here is some back ground on the problem...my 97 cruiser would turn over but not start...long story short my husband took it to the toyota dealer and this morning i was told that it would cost a minimum of 3000 dollars to get it fixed because I need a new main engine wiring harness...i that something that has to be done at a shop? this is my only car...i have 3 children and don't have that kind of money.
main engine wiring harness
- Thread starter 97cruiserlady
- Start date
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Welcome CruiserLady
Take a look at the main engine harness at the firewall, straight back of the valve cover and to the right just a hair. This is a common area for the engine harness to come to rest against the EGR pipe which causes the insulation to burn through and sometimes the wires too. Even if the harness is not visibly burnt the heat can cause the wires to become brittle and possibly break.
Another location some have had issues is where the main wiring harness enters the firewall at the back (front side) of the glove box compartment and goes to the ECU.
Quiz your technician on exactly what they found and where. I am NOT saying to take it back to them for the work. Just have them quantify/justify their diagnosis. He should be able to tell you why he suspects the harness with a good answer like I found a break, not just a process of elimination and the starter test good so this is his second best guess.
A search on here including EGR + harness/bundle/etc in 80s tech should yeild some good similar scenarios. Some have had luck unwrapping the harness, repairing necessary wiring and rewrapping with some heat reflective tape/tubing.
The harness is pricy 1100-1400 If I recall correctly, then ad toyota labor at 90/hr and it could get spendy fast. I would sell you a harness but it was damaged in removal so you may peruse the classifieds or make a wanted post to aid in your search for parts. Another member had a custom harness made for around a grand at a hot rod/performance shop so that may be an option.
here is a good thread with a pic of the culprit as well as several links to other related threads and fixes
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/218351-how-protect-wire-harness-near-egr.html
Good luck , hope this helps a bit.
Take a look at the main engine harness at the firewall, straight back of the valve cover and to the right just a hair. This is a common area for the engine harness to come to rest against the EGR pipe which causes the insulation to burn through and sometimes the wires too. Even if the harness is not visibly burnt the heat can cause the wires to become brittle and possibly break.
Another location some have had issues is where the main wiring harness enters the firewall at the back (front side) of the glove box compartment and goes to the ECU.
Quiz your technician on exactly what they found and where. I am NOT saying to take it back to them for the work. Just have them quantify/justify their diagnosis. He should be able to tell you why he suspects the harness with a good answer like I found a break, not just a process of elimination and the starter test good so this is his second best guess.
A search on here including EGR + harness/bundle/etc in 80s tech should yeild some good similar scenarios. Some have had luck unwrapping the harness, repairing necessary wiring and rewrapping with some heat reflective tape/tubing.
The harness is pricy 1100-1400 If I recall correctly, then ad toyota labor at 90/hr and it could get spendy fast. I would sell you a harness but it was damaged in removal so you may peruse the classifieds or make a wanted post to aid in your search for parts. Another member had a custom harness made for around a grand at a hot rod/performance shop so that may be an option.
here is a good thread with a pic of the culprit as well as several links to other related threads and fixes
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/218351-how-protect-wire-harness-near-egr.html
Good luck , hope this helps a bit.
I found the OEM part #82121‑60343 (82121 in the diagram below) lists for about $605, but can be had for at least $450 (this is an original Toyota part). So that leaves about $2400 in labor, even if they charge you full list price for the harness. At $75/hour, that would be 32 hours of labor.
I have seen it mentioned that it could take 6 hours to replace, so I would definitely find another shop (not a dealer) to do it, though I would get genuine Toyota parts (not from your dealer, but from cruiserdan here on ih8mud or one of the toyota dealers that you can find online). Or if you have an adventurous husband, he could probably do it with some help/tips from the forum here, if he wants to post any questions.
It would be good to hear more about the issues you are having, and how they came to diagnose it as the engine wires harness needing replacing.
One source for the wire harness from a quick google search: OEM 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser Wiring & Clamp - 82-02 927 Diagram 2
I have seen it mentioned that it could take 6 hours to replace, so I would definitely find another shop (not a dealer) to do it, though I would get genuine Toyota parts (not from your dealer, but from cruiserdan here on ih8mud or one of the toyota dealers that you can find online). Or if you have an adventurous husband, he could probably do it with some help/tips from the forum here, if he wants to post any questions.
It would be good to hear more about the issues you are having, and how they came to diagnose it as the engine wires harness needing replacing.
One source for the wire harness from a quick google search: OEM 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser Wiring & Clamp - 82-02 927 Diagram 2
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- Thread starter
- #4
the toyota service center said that the harness was resting against the egr pipe and that the heat from that was causing the problem...not sure if they opened the harness to see exactly what the damage was inside...he said something about possible crystalization...i do know that every time i tried to start my cruiser the efi fuse is blown...the dealer quoted a price for the harness at about $650 so the rest is labor...i am sure that my husband can do it...as long as I am able to find the harness
Call Beno or CDan at american toyota and see what thye have to say
Tell them you are a mud member and you get a discount on parts
The number is listed in the Vendor section
Tell them you are a mud member and you get a discount on parts
The number is listed in the Vendor section
Don't take it back to that dealer. First thing to look for, when you turn the key to ON does the check engine come on (it should). If it doesn't come on but the engine will turn over (the starter is turning), then your problem may be in the fusible links. They are a group of three short wires attached to the positive battery post. Here are some photos; second and third photos show the fusible links where they hang just behind the battery box and connect up to a black plastic junction box. This is something you or your husband can replace easily yourselves. The part costs $10-15 depending on dealer pricing. This might not be your problem but definitely worth checking.
Edit: How did you husband take the vehicle to the dealer; did it start? Is the problem intermittent? Any other symptoms? Rough running? Anyone know of a good cruiser mechanic in Washington? (what area?)
Edit: How did you husband take the vehicle to the dealer; did it start? Is the problem intermittent? Any other symptoms? Rough running? Anyone know of a good cruiser mechanic in Washington? (what area?)
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- Thread starter
- #7
thank you for all the help...i appreciate it...now its time to order the harness and wait for my husband to fix the crusher...does anyone know where i can get a detailed diagram for the wiring...anything to make this repair go smoother would be helpful...thanks again
cruiserlady; are you sure the problem is in the harness?? Have you been able to take the vehicle somewhere else for a second opinion? Many of us have had burned wires in the main engine harness and just got the individual problem wires fixed without removing the entire harness; that repair might only cost you a few hundred dollars for labor.
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Depending on how bad the wires are you may want to repair them. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...il-now-trouble-shooting-help.html#post3090145 Thats what mine looked like. I coated the breaks on the wires with high temp epoxy, let it dry and wrapped the harness in high temp material and secured away from the egr pipe. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...you-use-re-wrap-wire-loom-near-erg-pipes.html
No problems
I would suggest the added wrap even if you deside to go with a new harness.
No problems
I would suggest the added wrap even if you deside to go with a new harness.
When you get a replacement main engine harness in your hands - at the American Toyota price - it will be immediately apparent that it is one of the best OEM parts bargains in history. If a new harness is in reach financially, go for it, wrap it well with high temp insulation and never worry again. My 2 Cents. Mack
Wonder if the engine harness is made with updated materials or has any improvements compared to what they used almost 20 years ago? Seems like if this is a known problem they would include some sort of heat wrap or more heat resistant wire insulation??
- Thread starter
- #13
we haven't really had a chance to look at it yet...we are going to replace the fusible link because bare wire showing...there was no warning that anything was wrong...actually I think that there were a few times when the car won't start...it would only turn over and then i would try again and it would start...sometimes I could smell burning plastic but other than that no real warning that anything was wrong...i am looking at all the information that is on this forum regarding this specific situation and hopefully i will be back on the road soon...i have to be because i am tired of paying for a rental
don't discount an alternator issue with this type of symptom. how many miles on the truck?
Where in Washington are you? There are some outstanding Cruiser guys over here on the West side.
About | East Olympia CruisersEast Olympia Cruisers | Land Cruiser Parts and Service - Out of Olympia
Toyota Off-Road Fabrication | Home - Out of the Seattle area
Plenty of cruiserheads and mudders over here.
About | East Olympia CruisersEast Olympia Cruisers | Land Cruiser Parts and Service - Out of Olympia
Toyota Off-Road Fabrication | Home - Out of the Seattle area
Plenty of cruiserheads and mudders over here.
- Thread starter
- #16
okay so here is what happened when my husband finally was able to look at the wire harness...in the area where the harness is close to the egr pipe there was damage...but only like 3 to 4 wires with very minimal damage...my husband was able to just replace the damaged areas and once the battery was replaced...the cruiser is running fine 
...what if i would have listened to toyota and replaced the whole harness or worse yet...what if I actually paid toyota to do it...thanks for all the help and suggestions...i am once again a happy cruiser owner...also...i am located in university place, wa.
...what if i would have listened to toyota and replaced the whole harness or worse yet...what if I actually paid toyota to do it...thanks for all the help and suggestions...i am once again a happy cruiser owner...also...i am located in university place, wa.
okay so here is what happened when my husband finally was able to look at the wire harness...in the area where the harness is close to the egr pipe there was damage...but only like 3 to 4 wires with very minimal damage...my husband was able to just replace the damaged areas and once the battery was replaced...the cruiser is running fine
Awesome to hear the DIY, economical resolution. Good job!
Good job on the fix. The main harness that you were inquiring is not that hard to replace. The hardest thing is the plugs that go into the trans. I had to remove the starter and stuff. Not a good place to get into when you have big hands. They got all cut up. I think i had to remove the throttlebody as well. Congrats on saving all that money. You can use that on your kids. Aloha
I got big hands, the big starter, and the only issue I have with the transmission connectors is that I always forget how each disconnects.
Why it was necessary to have every connector detach a different way I don't know...
I'm considering replacing the whole wiring harness just because about half the connectors dont have their snap-lock tabs (the easy to reach ones of course). Although it hasn't caused me any actual trouble yet.