Loss of drive problem. Front axle service?

[on3i11s]

Napa should also have the soft lines for you. I made some notes in another thread I read sometime with NAPA part numbers that fit the 80.

Right front #380231 and Left front #38796

The thread also listed #'s for extended lines.

Note that the above numbers will not come back to the 80 series but for other vehicles. If you take your lines in and have them pull the above numbers I believe they will be matches.

Thanks for the part numbers - that helps a ton if I plan on using the NAPA lines.

Just an FYI NAPA brand (United) is same line as Raysbestos and others.
They are all made by a Chinese Company and just rebranded.
Longevity is yet to be determined.

Hornd, in one of your earlier posts you mentioned the NAPA calipers were around 80$ .... is that price for each one or for both? Also, I would really like to get OEM brake lines but cruiseroutfitters didn't have any for my 97 LC so I guess those damn chinese made ones will have to do for now.

I talked just received an email saying that my order was going to be shipped today - contemplating on whether or not to order the Slee SS lines or just purchase NAPA lines for now and eventually replace with oem. I know there's a big debate about SS vs OEM but i'm leaning towards OEM (in the future). I'm sure I could find the answer somewhere on the forums but how much were the NAPA brake lines?

Thank you all!

 

[Dubbinchris]

Thanks for the part numbers - that helps a ton if I plan on using the NAPA lines.



Hornd, in one of your earlier posts you mentioned the NAPA calipers were around 80$ .... is that price for each one or for both? Also, I would really like to get OEM brake lines but cruiseroutfitters didn't have any for my 97 LC so I guess those damn chinese made ones will have to do for now.

I talked just received an email saying that my order was going to be shipped today - contemplating on whether or not to order the Slee SS lines or just purchase NAPA lines for now and eventually replace with oem. I know there's a big debate about SS vs OEM but i'm leaning towards OEM (in the future). I'm sure I could find the answer somewhere on the forums but how much were the NAPA brake lines?

Thank you all!

I have the Slee lines on my 80 and if I'm not mistaken they are just the ones that would required extending should you get a lift. I still have the OEM rubber going to my calipers. Also I'm now thinking the numbers I gave you aren't the ones you need to replace, but are the ones dropping down from the frame to the axle. I have other numbers to replace those with longer ones should you need them without going to the braided drop ones from Slee. If cruiser outfitters don't have the OEM ones then hit up @beno as that's where I got my OEM replacement for what you're looking for. Be sure to get new coppet crush washers along with them.

In regards to prices.....they are on the NAPA website.

 

[Dubbinchris]

The real Toyota part numbers for the OEM rubber lines to each caliper are:

90947-02A16 Hose, flexible. You'll need two.

Not sure the number on the copper crush washer, but you'll need 4 of them.

 

[Dubbinchris]

 

[OGBeno]

I love reading threads like this that have merely regurgitated what was discussed a decade or more ago.

If you just search, you will get your answers.

Brake caliper numbers for OEM applications have not changed in a decade.

Nor have the Toyota part numbers for brake hydraulic lines.

All 4 connections at all four calipers need 90430-10074 copper washers. Don't cheap around. They are literally a $1.20 each.

I'm constantly amazed at what BS people buy into on a daily basis about these trucks.

 

[Hornd]

They have 10% Napa coupon going on now.
I would check Rocks price on Brake lines as Napa will likely need to order anyhow.
Rock always has 5% off if you google Coupon Code.
Patience with those brake lines. Mine took 3X of heat and PB BLaster before they let loose with Vice Grips.
Don't ruin the steel lines.

 

[Hornd]

Napa Calipers will come with 2 Copper Washers, but no Banjo Bolts and those bolts are about $5 each.

 

[on3i11s]

Parts should be delivered today! Stopped by NAPA and ordered their eclipse calipers - I was expecting several days for their arrival but luckily he said they could get them in the store in a few hours...still waiting for them to call sometime today.

As far as brake lines go, I used some part #'s I found from a thread a while back for NAPA branded extended lines but the store did not have all of the hoses in stock and one would have to be shipped from minnesota

Searching around online and just found this company TLC Cruiser Parts which is located near LA. Waiting to hear back from one of their employees about ordering one of their SS brake lines set - 3 hoses vs 4 hoses - hopefully they'll have some in stock.

Napa Calipers will come with 2 Copper Washers, but no Banjo Bolts and those bolts are about $5 each.

Saving all copper washers and banjo bolts as a precaution! Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Dubbinchris]

As far as brake lines go, I used some part #'s I found from a thread a while back for NAPA branded extended lines but the store did not have all of the hoses in stock and one would have to be shipped from minnesota :

That's the thread I pulled the numbers from and posted earlier in this thread. I'm not sure those are the lines you're looking for.

Did you ever contact @beno for the lines as suggested?

 

[on3i11s]

That's the thread I pulled the numbers from and posted earlier in this thread. I'm not sure those are the lines you're looking for.

Did you ever contact @beno for the lines as suggested?

I thought those were the lines I needed dubbinchris but after some research and talking with one of TLC cruiser parts employees, I learned that the axle to caliper lines don't need to be extended so I ended up getting two stock flex hoses for my front calipers. I'm just going to replace the axle to caliper lines for now - I'll worry about the frame to axle and rear lines later! I didn't contact Beno because of the location of that company and I was hoping to start my rebuild ASAP. The hoses came in the mail the next day but unfortunately I wasn't able to begin the rebuild...

Buttttt, I'm starting today finally! Getting a little bit of a late start but I just wanted to check with you all real quick about something - I'm going to prep some parts in the meantime real quick.

I didn't pull out the oil seal until today. Per instructions/notes on the FAQ, I stuck my finger in the axle housing behind the oil seal prior to pulling it out. I felt a metal ring and was able to retrieve it after removing the oil seal. I just removed the oil seals on both sides and in each axle housing I found the metal ring.

From the FAQ:
Shine a flashlight into the axle housing and look around. There should be nothing visible loose in the housing and there should be an index ring about 2 inches from the oil seal flush against the inner lip of the machined surface (it may look like part of the housing). This ring can occasionally come loose. If it has it will likely be lying in the housing and you will need to reseat it somehow (there are posts on this).

I believe this metal ring is part of the oil seal, correct?? The wording in the FAQ had me worried but I found this old thread so now I'm pretty sure I'll just toss the rings aside for now. I did try to reseat it, since I thought that's what I was supposed to do. Fiddled around for 15 minutes trying to get that ring wrapped around that lip inside the housing. You can somewhat see the ring on the lip in the 2nd picture.

 

[on3i11s]

WARNING: LONG update to bring this thread to a near conclusion.

Finally finished my FA rebuild along with new calipers, pads, and hoses! The process definitely took a little longer than expected but I took my time to make sure everything was done properly and cleaned as thoroughly as possible. I learned so much from this experience! Thank you everyone for your tips and suggestions. Here's my timeline (yes I know this is snail's pace compared to some of you others!)

Day 1 - Finished preparing for DS rebuild...had to clean rust off axle housing, pull oil seal, and set up everything for the rebuild. Got a late start and ended the day with having the hub and wheel bearings greased up, ready for install in the morning.

Day 2 - Buttoned up the DS, installed final components. Completed PS rebuild in half the time it took for DS. Started removal of DS FA to caliper brake hose. 10 mm flare wrench and 17 mm open end made the process much easier, along with PB blaster...no heat needed

Day 3 - Installed new brake hoses for both sides. Installed the NAPA calipers. Installed 100 series brakes pads (took a while to get them to fit - removed shims and had to use a sander to remove some material) FINISHED WITH TOTAL REBUILD! Tried to perform a brake fluid flush as best as possible with an assistant...rear right bleeder valve was faulty...leaked from the threads so we tried bleeding for a little while then moved on. Bled the remaining brakes. Did not bleed the LSPV since I wasn't going to risk crawling under the truck with 3 wheels off Filled front diff, drained/filled rear diff.

Initial notes/thoughts: Took her for a test drive that night and the thing stopped like a champ, even with the sketchy brake bleeding. Only a few loops around the block and then 5 minutes or so on a 45 mph road. Everything seemed fine until I got home and did a quick inspection. Noticed a slight odd smell from front end...DS felt pretty hot. Took a mental note and prepared to drive her to work in the morning.

Monday morning: Drove 15 minutes to work, including the freeway, and all seemed okay until I got off on the exit. Noticed some grinding sounds, especially as I was pulling into my parking lot. The noise got worse and I knew right away something was wrong. Strong burning/odd smell from DS, hot, and then I noticed some small specks off shavings/metal on the inside of the wheel. This bummed the hell out of me but luckily I found some good threads on here after work!

So after research, without taking the DS wheel apart yet, I've pretty much determined that my upper caliper bolt came out. When removing the original caliper, I noticed that the upper bolt was a 19mm head. When I installed the new napa caliper, I couldn't fit the same bolt through the caliper so I ended up using a spare 17mm that I had gained elsewhere. Stupid me Tried using a torque wrench and I thought I stripped the threads in the housing but left the 17mm anyways.

After reading several posts, I thought I had stripped the housing but then the 19mm bolt finally made sense. Someone in the past must have stripped the threads in the housing and drilled/tapped the hole to fit a bigger bolt (19 mm) so, hopefully, my fix will be pretty easy. Just need to make the upper caliper hole bigger to slide the 19mm through and I'm hoping I'll be back to cruising!

Here's some pics of the truck/process...along with a nice gouge all the way around the inside of the DS wheel well from the caliper rubbing against it while driving. Also broke off a hub stud? when removing a hub nut for the right rear wheel..talk about unexpected!

 

[on3i11s]

and now the damn wheel damage......I can move the upper part of the caliper forwards or backwards by hand