Lockers engage anytime mod
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
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Wow nice info. I was just about to try and figure this one out on my own. I saw the link in another thread just now. Now that I don't have a center diff anymore I need to be able to activate my lockers. Didn't even have to search. Thank you Phil.
so how can one disable the 5 mph locking/unlocking problem?
- Thread starter
- #24
What pin is this guy talking about on what controller box?
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/60699-Engaging-E-Lockers-in-motion/page2
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/60699-Engaging-E-Lockers-in-motion/page2
mostly my searches and finding links have only led to this.....
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more then locking at any speed, I just want them to stay locked.
so............... that being said I would like input, I think I have this figured out.
cdl switch is needed.
7 pin mode with the above switch.
find the pin in post 25 and remove it so the lockers will not unlock above 5 mph.
do this pin 15 grounding.
so help me out here with my thoughts.
cdl switch with the 7 pin mod, that will lock the center diff at any time... just on off.
that will lock the lockers at any time below 5mph.
the pin 4 in post 25 will keep the lockers locked above 5mph.
so............... that being said I would like input, I think I have this figured out.
cdl switch is needed.
7 pin mode with the above switch.
find the pin in post 25 and remove it so the lockers will not unlock above 5 mph.
do this pin 15 grounding.
so help me out here with my thoughts.
cdl switch with the 7 pin mod, that will lock the center diff at any time... just on off.
that will lock the lockers at any time below 5mph.
the pin 4 in post 25 will keep the lockers locked above 5mph.
that is awesome... let me know anytime you need a spotter.. GRIN.
The CDL needs to be engaged and the lock confirmed before the front and rear can be locked. Once locked at 5mph or below the factory lockers will stayed locked at higher speeds. That said they are a low speed traction device and can be dangerous at higher speeds. With a switch added the CDL can be locked at any speed. A front only locker would should be rethought as it raises the potential for breakage of the birfields and ring/pinion when steering and reversing.
why's the diff lock light start flashing right away. I put it in low, locked the rear diff, put it in high and the light started flashing as soon as I was about 5 mph. I turned a sharp corner and the rear was un locked.
There's the problem, the CDL will unlock in high range, then the diff's unlock.
It's not the speed at which it happened, it was the timing.
If you want to keep your axles locked in high range, all you need to do is add the switch.
The OP's mod is only for part-time 4WD.
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so adding the cdl switch and the 7 pin mod will fix that? what about this pin 15 and pin 4 mods? We are not new to off road, just this electronic thing. I don't want to short out something and burn up stuff. I am shocked that there is not more information out there... I have searched and the search on here is pretty hard to use. one wrong word and you come up with thousands of posts that mention what you are looking for but not the real information.
so landcrshr, what do you think of this pin 4 speed sensor disconnect?
so landcrshr, what do you think of this pin 4 speed sensor disconnect?
Just add the switch for locking while in high range.
Pin-7 mod (on the CDL control relay) is for the ability to UNlock the CDL in low range.
The other mods are to the diff lock ECU, you don't need to do those for what you want.
Disconnecting the speed sensor will give you the ability to destroy your locker if say, you are stuck in the mud, unlocked, with the throttle wide open, and you try to engage it.
Hope this helps.
Pin-7 mod (on the CDL control relay) is for the ability to UNlock the CDL in low range.
The other mods are to the diff lock ECU, you don't need to do those for what you want.
Disconnecting the speed sensor will give you the ability to destroy your locker if say, you are stuck in the mud, unlocked, with the throttle wide open, and you try to engage it.
Hope this helps.
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Sell the rear e-locker...buy a Detroit...problem solved. 
oh, we know better then to attempt to engage the lockers while spinning!!! Yes, you have helped a lot, thank you very much! I will see how it works before I look into pin 4 on post 25.
our mini's have Detroit lockers front and rear, just can't load up both kids at the same time in them unless we take both trucks. they also have the two transfer cases and the 2wd/4wd shifters at any speed.
here are our other trucks, and the build thread.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-build-a-toyota-solid-axle-rock-crawler-thread.257685/
thank you all for your help.
our mini's have Detroit lockers front and rear, just can't load up both kids at the same time in them unless we take both trucks. they also have the two transfer cases and the 2wd/4wd shifters at any speed.
here are our other trucks, and the build thread.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-build-a-toyota-solid-axle-rock-crawler-thread.257685/
thank you all for your help.
so the lockers with the cdl unlocked in low range would still un lock the lockers right?
Yup.
In a AWD system, there's no sense in locking an axle without having the center locked.
In a AWD system, there's no sense in locking an axle without having the center locked.
Yes. I have a part time truck. Just yesterday I turned of the paved road to explore a forestry road. It had been raining but it was very well groomed easy dirt road. I turned down a few pull offs that led down to the river. Still didn't have hubs locked. I went down a few short but steep sections of wet road with mud and standing water on them. I came right up it on the way out but did have just a little wheel spin.
If i had more wheel spin It would have been nice to just lock the rear if I need to. In reality I could have locked the center even thought it would not drive anything, and then just hit the rear locker.
But whatever. Options are nice.