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And it's done!

I think this turned out great - I was able to keep everything tucked beneath the spoiler, so if you're dragging branches/etc on top of your truck you're not going to catch the light housing.

These are available now - I'll have a few ready to ship out this coming Monday morning (6/22), and then it'll be a week while I'm gone on travel for my day job - I'll put a note up on the website letting folks know that.

These have the normal options that my NIGHTHAWK products have - mounts for either Baja S2 or the AKD clones, and a selection for a Wolfbox camera mounting option or not.

You can check them out on our new website - make sure to use code 'Beta5' in the 'sitewide coupon code' box to get $5 off for trying the new platform! Let me or @MongooseGA know if you run into any issues.

beta.theartisangarage.com

NIGHTHAWK: 100 Series Landcruiser/LX470 Chase Light & Wolfbox Camera Mount | 1998-2007 — The Artisan Garage

NIGHTHAWK 100 Series Landcruiser/LX470 Chase Light & Wolfbox Camera Mount | 1998-2007 Whether you're navigating dusty trails with a group of friends or just want a better rearview camera mount if…
beta.theartisangarage.com beta.theartisangarage.com

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Excuse my poor marketing skills... But go get yourself 10% off through the weekend!

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Also - coming soon: Weld-together rear LCA bracket skids!
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@LJE Do you have a picture of the non spoiler version of the chase light without the wolf box mount (similar to the selected options below)? Is that designed differently than the version with the wolf box mount?

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terryscott621 said:
@LJE Do you have a picture of the non spoiler version of the chase light without the wolf box mount (similar to the selected options below)? Is that designed differently than the version with the wolf box mount?

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Hey!

The top center bump-out is a lot smaller since it's not housing the camera - comparison (in CAD) below! I don't have a real-life photo handy, I forgot to grab any before I converted my truck back to my MSS-L spoiler.

Non-camera:
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Camera:
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Hello Forum,
A couple of weeks ago I purchased the 2UZ-FE / 100 Series Fan Clutch wrench from Lumberjack Engineering / Artisan Garage.
This is a review of the tool.

I do a good many timing belt / water pump services and my least favorite part is removing the (4) 12mm nuts that hold the fan assembly to the fan bracket.
Until now I've used a mid-size prybar wedged against 2 of the nuts to prevent the fan from moving while breaking each of the nuts loose.
There's no torque spec for these nuts, so how tight they are varies greatly.
In addition, there's no super secure way to wedge the prybar, so it's not uncommon for it to slip during the process, sending part of your hand and / or forearm at a rapid speed into the fan.
I have a rather long 12mm box wrench that I use to keep my hand / forearm mostly out of harm's way, but even that isn't foolproof.

The 2UZ-FE / 100 Series Fan Clutch wrench removes the prybar / screwdriver slipping issue.

For fan assembly removal, 2 round holes in the wrench slip over 2 of the 4 nuts on the left side of the fan assembly (when standing in front of the SUV), allowing you to securely hold the fan assembly with one hand while you use your 12mm box end wrench to break loose 1 of the nuts.
You then rotate the fan assembly 1/4 turn, put the wrench over the next 2 nuts, and break the next nut loose.
Once all 4 nuts are broken loose, you can typically spin them off by hand. If not use a ratcheting wrench (or regular wrench...).

For fan assembly install, spin the 4 nuts on as far as you can by hand, then the 2 round holes in the wrench slip over 2 of the 4 nuts on the right side of the fan assembly (when standing in front of the SUV), allowing you to securely hold the fan assembly with one hand while you use your 12mm box end wrench to tighten 1 of the nuts.
You then rotate the fan assembly 1/4 turn, put the wrench over the next 2 nuts, and tighten the next nut.

Much easier / safer IMHO.

I'm glad this tool is now in my arsenal.
It can be used with any 4.7 Toyota V8 (Land Cruiser, 4Runner V8, GX470, Sequioa, and Tundra).

Enjoy.
Tom
 
Still have a handful of the first batch of the rear LCA skids! I'll be grabbing some more steel here soon & expanding to some other platforms as well - 4th gen 4runner, GX470,.and first Gen Sequoia.
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Also - anyone need some low-profile plugs for the holes in their hatch from an old black plastic spoiler?! These are printed in a flexible material & will keep those rivnuts sealed to prevent water ingress!
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It's been plenty busy around here - but got these photos back from a customer today! He's the first with some custom 3d printed rubber threaded plugs for the old spoiler/wing mount holes. I think I'll add these as an option on the website for folks that buy a chase light housing - just doing my best to help folks keep water out of their hatches!

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Fresh batch of parts off the laser & press brake early this morning! A bathrobe is *absolutely* the proper PPE to wear when running your fiber laser in your garage at 6:00am, but I digress.

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ARB Compressor mounts, Auxbeam/SwitchPro/etc engine bay mounts, seat front mount panels - oh my! Go check them out over at theartisangarage.com


(ps: I hear @MongooseGA is still working on cleaning off dross from the backside of cuts made with his archaic plasma cutter. Pfffffft! Laser beams are where it's at).
 
LJE said:
Fresh batch of parts off the laser & press brake early this morning! A bathrobe is *absolutely* the proper PPE to wear when running your fiber laser in your garage at 6:00am, but I digress.

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ARB Compressor mounts, Auxbeam/SwitchPro/etc engine bay mounts, seat front mount panels - oh my! Go check them out over at theartisangarage.com


(ps: I hear @MongooseGA is still working on cleaning off dross from the backside of cuts made with his archaic plasma cutter. Pfffffft! Laser beams are where it's at).
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Talking all that crap but you're happy to use my bathrobe trick. Mhmmm.
 
These were a customer request: spacer rings to allow the Fifteen52 center caps to be used on the front wheels.

There's already another product out on the market that does this, however, the design is incorrect. The teeth geometry doesn't allow the spacer ring to snap in properly, there's too many teeth & it runs into the hub studs/nuts for the drive flange, and it's just not tall enough (requires hammering the CV axle dust cap flat).

The fellow that reached out to me about this, Ray, had already lost 2x center caps because of the incorrectly designed spacer rings (and I've since heard from someone else who also lost a pair). He had tried to contact the manufacturer of the spacer rings about it but just got comms silence - so he reached out to me.

It took ~5 iterations to get it *perfect*, which meant I shipped him a new one each time to test fit, but it turned out great.
These spacer rings were designed from the ground up to mitigate all the issues that the other rings had - the teeth geometry is correct, there's only 6 teeth so you can "clock" it to avoid the hub studs/nuts, and it's tall enough to allow the center caps to clear the stock dust caps.

As always, these are made from a carbon-fiber reinforced ASA - UV stable & heat tolerant up to 220F. If the *center* if your wheels are that hot, please unseize your caliper. 😂

Available today over at TheArtisanGarage.com

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Talk about a blast from the past! Someone ordered a set of these LX470 headlight housing tail caps today.

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These were actually the first parts I designed & sold under Lumberjack Engineering - it's pretty infrequent that I sell a set these days, but it's cool to see the OG design getting some love.

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These reuse the OEM O-ring to seal to the headlight housing, and then the Morimoto Micro D2S ignitor grommet snaps into the exit port & seals everything from water intrusion. The caps utilize the same twist-lock tabs that the OEM tailcaps did, so everything stays secure while offroad.

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Anyone up for a discount?!?

I recently updated my design the swirchpanel mount for the 03-07 trucks to allow the use of the new Auxbeam KS80 - which is larger than any of the other Auxbeam control boxes. The new mount bracket is a little longer, and a little wider to accomodate:

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But, that being said, I've still got 3x of the "old" design. These are still perfect for any Auxbeam/SwitchPro/sPOD other than the KS80, and if you use the code "OLD" you can save $15 on the 'old' design! You can find them over here: Auxbeam/Switchpro Switchboard Engine Bay Mounting Brackets | 4th Gen 4Runner, 100 Series LC/LX, 1st Gen Sequoia — The Artisan Garage - https://theartisangarage.com/product/auxbeam-switchpro-switchboard-engine-bay-mounting-brackets-4th-gen-4ru

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Do you happen to have a pic of the old mount with a switch pro setup?
Thanks
Edit: I ordered. I will post up some pics once I have it all mounted and stuff. I have been dreading/postponing centralizing electronics for a while but this is the first piece of it.
 
Last edited:
LJE said:
These were a customer request: spacer rings to allow the Fifteen52 center caps to be used on the front wheels.

There's already another product out on the market that does this, however, the design is incorrect. The teeth geometry doesn't allow the spacer ring to snap in properly, there's too many teeth & it runs into the hub studs/nuts for the drive flange, and it's just not tall enough (requires hammering the CV axle dust cap flat).

The fellow that reached out to me about this, Ray, had already lost 2x center caps because of the incorrectly designed spacer rings (and I've since heard from someone else who also lost a pair). He had tried to contact the manufacturer of the spacer rings about it but just got comms silence - so he reached out to me.

It took ~5 iterations to get it *perfect*, which meant I shipped him a new one each time to test fit, but it turned out great.
These spacer rings were designed from the ground up to mitigate all the issues that the other rings had - the teeth geometry is correct, there's only 6 teeth so you can "clock" it to avoid the hub studs/nuts, and it's tall enough to allow the center caps to clear the stock dust caps.

As always, these are made from a carbon-fiber reinforced ASA - UV stable & heat tolerant up to 220F. If the *center* if your wheels are that hot, please unseize your caliper. 😂

Available today over at TheArtisanGarage.com

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Oh man these look snazzy, both the wheels and the caps. My wallet is frowning at me though...
 
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