Meet Moose, our 1969 FJ55 (2 Viewers)

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Ok, so I got the old gear out, but need to get a new o-ring for the drive, but I can at least get the housing and get the e-brake back on but either need the gasket or to use some sealant. Would this stuff work for sealing the housing to the back of the case?

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Thoughts?
 
Was yours leaking? The speedo housing has a single seal. @Mudrak takes that and machines the front and ads a second seal.

Speedy sleeves don’t work back there.

If you button it up and it still leaks that need to be the next step.
 
Was yours leaking? The speedo housing has a single seal. @Mudrak takes that and machines the front and ads a second seal.

Speedy sleeves don’t work back there.

If you button it up and it still leaks that need to be the next step.


E-brake was full of goo. I got a double seal from @65swb45 and I'm swapping the Speedo gear and such to the new housing so I can put it back together. Didn't realize that I'd need a new gasket and that little o-ring for the gear shaft, so I gotta get those so I can put it back together. At this point, I'm just gonna call @cruiseroutfit and see if they can get me the misc bits I need to get it back in there. Had lots going on with the fam the last couple weeks so time has been at a premium.
 
Talked to Brice (sp?) @cruiseroutfit today and have a Speedo gear kit and gasket set on the way. Stopped by the Freight of Harbors this afternoon and picked up a 1 ton Arbor Press to use for the U-joints. I think the only thing I lack, other than putting the floor back in is figuring out whats size vacuum hoses I cut loose from the t-case when I dropped it... Meant to get those off while I had it out, but didn't so now I get to do it with the case in the truck...
 
Finally got some time in the garage.

Installed the new Speedo gear in the dual seal housing. Had some extra o-rings left over. Guess maybe they are for different year housings.

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I swapped the old sleeve onto rhe new gear shaft cause the new one wouldn't fit in the collar.
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Rebuilt E-brake went back on

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Greased up the snout and popped it back in. Good thing I got the new housing as the snout is grooved so, it would have leaked.

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Then I turned to the u-joints on the rear shaft... I liked to have never got the old caps pushed out, but finally got them. Based on how floppy the remaining joint is, they were due.

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Just have to finish the other joint and then I should be ready to see if the clutch job was a success. Hooe to take a spin around the block tomorrow if all goes well.
 
Second U-joint put up a hell of a fight, but between the air cut-off and the grinder I won in the end...

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Finished up the joint, installed it with new hardware from @cruiseroutfit

Fired up and backed out into the daylight for the first time in close to 6 months..

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Took him to the end of the driveway and back (about a half mile) and the only thing I'll say is that I need to adjust the throw on the clutch slave to make sure I'm getting full dis-engagement, otherwise all is grand.

Went ahead and pulled the old seat out, cleaned underneath and threw in the one I picked up at Swine Soirée last fall. Much better.

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The old seat frame and springs are solid, just needs new backing, foam and some fresh vinyl to go with my hiny heaters from @FJ60Cam
 
Found what I think are the jack brackets under the seat. What kind of jack was under there? I have this old FJ40 jack, but this doesnt look right.

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Still have plenty to do to get it ready to put some miles on, but just getting it moving under its own power is a HUGE step in the right direction. The old KM's dont have much cracking on them, so for now I'm gonna rock them out. New tars will come soon enough, but for now, getting miles on it to shake things out is the main thing.

@wngrog is the BLO applied only to rusty places, or do you oil up er'thing?
 
Found what I think are the jack brackets under the seat. What kind of jack was under there? I have this old FJ40 jack, but this doesnt look right.

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Still have plenty to do to get it ready to put some miles on, but just getting it moving under its own power is a HUGE step in the right direction. The old KM's dont have much cracking on them, so for now I'm gonna rock them out. New tars will come soon enough, but for now, getting miles on it to shake things out is the main thing.

@wngrog is the BLO applied only to rusty places, or do you oil up er'thing?

I like a CLR scrub and BLO on the rusty stuff and light coat rubbed off on paint.

Smoke those cancer holes and everything underneath with Fluid Film
 
Baby steps. 2 mile round trip tonight. All went well.

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Still have to hook up the new e-brake cable and swap in the new Speedo cable, replace the vacuum lines on the t-case, put the floor back in, install door cards, ... well, there is more than I care to list, but it runs and drives and I'm gonna start putting some miles on it and fixing things up as needed.
 
2 miles. Come on man. Breaking in a Pig is nothing until you ride the strap home

Can't go too far yet, no tags and no insurance yet. Speaking of how do you guys insure your pigs? I'm thinking of looking into a stated value or agreed value type of policy since on paper it probably wouldn't book for half what I paid for it.
 
Lol, well this will be #6 for us, 2 of the 5 current are liability only, 2 full an 1 somewhere in between. My insurance agent loves me
 
If you have a garage, Hagerty will do relatively cheap stated value policies. They might not even ask about the garage, but I think that is a requirement. Pig body parts are way too hard to come by to be under-insured. I think i have mine at $7k (the min I think its worth) for less than $100 a year.
 
Added a parts pig to the herd yesterday. Gonna rob a few parts off of it and then probably part with some of it. 1971, complete as far as I can tell. Non-runner, no title.

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@wngrog who was the door hinge guy? I need to get these off and sent out for rebuild.
 
Erin has been busy today. Apparently swapping a pig dash is a PITA, but patience and small hands yielded a beautiful result.

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So may have to go EFI sooner than later. Drove it a few miles to a bon-fire tonight and the intake got so hot that it was boiling the fuel and caused some dieseling upon shut off and the engine has to cool down before I can restart it. The Weber carb setup uses the aluminum adapter plates, so heat transfer is the issue. Stock it would of had that non-conductive spacer, and now I see why. Any input on how to help that out so I can run it for now would be great, cause as it stands, I can't make a quick trip in it because if I shut it off I'll have to let it cool before I can start it back up.

Other than that, all was good. Gonna slowly increase the miles over the next few weeks.
 

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