LX570 Check Engine & Check VSC stuck in 4lo and CDL engaged

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Joined
Nov 5, 2022
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I am at Windrock Park and was speeding around on easy parts of G1, then the Check Engine and Check VSC notifications came on. I was in 4 hi and no CDL engaged, but I couldn’t engage 4 lo. I googled once I had service and it seemed it might be a gas cap issue. I took the gas cap off, put it back on. Turned the LX on and off, then all good. Lights gone.

Fast forward a bit and I made it down to Panther Rock. All the lights come back on. At this point I am in 4 lo and CDL engaged. Thankfully I was, because if you’ve been, you know you have to climb out. LX performed flawlessly up a steep and challenging climb with obstacles. Remove and reseal gas cap, but this time, I can’t get out of 4 lo and disengage CDL.

I get out of the trail and try driving and disengage the CDL as I read online. Doesn’t work. I drive toward Windrock Park Country Store, but see Ginger’s Deli and stop to use her phone. I end up doing so and using some glass cleaner and take off the battery terminals. Twice. All the lights are gone but the flashing CDL, then I take it for a spin and it goes away. Hit the highway etc and it is seemingly fine.

Anyone know what is going on and what I can do to ensure this doesn’t happen again? If it does happen again, can I be sure that battery reset will continue to work until I can it to a shop or Lexus back home?

FWIW shout out Ginger at Ginger’s Deli. If you’re in the area, stop through. She was awesome, incredibly kind and helpful. Burger was great, had good selection of necessities.

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Thanks for the tips so far. I was able to remove the screws on the MAF sensor. I couldn't find where to clean except the rubber lining around the MAF sensor, so I just wipe off the debris on the rubber lining with brake fluid. Started the car, and all said lights are still on. I didn't disconnect the battery, should I do so?

I ordered a new MAF sensor off Amazon, should be here tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crossed the new sensor will work.
 
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Drove back home after work, ran a few errands (turning off car in process a few times). Finally on last leg back home, all said lights turned off. Wonder what happened?
 
Cleaning these involves a special solvent available at auto parts stores. I can't say I've seen anyone really needing to do this on a 200 though.. and I've been around a long time.

I wouldn't have very high hopes for an amazon MAF sensor, personally.
 
Drove back home after work, ran a few errands (turning off car in process a few times). Finally on last leg back home, all said lights turned off. Wonder what happened?

Your gas cap was loose, you tightened it, after driving a while the lights went out. The original cause of the lights was a loose gas cap.

And I agree with @bloc I would not trust a MAF sensor purchased from Amazon.

HTH
 
Not that you need a third vote for returning and NOT using any Amazon parts on your LC (as @bloc and @gaijin), but I'll throw my hat in too. You don't want to use counterfeit parts on your rig. If you do, you will inevitably be inviting future issues into your life. HTH
 
I bought a MAF sensor from the local Oreilly's. Was fine for a couple hundred miles then in the middle of freeway stop and go traffic all the dash lights up and the car stalls. Luckily I was able to limp to the side of the freeway. Replaced it with genuine Toyota part and haven't had any issue for thousands of miles. I hope it works out for you.
I ordered a new MAF sensor off Amazon, should be here tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crossed the new sensor will work.
 
This sounds like the dreaded "Moab CEL". It's worthwhile to read the codes if you can.

Gist is that it is a false positive emissions related issue. Often due to elevation, fuel, heat from crawling, or a combination thereof. Certain mods can exacerbate the issue. It's unfortunate, but the traction control and transfer case functions are impacted by what are really non-related CELs.

It's not likely the MAF. It's almost never the MAF and aftermarket MAFs are known to fail prematurely as others have pointed out.

If you're back home and things are stable and you're no longer getting the CEL, that generally points to this Moab CEL. The early gen 200s seemed more sensitive to these types of CELs.

Certain mods that change airflow, trap or reflect heat in the underbody, aux tank, can exascerbate the issue.

Recommend getting a wireless OBD-II scanner to keep in the port. IMO, it's a pretty high priority tool to have on hand for trips in general. This will allow you to read codes, but also reset these CELs in quick time to restore transfer case functions.
 
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