and all seems good, no more squealing coming from the engine. Still waiting on specs for the new solenoid and fencing tomorrow, followed by football grand final weekend’s so plenty of beer drinking coming up.
Difference between Toyota and GMB pump
View attachment 3442060
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Some damage from parts people who just don’t care
View attachment 3442062
View attachment 3442063
- Thread starter
- #151
Good eye l did noticed that, not sure if size of blades vs the number of blades will make a difference or pumps are made on flow design?
I assume some engineering has gone into the design, guess l will find out if the temps are different to what l run now.
I assume some engineering has gone into the design, guess l will find out if the temps are different to what l run now.
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- #152
Spent the last few days prepping the bull bars for the 80 series and the modified bar l built for the HJ47 for raptor coat. Epoxy primer and black raptor finish, hopefully it’s as tough as they say. When l went to get the raptor ready l found the hardner had gone off and it wasn’t even opened l have had poor experiences with raptor hardner once opened it doesn’t last but never with a tin not unopened. The 4 litre kit was replaced by the Upol rep which was great. I used two bottles to do both bars, that gave me two coats.
l have had poor experiences with raptor hardner once opened it doesn’t last but never with a tin not unopened. The 4 litre kit was replaced by the Upol rep which was great. I used two bottles to do both bars, that gave me two coats.
- Thread starter
- #153
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Spent the last few days prepping the bull bars for the 80 series and the modified bar l built for the HJ47 for raptor coat. Epoxy primer and black raptor finish, hopefully it’s as tough as they say. When l went to get the raptor ready l found the hardner had gone off and it wasn’t even opened
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View attachment 3495367
View attachment 3495368
View attachment 3495369
View attachment 3495370
Looks good! I like it
- Thread starter
- #155
Got the 2F carby on the FJ40 rebuilt and tuned, running a heap better now. So decided to mock up my rear bar and start tacking it together. Spent the last few days sweating my ass off getting this thing together. Still need to order some axle stubs for the wheel carriers and some latches. Will build the tyre carrier and jerry can holder once the bar is completed.
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- Thread starter
- #156
Then l found the centre bolt support had rust and l wasn’t happy to just bolt it up knowing l want to tow some heavy loads down the road.
View from inside the rear crossmember.
Thick chunks of rust
I will make a new support piece to mount the bolts to and reweld it in.
View from inside the rear crossmember.
Thick chunks of rust
I will make a new support piece to mount the bolts to and reweld it in.
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Is there a towbar behind that or do you intend just mounting a tow hitch into the rear bar? I wouldn't go relying on that centre section to take much weight. Factory and OEM towbars utilise both longitudinal chassis rails.
For the rear bar swingouts are you dropping the bearing carrier into the bar? It makes for a neater job and you don't have the spindles/stub axles poking up (and blocking tail lights) with the carriers removed. Plus, it's easier to make up new swingouts using square stub axles
For the rear bar swingouts are you dropping the bearing carrier into the bar? It makes for a neater job and you don't have the spindles/stub axles poking up (and blocking tail lights) with the carriers removed. Plus, it's easier to make up new swingouts using square stub axles
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- #158
The design has the swing out stub axles into the bar and supports underneath. I had the plans given to me by a mate and had the steel for the bar laser cut, still need to order the swing away stubs, rear lights and latches. The towbar has the centre mounts but also 2 mounts either side under the chassis rail, l just wanted to fix the rusted section now rather than later after more damage has been done. There is a RH tyre carrier and LH jerry can holder, below is a picture of the finished design
Got the rear support section made and welded in then fitted the front piece, made from 3mm plate like the originals. And the finished product
Got the rear support section made and welded in then fitted the front piece, made from 3mm plate like the originals. And the finished product
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- Thread starter
- #159
Saw this old 55 Iron pig at a local pub while we were having a few beers, old mate told me they were looking for a 60 series but found this cut down 55 locally, now just a garden ornament.
Why?!
I saw a hj47 set up on a rock pile similar to this with the tray loaded up with potted plants