That's a later model windshield frame, I think the original had a vent in it. That is quite an interesting project you got there! newer fender turn signals on the fender and the 2F engine.. could turn out to be a great hybrid.
Mars FJ40 1966
- Thread starter Mars
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I think the two lower holes in post #33 are for the driver's side mirror.
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- #43
I think you are correct. I have no holes on the passenger side. I’m planning to mount mirrors to the lower windshield bracket. I welded them over. I know where they are if I change my mind. 
That crossed my mind but the white threw me. Also, seems a little "chunkier" than most I've seen. My apologies to the canine!
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- #45
More filling holes. Are any of these factory? I know which holes the seats mount to, but I’m not sure about any of the rest of these.
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- #46
Also got my Real Steel parts in. Excellent quality and fit so far. This should be interesting. I’m missing a little more metal than I anticipated.
I’m missing a little more metal than I anticipated. 
CHU TOY
SILVER Star
If I'm not mistaken
#1,2,3,5,6,8 are not factory
The eyebolt between 2 and 3 is supposed to be in hole #4
The large hole on 7 is a factory but the small hole is not.
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- #48
Here’s the quick write up for the rear openings.
forum.ih8mud.com
Widening stock wheel wells - Real Steel
My wheel wells were trashed, so I decided to order the replacement rear pieces from real steel. They arrived after about 4 weeks, great quality stuff. Only issue... the PO saws all cuts were a little wide. I like the idea of having a little wider wheel well with the stock edge So what...
forum.ih8mud.com
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- #49
And removed the rusted rear sill cover. The real steel sill was about 1/4” to long for my opening. Otherwise fit great.
The structural member under was really pitted but cleaned up well enough for me. This is the worst rust spot in the truck so I can’t complain.
Ignore my terrible paint... it’s all going to get blasted off soon enough!
The structural member under was really pitted but cleaned up well enough for me. This is the worst rust spot in the truck so I can’t complain
. Ignore my terrible paint... it’s all going to get blasted off soon enough!
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- #50
Weekend progress. Spent a lot of time with the dash holes. I’m not certain where I’m going to lay out the all the dash switches so I filled it all in. I’m still stewing on if I can fabricate stock appearing ridges.
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- #51
Up next is stripping the doors down. Pretty much all of the Phillips head screws needed some extra attention from the grinder to get them to budge. I just cut slots in them with the angle grinder and worked them out with a big flat head screwdriver. Looks like my doors were spring green!
Passenger door is the worst. The lower side has some rust in the surface of the outside and the inside near the ridges. Driver side looks great.
Passenger door is the worst. The lower side has some rust in the surface of the outside and the inside near the ridges. Driver side looks great.
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- #52
Here is a trick that I learned from the YouTube. Instead of cutting out a patch panel and trying to butt weld, tack weld your patch right over the skin that needs to be replaced.
Then start cutting right along the edge of the patch panel but cut at a 45 degree angle and only about 6” at a time.
then as tacks release, slip the new panel down into the old metal a little at a time and re-tack it in flush with the original metal.
work your way around taking your time and keeping it cool and you don’t need clamps or need to worry about poor cuts or warping the panels.
Then start cutting right along the edge of the patch panel but cut at a 45 degree angle and only about 6” at a time.
then as tacks release, slip the new panel down into the old metal a little at a time and re-tack it in flush with the original metal.
work your way around taking your time and keeping it cool and you don’t need clamps or need to worry about poor cuts or warping the panels.
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- #53
Took my sweet time to keep it cool, and there we go.
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- #54
I want to coat the inside of the doors with something....does 'mud have a good recommendation? I've been looking at the Eastwood products and they look good. I still have quite a bit of scale to work with on the inside of the doors that I'd like to neutralize.
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- #55
Got some new cityracer 16” rims and Yokohama’s. 255/85r16. Really happy with the new stance.
To my surprise I don’t have standard lug nuts. Wheel bolts threaded into the drums. Is this normal for early trucks? I have one for sure that is stripped out. Not sure how to handle that?
Will these work safely with the rims?
To my surprise I don’t have standard lug nuts. Wheel bolts threaded into the drums. Is this normal for early trucks? I have one for sure that is stripped out. Not sure how to handle that?
Will these work safely with the rims?
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- #56
Spacers…
got them off after a lot of cussing. Each of the spacers were missing nuts. One rear wheel only had three of the six lugs. Yikes.
Now the tires tuck in the fender which is nice.
got them off after a lot of cussing. Each of the spacers were missing nuts. One rear wheel only had three of the six lugs. Yikes.
Now the tires tuck in the fender which is nice.
Nice work! I like the patch cutting trick.
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- #60
51 
51 holes drilled in this windshield frame
51 holes drilled in this windshield frame
