Master PWR window switch solution

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Joined
Jun 13, 2011
Threads
40
Messages
240
Location
Austin, TX
Website
activthrust.com
I've been having trouble with my master power window switch system. I know it's a switch problem so I open it up (against Dan's warning about the springs and other parts falling out).

You remove the switch assembly first by popping the front of the switch out with a wide thin screwdriver or putty knife. Then you remove the switch connector by pushing down the retaining clip.

Clean all the contacts on both sides.

Then turn the switch upside down and remove the screws and separate the trim bezel from the switch. Then remove the screws that hold the top of the switch to the bottom of the switch but DON'T separate the halves until you turn the switch upright over a well lit table.

Once you open the top plastic, you will be dealing with small aluminum switch rocker contacts, two small springs and likely the master window power switch. The master power window switch is probably the trickiest little part. It rises up and down in a channel. On the front side of the switch is a small spring that is anchored on a post. The short end goes up top in the recessed area and the longer end travels up and down a small channel to allow the lock/unlock feel. Likely that you will have to put that back on but it's easy after a few tries. Once that's on, you just make sure the contact pins on the opposite side are pushed in enough to slide inside the channel.

Clean all the contacts, try a little di-electric grease on the contacts if you're have been arcing.

My biggest challenge has been the mechanical switch on the driver side door. It consists of an electro-magnet that engages when the switch is pushed down. Upon reaching the bottom, it releases (supposedly). I had a tough time making this work and realized that there is wear on the switch that doesn't allow it to engage the switch. One way I fixed this was to shave the tabs off the back of the toggle switch (carefully remove the clip from the small axle on the switch to do this and slide out the axle enough to release the switch cap.).

With all of your contacts clean, you'll have the best chance of saving some big dollars, reassemble and test.
 
BamaPaul, it's a pretty easy job if you are patient. Pull it apart over a shallow box or something if you are worried about losing small parts.

Watch out for that lock/unlock button. It was a bit of a b@stard the first time through. :doh:

This is a one :banana: job IMHO unless you have groovy shag carpeting or lots of *stuff* in your work area for small parts to hide in.
 
hawaiicruz said:
When you take the switch apart make sure the window lock switch stays in one piece, that thing is a bugger to put back together

Had to take my switch apart again. Seems lots of arcing is blackening the contacts. I tried dielectric grease first time but it didn't work very well. Any other ideas?
 
How did you clean the contacts? I have used pink erasers to clean many kinds of electrical contacts and connections with great success. True story.

Do some contacts get more scorched than others?

It coulb be possible that there is a connection to the current draw on the window motors. Maybe this is a dumb question, but have you tried cleaning and lubing the window mechanisms and the window rails?

Any thoughts from those with more experience?
 
While yall have them apart, you should do the auto up mod.
 
Been there done that too many times to think about :bang:

The contacts are tungsten tipped and once worn, the underlying material (looks like copper) gets chewed very quickly by arcing.

Spare yourself the ulcer and buy a new panel.

PS The "electro-magnet " is a solenoid and it's function is solely for the one-touch up/down.

PPS If you're going to try recon, then make sure the contacts are perfectly alligned by bending the copper "arms" ever so slightly. But believe me, you will have that panel open again in a month or two:mad:
 
What $50 sourse

care to share that souorce?
Ditto, on the sourse. I have not been able to find a used one locally and hate spending $ on a new one if there is an option.
 
Auto up/down

2 of my other cars have an auto up&down function on all the windows. I really like it. Wonder if a set of switches from say a Prius could be fitted into the 80? Lighted switches would be nice too. Anyone thought about doing this?

jt
 
Switch Doctor

I have had the same ongoing problem of cleaning the master contacts and not working after a while or after a dusty wheeling trip. Pull it aprt and there is alot of arching again.

Well I did some more searching here and found a reference to Switch Doctor from another link. They have many master switches for toyotas that from the pictures look identical from many models (rav 4, 4runner, camary, etc.) but the part #'s are different for each. I did not call them and just ordered the 96-97 version $55 which is a different part # from 91-95. Will post up when recieved installed and tested.

Of course I am still looking for a replacment $5 motor (like the 100 series guys are using) for a second faulty door lock actuator. I may just call Dan and order an original part. Still seems stupid to replace the whole unit because of a $5 hobby motor with worn out brushes.
 
BamaPaul, it's a pretty easy job if you are patient. Pull it apart over a shallow box or something if you are worried about losing small parts.

Watch out for that lock/unlock button. It was a bit of a b@stard the first time through. :doh:

This is a one :banana: job IMHO unless you have groovy shag carpeting or lots of *stuff* in your work area for small parts to hide in.

get a xtra large freezer bag, disassemble inside the clear bag, cant lose the small parts this way.....
 
New Master Window Swich installed

Well I got the new master window switch from Switch Doctor,($58 shipped). Came very fast within 3 days. Installed in less than 2 minutes. Actually took longer to unrap. Compared to the original it appears to be a bit cheaper plastics and castings used, not as tight as the original but worked great. It fit perfectly with the exception that the buttons seem a bit lowerr in the arm rest plastic, but works. The window seem to open and close faster (or my imagination to make me feel money was well spent) The door lock activated with much more authority than before. Now lets see how long it lasts. Hopefully another 14 years.
 
IIRC someone mentioned that the master door switch for certain model years of 80 series is exactly the same as for certain years of Camrys?? Anyone know if that is correct?
 
Last edited:
Found this for part number 84820-35010, Master Switch Assembly:

Land Cruiser 1995.01-1998.01 8cyl 4.5L
Land Cruiser 1995.01-1996.08 8cyl 4.5L
4Runner 1993.08-1995.11 4cyl 2.4L MTM SR5 4D
4Runner 1993.08-1995.11 4cyl 2.4L MTM SR5 2D
4Runner 1993.08-1995.11 4cyl 2.4L ATM SR5 4D
4Runner 1993.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 4D
4Runner 1993.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 2D
4Runner 1993.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 4D
4Runner 1993.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 2D
4Runner 1993.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 4D
Truck, Pickup 1993.08-1995.11 4cyl 2.4L MTM SR5 4D
Truck, Pickup 1993.08-1995.11 4cyl 2.4L MTM SR5 2D
Truck, Pickup 1993.08-1995.11 4cyl 2.4L ATM SR5 4D
Truck, Pickup 1993.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 4D
Truck, Pickup 1993.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L MTM SR5 2D
Truck, Pickup 1993.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 4D
Truck, Pickup 1993.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 2D
Truck, Pickup 1993.08-1995.11 6cyl 3.0L ATM SR5 4D
 
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