I installed the Switch Doctor master switch panel in my Cruiser about two years ago and it has worked just fine. I haven't tried to install the "auto up" diode mod and don't know if it can be done.
Master PWR window switch solution
- Thread starter pnolanIH8MUD
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yep, mine has been great too considering it was $38............circuitry so different I never tried to auto up mod it...........I do think its different design is responsible for my keyless entry/alarm not working though......at some point I will dig out one of the two failed oem switches and plug one in and see if the keyless comes back
How much time/effort does it take to swap out the old master window switch with a new OEM replacement?
truthdetector
GOLD Star
About 5 minutes.
I've been running the switch doctor replacement unit for two years now. My window used to stop intermittently on its way up so that's the reason for replacement. The switchdoctor units are solid state, I think and has no means of opening up for the auto window up mod, that I can tell.
The thing, the window is back to stopping randomly on its way up once again, and I"m not sure if I want to blame the replacement master switch panel. just yet. The window motor was replaced from another vehicle from the junk yard and the rubber tracks are newish (less than 5 years old).
I'll play with it this weekend to see if I learn anything. I see below that the auto down position relies on a current overload in order to cancel out the auto down mode. I'm curious if there's a current overload condition happening during the up position causing the motor to be stopped.
The thing, the window is back to stopping randomly on its way up once again, and I"m not sure if I want to blame the replacement master switch panel. just yet. The window motor was replaced from another vehicle from the junk yard and the rubber tracks are newish (less than 5 years old).
I'll play with it this weekend to see if I learn anything. I see below that the auto down position relies on a current overload in order to cancel out the auto down mode. I'm curious if there's a current overload condition happening during the up position causing the motor to be stopped.
Grab the window and lift up on it when it stops, while continuing to hold the switch. At least that will tell you if the current has been cut off.
Which window is stopping?
Can confirm the master window switches off some other 90s Toyota sedans are seemingly identical. I have a couple extras from the junkyard if anyone wants an OE replacement
Uh yea it’s already been detailed in this thread dude, but very nice of you. lol
Given how often I use it, I just bought a new one. I see little logic replacing old with old. My time and energy well worth the $140.
Amazing it’s still available.
84820-35010 for my 1997. Thanks, thread!
where for $140? I see knock-offs for $32, but OEM for $320.
84820-35010 Genuine Toyota Master Switch Assy Power Window Regulator OEM | eBay
We are happy to take care of all your Genuine parts and accessory needs. We specialize in Japanese Auto Spare Parts: Toyota / Lexus, Nissan / Infiniti, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Suzuki. Genuine OEM Parts.
www.ebay.com
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More like $160 but yeah84820-35010 Genuine Toyota Master Switch Assy Power Window Regulator OEM | eBay
We are happy to take care of all your Genuine parts and accessory needs. We specialize in Japanese Auto Spare Parts: Toyota / Lexus, Nissan / Infiniti, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Suzuki. Genuine OEM Parts.www.ebay.com
More like $140 but yea
Ah nice. I’m surprised they’d only charge that little for shipping. In my experience it usually ends up being more. But still less than $160
Excellent reply. Yup, I help it go upward and it usually goes up all the way. So, this makes me think that there's a drag on the motor or something. The rubber runners are less than five years old, and the motor came from another vehicle. Also, the master switch panel is from Amazon, looks to me mostly TTL logic vs the OEM analog stuff.
Driver window is the only one that has this issue.
Where do the 2 larger springs go