Long range fuel tanks

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I run a large metal distribution company in Houston. If we can get enough interest I can find a fabricator. I carry stainless. carbon and aluminum sheet, plate and long products. I am not an engineer but could offer a great deal of knowledge on the material side
 
Yeah, the problem seems to really be the fabrication side of it. I talked to another firm here in Eugene and they wanted basically double what I had paid for the original tank. I have a complete design for the 40 gallon design and I have all the measurements needed to shrink it down to a 20-30 gallon design and fit the 2003+ models.

It's just finding a fabricator who can do the tig welding on the stainless sheet metal without charging and arm and a leg for it...

I'll send you a PM in the next few days or so on a couple of ideas and questions I have...
 
any thoughts on making out of Polyurethane. Having a roto mold made ? Cheaper than injection and you can run it as thick as you want. I run a mold shop and depending on design and size I could get you a cost on a mold but I would bet it would be in the 3000-5000 range and if its super complex more. but if its just a simple square/rectangle it might be cheaper. But after the mold is made I would guess parts at the 75-150. again depending how simple or complex they are.
 
*bump*

Any updates on this? No pressure, I know this is a side project and has been time consuming, I just love the thought of it...
 
Also, I'd be happy to pay for plans that I can use to have one of these fabricated locally if you decide to offer that...
 
Any updates on this? No pressure, I know this is a side project and has been time consuming, I just love the thought of it...

Sorry that it has been a backburner project. However, this year is the year I get this solved and fabbed up. I have a few more commitments and projects to wrap up before June, but starting in June the goal is get this project wrapped up.

I have to still figure out the routing and cutting of the filler pipe for the 2003+ 100's as the pipes route differently around the charcoal canister. Got lots of little questions to address before fabbing up the final prototype.
 
i have a 99+ and I'd be in for either tank. 20-25gals would be ideal for me as an overland because of all of the other weight I have on the truck.

BUT:
If it matters, I'd really like a combo tank which had water AND fuel, say 20gals of water and 15gals of fuel. I'd be okay with the tank going below the frame rails in this configuration assuming it was armored to some degree (skid plate). i'd want the RV demand pump to be inside the armor area. the other issue is making the demand pump waterproof for fording water crossings. the weight would be offset from the water weight i'd be carrying anyway, so it would be a net.
 
Sorry that it has been a backburner project. However, this year is the year I get this solved and fabbed up. I have a few more commitments and projects to wrap up before June, but starting in June the goal is get this project wrapped up.
*bump* @VidereStudios
 
I have some customers in the OEM automotive fuel tank manufacturing industry. Both USA based and Chinese based with USA manufacturing. While I don't have direct contacts, I'll see if I can reach out to anyone in manufacturing. An injection molded tank would probably be the lightest most efficient use of materials.
 
I have some customers in the OEM automotive fuel tank manufacturing industry. Both USA based and Chinese based with USA manufacturing. While I don't have direct contacts, I'll see if I can reach out to anyone in manufacturing. An injection molded tank would probably be the lightest most efficient use of materials.

I would be interested in seeing what you find out. If it seems viable, I can send some drawings for a large and small subtank.

Regarding where things stand right now...I am working on the electrical side of things and trying to get that nailed down. Also, I am saving up money so I can get a second, smaller (25 gallon) subtank fabbed up. This version is the one that is compatible with the 2003 to 2007 LC's.

So things are still progressing, though slowly right now.
 
If there's anything I can do to help (I have an 03 and my spare is on the rear bumper) let me know. I can do some electrical stuff, whatever.
 
any thoughts on making out of Polyurethane. Having a roto mold made ? Cheaper than injection and you can run it as thick as you want. I run a mold shop and depending on design and size I could get you a cost on a mold but I would bet it would be in the 3000-5000 range and if its super complex more. but if its just a simple square/rectangle it might be cheaper. But after the mold is made I would guess parts at the 75-150. again depending how simple or complex they are.

Are you still interested in doing this? I would be open to sending you several drawings that would show the tank and not to exceed measurements as well as the location for bungs for the hoses. While the initial outlay is high (for the mold), the price of each polyurethane tank would definitely be a huge savings for people over a fabricated SS tank. Finding a welder who could TIG weld these together without charging an arm and a leg has proven difficult.
 
Finding a welder who could TIG weld these together without charging an arm and a leg has proven difficult.
I still wonder if you're not better off finalizing the prototype and testing it - once it's proved sell the plans (or even the cut metal) where the buyer can DIY or source a local welder to finish the build. Just thinking aloud.
 
If there's anything I can do to help (I have an 03 and my spare is on the rear bumper) let me know. I can do some electrical stuff, whatever.

I may take you up on that. The filler neck routing is different from the early years to when Toyota moved the charcoal canister back above the spare. I need to figure out how to modify the dual filler neck I got from Japan so that it would work on the 2003-2007 versions.

Does anyone know if they made auxiliary subtanks for the 2003 to 2007 years in the rest of the world? If they did, then there is a specific dual filler neck out there that works for those years LC's...
 
I still wonder if you're not better off finalizing the prototype and testing it - once it's proved sell the plans (or even the cut metal) where the buyer can DIY or source a local welder to finish the build. Just thinking aloud.

Yeah, I agree that may be the best way to go about it. Sell a basic parts kit and plan set for a metal fabricator to make the tank. It would definitely save on cost. And that may be what ends up happening. But I need to get this second, smaller tank fabbed up so that I can confirm final fitment in the later years LC's.
 
Does anyone know if they made auxiliary subtanks for the 2003 to 2007 years in the rest of the world? If they did, then there is a specific dual filler neck out there that works for those years LC's...
There is a filler neck for the 03 and later, I'm checking with my guy to see if the model number is different, and if so, I'll try to get the differing info.
 
FWIW, the rest of the world 03-07 100's have their charcoal canister up front. The 'above the spare tire' canister seems to be specific to North America.
 
FWIW, the rest of the world 03-07 100's have their charcoal canister up front. The 'above the spare tire' canister seems to be specific to North America.

Does that mean one could successfully relocate it to the front using parts from the rest of the world without issues?
 
The AUS market canister is much different and lacking the sensors required by NA spec 100's. But it might be possible to use the NA spec 98-02 canister up front and reroute the lines. I'm not sure the '03+ canister would fit in the engine bay. It appears larger than the 98-02.

The NA 200 faces the same issues. DTT255 successfully relocated his canister. Not too much info though...
47 Gallon Long Ranger Aux Tank installation USA 200 series...
 
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