Build Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap

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Even the outer looks clean, did u gave it wash, if so please advised.. I just pick up a 97 farm truck with 164k. Cheers!
I did give it a quick wash. The upper was as clean as pictured. It had some shop dust on it from sitting in a barn. Only spot that has any oil build up was the front crank seal area. They are known to weap.

Another nice discovery was the front crank. They always seem to have a groove worn in it from the seal mine has no groove at all. Just a slight polished area where it was riding.
 
I think you scored a gem there, this should be a solid runner in a few months, can't wait for a seat of the pants comparison to the 4bt
 
Ordered my 80 series clutch pedal assembly today and manual transmission break pedal. I plan to adapt the Dodge master to work with this. That will then avoid all the issues with miss matched cylinders.

The correct AC compressor is getting shipped and should be here tomorrow. The place I talked about earlier made good and replaced the one shipped in error.
 
That's pretty straight up for them to make god, I was a bit taken back when you got it.
 
If height does become an issue, it looks like you could make a mount for the alternator that would move the base bolt out over the two upper AC compressor bolts, rotating the alternator clockwise in the picture. Then the upper bracket would not need to reach over the alternator.
 
If height does become an issue, it looks like you could make a mount for the alternator that would move the base bolt out over the two upper AC compressor bolts, rotating the alternator clockwise in the picture. Then the upper bracket would not need to reach over the alternator.
Good eye and that was my plan if I need the room. At this stage I'm going to go with it as is till I get it in the truck and see how she looks from there.
 
Well weekend so with that comes updates. Nothing glamorous just the normal maintenance. Took the flywheel off and flywheel housing/starter. That allowed access to the rear main, I removed the housing and punched the seal out. Got a bit of a groove on the rear main area. Fortunately it's just from the dust seal part of the rear main and not the actual oil seal part.

I also removed the lift pump and fuel heater housing. Took apart the fuel heater and removed the heating element. The Thermostat for the fuel heater was burnt off anyways rendering it useless. So now it's just a pre screen for the lift pump. I removed the feed pipe to it, plan to put a barb fitting on it.

Got a bunch of small clean up things done too.

Nothing picture worthy so boring update.

Next weekend I plan to lift the engine and drop the oil pan to replace the gasket and reinstall the rear main seal housing.
 
Very cool man, glad to see your back on the wagon. Im assuming this is going into the same truck? if you mentioned it I missed it. 3k GSKs are by far the best pump mod I did on the 7100. much more usable power where i needed it.
 
Very cool man, glad to see your back on the wagon. Im assuming this is going into the same truck? if you mentioned it I missed it. 3k GSKs are by far the best pump mod I did on the 7100. much more usable power where i needed it.
Thanks! Yep same truck. I have not purchased any mods yet. I am planing on doing a 3k GSK and some AFC mods and a OFV along with more boost, nothing crazy.
 
You really don't need to get crazy and if one would get "crazy" your drive train will let you know pretty quick!
 
You really don't need to get crazy and if one would get "crazy" your drive train will let you know pretty quick!
I'm not, it will maybe add a bit more power but the main goal is drivability. I don't plan to add a lot of power just rpm range and efficiency. I will likely bump the timing to 15deg (from 13.5) as well to try and improve economy.
 
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If you are going to replace the governor spring along with a few other power mods, might as well go with the 4K.

I went with 4K, 60lb valve springs, opened up the fuel plate, o-ringed head, Mahle 286210 pistons (not quite marine, but larger bowl than OEM), advanced timing 16 degrees, 20% extruded injector nozzles along with the HX35 turbo.
 
3K gov spring made a HUGE difference on my buddy's old 1st gen Ram 2500 manual trans, really woke it up and made it so you didn't have to shift all the time.
 
If you are going to replace the governor spring along with a few other power mods, might as well go with the 4K.

I went with 4K, 60lb valve springs, opened up the fuel plate, o-ringed head, Mahle 286210 pistons (not quite marine, but larger bowl than OEM), advanced timing 16 degrees, 20% extruded injector nozzles along with the HX35 turbo.
Seems like a lot of mods to run a stock turbo. Going to be good and hot smokie.

Way more mods than I feel needed for my goals. I grew out of my fast car stage of life when I sold my 800whp car.
 
I am going to wait and see on the turbo, from research and discussions with my builder the consensus is that this will be a very comfortable and clean running setup. If I need more air, then I would probably get an He351.
 
I am going to wait and see on the turbo, from research and discussions with my builder the consensus is that this will be a very comfortable and clean running setup. If I need more air, then I would probably get an He351.
HX35 maybe good along with a larger one in a compound setup. The stock turbo limits things considerably. At the very least put a 14cm turbine and ported WG on the thing. If not the EGT's will likely be out of controle.

I'll let you test it all out though. Just seen a lot of 2nd Gen 12v with big smokie setups with bigger injectors and other pump mods and stock turbo's.
 
HX35 maybe good along with a larger one in a compound setup. The stock turbo limits things considerably. At the very least put a 14cm turbine and ported WG on the thing. If not the EGT's will likely be out of controle.

I'll let you test it all out though. Just seen a lot of 2nd Gen 12v with big smokie setups with bigger injectors and other pump mods and stock turbo's.
If it ends up being smokey, then it will go. My goal was a strong reliable, non smoking, drivable setup.
 
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