MANUAL swapped my 80 in FIVE days… Here’s how! (H152 swap on a 1hd-t)

[paymentchad]

There’s tons of info on this swap but I’m gonna put it all in one forum on the first page! No more going to page 3 then 5 then back to 3 to figure out what you’re doing. Also not here to argue about what transmission is the best for the cruiser, just laying out an instruction guide for a h152 swap. I bought a h152 with the input shaft already swapped.

Info about my specific swap:
1992 Toyota LandCruiser with a 1hd-t and a442f hydraulic
My trans was slipping in 4th and shaking quite horribly once I got on the boost, so it was time.
For my experience, I’ve rebuilt my 1hd-t and done all regular maintenance but nothing with transmissions. It seemed quite daunting being that it’s a transmission that doesn’t come in cruisers from the factory but it’s WAY EASIER than it sounds.
Let’s get into it!
Before photo:

Phase 1 (Day1): Disconnecting Everything

1. Disconnect batteries

Start on interior work:

1. Remove center console (Phillips screws all around it)
2. Remove shifter console (Phillips screws; there’s some connectors at the base of the shifter and they are a pain to disconnect! I used a pick to get them undone but I’ve heard squeezing the sides helps also)
3. Disconnect linkage from auto shifter via bolt on the side. (10mm bolts for the console bracket, I believe it was 15 or 17mm for linkage but)

Will come out like this:

1. Unbolt the transfer case shifter from the transmission. I reused this shifter even though it’s LHD (4 bolts 12mm, very easy to access; to disconnect the linkage there is a cotter pin on the side)
2. OPTIONAL - if you are lucky enough to have the blank plastic for the dash you could install this now. I have an early year so they are impossible to find, so I skipped this!

Interior disconnecting complete!

Engine bay prep:

1. Pop the hood and disconnect the cable on the injection pump from the transmission. (Loosen the nut and pull the cable out)
2. Pull the dipstick and disconnect the transmission dipstick up top (12mm bolt on the side of the intake; there’s two bolts holding it. The second is easier from beneath)
3. While you’re there, you might as well get the top nut for the starter as this will have to be pulled later. (17mm nut way down beneath all the engine bay connectors)
4. Disconnect one of two mounting points for the transmission cooler lines. There’s a bracket on the lower side of the motor by the starter. (I forgot the size, sorry)
5. Put the car up on a lift! (Or get down in the dirt!)
6. Drain the transmission fluid
7. Drain the transfer case fluid
8. Pull the front and rear driveshafts. You may reuse these but they will need to be resized. (13mm bolts and nuts)
9. Disconnect all the connectors on the transmission and transfer case that you see! I did 6-7 if I remember right. I labeled each one with tape on the connector and where it went. There’s a synchro on the transfer case! Be very careful with it and keep it clean. Wrap it in a clean towel or rag and tape it up. There’s also two connectors for the transmission that are easily accessible in the left side wheel well. There’s also one vacuum hose in the very top.
10. Disconnect the second bolt for the dipstick (12mm bolt and the left side of the trans)
11. Disconnect the transmission cooler lines on the right side. (22mm box wrench or if you’re fancy, a 22mm crows foot)
12. Disconnect the trans cooler lines mounting points. (Second on the side of the transmission)
13. Remove the transfer case cross member (4 17mm bolts)

Removing Transfer Case:
(you can leave it on the trans and remove them together but I think that’s CRAZY! Wasn’t hard to get off and less weight on the trans jack getting the old trans out, so I recommend doing it separate)

1. Support its weight with trans jack (strapping it to the jack isn’t a bad idea if you can swing it)
2. Located the 6 mounting bolts (17mm) there’s one behind a mounted connector, so I removed a bolt with the mount to get to it. Two of the bolts are on the transmission side and the other 4 are on the rear end side (there’s two shorter bolts so remember where they go!)
3. Pull it out! Easy as that!

Removing the Transmission:

1. Everything should be disconnected by now, so support its weight with the trans jack
2. Remove the dust cover for the torque converter
3. Place a 1 and a quarter inch socket on the harmonic balancer with a ratchet to hold the torque converter in place.
4. Remove 6 bolts for the torque converter, turning it using the ratchet for each one
5. Remove the rear crossmember (8 17mm bolts)
6. Remove the 10 bell housing bolts (17mm, you already remove the nut for the stud on the starter) one of these bolts is for the starter, so set it aside on the frame rail once it’s off. I used about a 3ft extension for the top two bolts. Being that you removed the rear crossmember, you can lower the trans a bit to allow easier access, just be careful.
7. Start shaking and wiggling the trans till it comes out. Shouldn’t be too hard. A little prying on the bell housing might help, just try to do it to both sides at the same time
8. BOOM transmission is out!
9. Unbolt the 8 flywheel bolts (forgot the size)
10. Remove the end plate bolt and end plate (12mm)
11. Remove old stiffeners if you bought new ones (4 17mm bolts total, two on each side)
12. Remove the rear trans mount if you didn’t buy a new one (2 nuts on the underside of the rear crossmember)

Phase 2 (Day 2) Fabrication and More Prep:

1. Cut the transmission cooler lines out! The disconnect at the left and right side on the bottom of the radiator with clamps. (Tried getting them out without cutting them and it wasn’t worth it) be ready for the rest of the fluid in the system to pour out

Transmission Tunnel Prep

1. Prep the transmission tunnel in the cab for the new shifters. (I purchased an OTC plate which makes life so much easier! Takes all the guess work out of it and has the nuts for the new shifter boots. For around 100USD it’s a no brainer. I had to cut the front of the bracket for the center console and trim the top of the plate to get it to fit properly. I used a plasma cuter for this but an angle grinder works just as good. The bolts you had for the shifter bracket now are used to hold the plate down. I had to buy 5 new bolts for the new shifter console at Ace. Just take one of the original ones and match it to a bolt and a washer.

(Have to make it several posts, being that it only allows five photos a post!)

 

[paymentchad]

Clutch Pedal and Master Cylinder

1. Get in the footwell and remove the HVAC relay. Tan box that is very valuable and hard to find. Two bolts and set it safely to the side.
2. Drill holes for the master cylinder in the fire wall. Most already have the center hole for the master. Pull the rubber grommet and use the gasket for the master to plot the holes. I positioned the gasket on there first and marked the top when it was level with a sharpie. Then marked the two holes and drilled away! Paint afterwards to prevent rust.
3. Install master cylinder and clutch pedal. Each have a stud that goes through to the other part. I put the master in first then went under and put the pedal on the stud and threaded it to stay.
4. Remove the coweling to get ready to drill the top mount for the clutch pedal. (Phillips screws along the engine bay)
5. Once the clutch pedal is tight to the firewall, you can push it up to where it’s supposed to be on the top. I used a punch and a hammer to smack a dimple in the metal that’s visible from the coweling. I drilled a hole exactly where the dimple was and it lined up perfectly. Paint to prevent rust. I also had to get a bolt from Ace for this. Nothing specific just has to be long enough to fit through the top of the pedal and coweling. Once the nut is on, seal that mf with your sealant of choice.
6. Reinstall coweling
7. Attach the master cylinder rod to the clutch pedal. Also had to source a bolt for this. I ended up buying a metric bolt kit that had everything I needed from harbor freight.

Rear Crossmember Relocation
(the crossmember needs to move forward about 70mm)

1. Find nuts that fit your bolts that came off your crossmember from Ace
2. The holes for the crossmember were already in my frame. Just had no capture nuts. Therefore, I used a uni bit (step bit) to drill out the frame until my fender washer with a welded nut on it fit perfectly flush with the frame.
3. Weld the washer into the frame
4. Grind until it’s flat
5. Paint to prevent rust
6. Repeat for the other 3 nuts
7. Next step in my opinion is optional. Use a sawzal to remove the two brackets on the frame for the rear crossmember. I tried this and the cutting wasn’t going well.
8. Re-weld them above the nuts you welded on the frame.
9. WHAT I DID: I left the bracket where it was. Re-welded what I cut. The front nut lines up perfectly with the center of the crossmember. I drilled a whole through the crossmember and only used the front nut. The h152 is way lighter, and IMO the absence of the 4th bolt won’t matter (hopefully)

Wiring

1. Cut the old transmission wiring harness a few inches from the box on the side. Every wire! There’s two harness’ and you need both.
2. The one with all the colorful wires is for your reverse lights. On mine (early models) Blue wire (reverse circuit) and Black wire (12V hot). Other trucks (later modes) Red with black stripes (reverse circuit) and Yellow (12V hot). These are the only two you need. Cut or tape back the other wires. My connector had all black wires, so look at the photo, and position it the same and connect them the same. This photo is from another forum.
3. The other harness is your neutral safety switch. Should be a black and white wire to a circle connector. Join them together, to bypass it. It will always start, even in gear so be careful. You can wire it to a switch in the cab for theft protection but it’s up to you.

Fabrication work done!

 

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Phase 3 (Day 3) Installation

1. Install new stiffeners on motor (4 17mm bolts)
2. Install end plate on motor (one 12mm bolt torque to 13ft-lb)
3. Install dowel pins on flywheel (2 total)
4. Install new flywheel (uniformly tighten 8 bolts in several passes; torque to 94ft-lb
5. Install clutch alignment tool
6. Install clutch disc
7. Install clutch cover (8 bolts torqued to 29ft-lbs)
8. Remove clutch tool

Prep new transmission if not already

1. Swap input shaft if not done already
2. Install bell housing
3. Install slave cylinder (2 bolts torques torqued 9ft-lbs)
4. Slide on release bearing
5. Install clutch fork pivot (35ft-lbs)
6. Install clutch fork boot
7. Install clutch fork. This took a min but once you figure out how it works, it’s simple. Don’t forget to grease all contact points and the input shaft.
8. Install the rear mount (2 bolts) the manual is slightly shorter than the auto. May not make a difference but my kit came with one

Installing the h152

1. Make sure the two dowel pins are either in the engine or the bell housing.
2. Fill the trans with 75w-90 prior to install
3. Disconnect the sway bar. Makes the bell housing much easier to maneuver
4. I placed an extension for the breather hose onto it before lifting it up. I ran it into the engine bay and mounted it up later.
5. Place it on the jack and get to work! We put it at a 30-45 degree angle to get the input shaft in the clutch cover then raised the back and slide it in. The trans wanted to fall of the jack every 5 seconds but the one time it stayed, it went in no problem. The floorboard will hit the bell housing and it seems difficult, and that’s cause it is! But after about 30 mins, we had it in. Also makes it a bit easier if the trans is a bit rotated and closer to the right side of the vehicle
6. The last centimeter is tougher due to the dowel pins. I had it close enough so I can install a few bolts and tighten it up to mate all the way. I recommend this method over pushing or pounding it in all the way.
7. Install the remaining bell housing bolts (53ft-lbs) I reused my bolts
8. Install the rear crossmember (6 or 8 17mm bolts)
9. Install starter (one bolt, one nut in engine bay)

New trans is in!

 

[paymentchad]

Day 4 Transfer Case and Master Cylinder Lines

Install transfer case

1. Replace your linkage on your transfer case with the new shorter linkage. (It’s closer to the manual than it was on the auto)
2. Be sure the dowel pins are either on the new transmission or the transfer case.
3. Fill with 75w-90 fluid
4. Put it on the jack and install it!
5. Torque the 6 mounting bolts and the one bolt removed for access to the mounting bolt.
6. Connect all connectors to transfer case, and transmission including synchro. Don’t forget the neutral safety switch in the engine bay!
7. Instal transfer case shifter (4 12mm bolts)
8. Connect linkage with coter pin
9. Install cross member under transfer case (4 bolts)
10. Measure front and rear drive shaft lengths and get them to a shop!

Install shifter

1. Install shifter to transmission inside the cab
2. Bolt up your new shift boot (5 bolts)
3. Install shifter console (4 Phillips screws)
4. Install center console (Philips screws)

Create/install Master to Slave Brake Lines

1. Install soft line on slave cylinder
2. Create hard line from master cylinder to the hard line. (Much easier than it sounds. I used a 60” line with 10mm fittings from O’Reillys and it was the perfect length)
3. Anchor then down somehow. If you ordered the brackets, good on ya. They don’t make one of them anymore but zip ties work as well! You can also get a bracket from other Toyotas if you find one similar.

Day 5 Complete Swap and Drive It!

Instal driveshafts (waited overnight for the shop to get them done. Typically takes a few days though, the shop wasn’t busy luckily)

1. 8 bolts/nuts for each (13mm)
2. Reconnect batteries

Enjoy the NEW transmission you installed!!

After photo:

 

[paymentchad]

Here is a summary of parts you may need for a RHD 80 series:


1 H152 transmission

1 Bell housing

2 block dowels 90250-08054

2 transfer case dowels 90250-12002

9 bell housing to trans bolts 91611-61045

1 bell housing to trans shorter bolt 91611-61035

10 bell housing to block bolts 91619-61245

1 bell housing cover plate (different from auto plate!)

1 main engine seal 90311-95008 (optional)

1 input bearing (on crank) 90363-15017

1 flywheel 13405-17020

2 flywheel pins 90250-10192

8 flywheel bolts 90105-12169

1 clutch cover 31210-60162

8 clutch cover bolts 90119-10205

1 clutch disc 31250-60401

1 slave cylinder 31470-60180

2 slave cylinder bolts 91611-B0825

1 fork pivot 31236-35030

1 clutch fork 31204-36110

1 throw out bearing 31230-60181

1 fork boot 31126-60050

1 manual trans shifter lever (NLA for RHD)

1 Shifter insulator boot and bracket assembly (NLA for RHD)

1 Transfer case shifter assembly with shorter tie rod

1 Center console with leather boot (NLA for RHD)

1 Shifter knob 33504-20120-C0

1 Front drive shaft (shorter than auto drive shaft)

1 Rear drive shaft (longer than auto drive shaft)

1 Manual trans cross member or reuse yours

1 Manual trans mount 12371-61050 (or get used!)

1 clutch pedal assembly (NLA new)

1 brake pedal for manual trans (just the pedal!)

1 clutch pedal pin (connection to master cyl) 90249-08018

1 clutch pedal bushing 90386-08033

1 clutch pedal locking pin 90468-16142

2 pedal pads 31321-14020

1 dash blank (early 80 series NLA) for later models (93+) 81860-12100)

1 master cylinder 31410-60372

1 master cylinder gasket 31415-60020

2 master cylinder nuts 90179-08038

OTC trans tunnel plate

Connector for reverse lights (optional)

Connector for cruiser control (optional)


RHD clutch lines:

31481-60711 Long line from master cylinder (NLA new, made my own)

31495-60050 2 way bracket mounted to shock mount

31496-60020 Bracket for line to slave hose

31489-60030 Line from 2 way to slave hose

96991-10080 Clip for slave hose on bracket

31484-60120 Bracket for slave hose bolted to frame

96812-50205 Hose to slave

90119-08701 (x2) Bolts for 2 way and line bracket

91611-B0816 Bolt for slave hose bracket

 

[paymentchad]

I went through Back 40 Imports in Kalispell,MT. He provided a compete kit for the swap with all new oem Toyota parts. The only thing used was the clutch pedal.

 

[TheBussman]

nice job!

 

[gripguru]

Nice writeup. I'm looking to use this trans with my LS swap next year.

 

[alia176]

Badass writeup, thank you very much for creating this awesome thread, it's appreciated.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Hell yesh

 

[alia176]

Imma holding out for a 6speed manual

 

[Mag71k5]

I went through Back 40 Imports in Kalispell,MT. He provided a compete kit for the swap with all new oem Toyota parts. The only thing used was the clutch pedal.

You have any gear roll over noise with your h152f?

Thread 'New H152f, identify the noise'

Nov 9, 2025

Hey all debating if I have to pull my transmission. Brand new H152F installed with new clutch assembly throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Less than 1500 miles on complete assembly. Noise goes away with clutch pushed in, comes back with clutch pedal released.
In low range, 1st gear, low RPMs
transmission seems very chattery.

H152f noise

Thanks

• Mag71k5
• Replies: 15
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

Its plagued a few members myself included.

 

[paymentchad]

You have any gear roll over noise with your h152f?

Thread 'New H152f, identify the noise'

Nov 9, 2025

Hey all debating if I have to pull my transmission. Brand new H152F installed with new clutch assembly throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Less than 1500 miles on complete assembly. Noise goes away with clutch pushed in, comes back with clutch pedal released.
In low range, 1st gear, low RPMs
transmission seems very chattery.

H152f noise

Thanks

• Mag71k5
• Replies: 15
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

Its plagued a few members myself included.

I haven’t. I watched the video in the thread to be sure of what I was listening for. I used all OEM Toyota parts. Mine sounds smooth but does fight to go into first every now and then when down shifting

 

[Mag71k5]

I haven’t. I watched the video in the thread to be sure of what I was listening for. I used all OEM Toyota parts. Mine sounds smooth but does fight to go into first every now and then when down shifting

Interesting, got mine from the same guy. Had the sound since day one, did you use everything from the kit. Or piece that stuff together yourself?

My next step is trying a thicker weight oil, but like you sometimes on down shift I have to be a little firm, especially 5th to 4th, or sometimes into 1st.

Thanks for watching the video to help me out.

 

[paymentchad]

Interesting, got mine from the same guy. Had the sound since day one, did you use everything from the kit. Or piece that stuff together yourself?

My next step is trying a thicker weight oil, but like you sometimes on down shift I have to be a little firm, especially 5th to 4th, or sometimes into 1st.

Thanks for watching the video to help me out.

Of course! I used everything he provided. I sourced things that weren’t related to the transmission. Just interior trim pieces mainly. What year is your cruiser? I’m reading that throw out bearing lengths are different for early vs late models cruisers.

 

[Mag71k5]

Of course! I used everything he provided. I sourced things that weren’t related to the transmission. Just interior trim pieces mainly. What year is your cruiser? I’m reading that throw out bearing lengths are different for early vs late models cruisers.

96LX450 with a 98 1hd-fte.

 

[paymentchad]

96LX450 with a 98 1hd-fte.

Interesting. Mines a 92 1hd-t. I’d ask if he remembers what part number he used for the clutch release bearing and clutch cover. There’s a forum about which ones to use for what year. I just searched “h152 shifting” in 80 series forum and it has all the info I’m referencing. Not saying this is the fix but worth a read if you haven’t already.

 

[Mag71k5]

Interesting. Mines a 92 1hd-t. I’d ask if he remembers what part number he used for the clutch release bearing and clutch cover. There’s a forum about which ones to use for what year. I just searched “h152 shifting” in 80 series forum and it has all the info I’m referencing. Not saying this is the fix but worth a read if you haven’t already.

Yeah ill take another look, im just not ready to drop the trans again so soon. Haha.

 

[paymentchad]

Yeah I’ll take another look, im just not ready to drop the trans again so soon. Haha.

Especially since it could not even change afterwards! Very frustrating, and wishing you the best to solve it.