- Thread starter
- #141
In some ways getting one from a bus may better. Some had a 230hp pump and most had the mid mount accessory braket. The air compressors are huge and will not clear the steering box in our trucks.
Build Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
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- Thread starter
- #142
Fittings for power steering lines. These will adapt the pump to the box. All I need to do is once the engine is in is measure and get a short hydrolic line made.
I found these numbers in another build thread I can't remember the name of the guy but if you read this thank you!
-6 x 16-1.5mm Inverted Flare AN fitting, Metric
-6 x 16-1.5mm AN to bump tube fitting with O Ring
I found these numbers in another build thread I can't remember the name of the guy but if you read this thank you!
-6 x 16-1.5mm Inverted Flare AN fitting, Metric
-6 x 16-1.5mm AN to bump tube fitting with O Ring
Get those fittings (and the others you'll likely need) from PSC and run their "field serviceable" lines. You can make (and repair) the high pressure hydraulic lines yourself with a couple of wrenches and a vice (or just a couple of wrenches in a pinch):
Offroad Power Steering for your Race Truck, Crawler or Custom Buggy
Offroad Power Steering for your Race Truck, Crawler or Custom Buggy
@GLTHFJ60
thanks for the input! I now this bus was well cared for since it was on a county maint plan so I decided to start searching the BB TC2000's, I see newer ones as well, 2000-2004 that also have the 5.9's in them, I'm guessing those are all electronic though and I was wanting to stay with a P7100 just incase of an EMP going off nearby! I liked the idea of OBA but that thing is frigging HUGE, might need to put on some train horns just to keep it active!
thanks for the input! I now this bus was well cared for since it was on a county maint plan so I decided to start searching the BB TC2000's, I see newer ones as well, 2000-2004 that also have the 5.9's in them, I'm guessing those are all electronic though and I was wanting to stay with a P7100 just incase of an EMP going off nearby! I liked the idea of OBA but that thing is frigging HUGE, might need to put on some train horns just to keep it active!
- Thread starter
- #145
I could yeah. My thought is if I have a failer it will be on the road away from available vice ect. I can't see the line costing much to get a 2nd back up line made so I have a spare.
That's definitely a way to go, I was just presenting an alternative. I have all PSC field serviceable lines on my truck. I've built new lines out on the trail a handful of times with just two adjustable crescent wrenches and my tailgate.
That brings up another question. Are you going to run hydroboost or a vacuum pump?
Love the thread. The only advice I have as a guy who has a cummins powered dodge truck is to remove that FRAM oil filter. There was a TSB about them failing internally and clogging up the motor. I'm sure you will be fine with it, but a Fleetguard Stratapore filter is made for the engine. Superior filtering. I read that you are going to use the cyclone type filter with the snorkel. Keep in mind diesels can get dusted from crappy K&N filters. Use a paper one.
Carry on. Looks nice and thought out.
Carry on. Looks nice and thought out.
- Thread starter
- #148
Well I got all my seals gaskets and other parts I needed to get the engine work done. They are all fine, I went with Victor Reze (sp) rear main and front crank seal kits. They appear to be very high quality. The front seal has got a repair sleeve to fix the inevitable groove from the old seal.
I also got my AC compressor........ Not impressed. Sold as 8 rib sanden compressor with the manifold I need for this application. It's for a sterling truck with a Cummins. What I got is the right body compressor with a 5 rib pully and the manifold facing the block. Basically who ever rebuilt this compressor did a s*** job, not rebuilt to OEM spec at all. I have sent the seller an message on eBay so we will see what they say.
Not enough ribs here.
That's not going to work......
All the details on what I thought I was getting here...
I also got my AC compressor........ Not impressed. Sold as 8 rib sanden compressor with the manifold I need for this application. It's for a sterling truck with a Cummins. What I got is the right body compressor with a 5 rib pully and the manifold facing the block. Basically who ever rebuilt this compressor did a s*** job, not rebuilt to OEM spec at all. I have sent the seller an message on eBay so we will see what they say.
Not enough ribs here.
That's not going to work......
All the details on what I thought I was getting here...
- Thread starter
- #149
Thank you! Yep this fram will not be left nor will a fram ever find a home on this engine again as long as I own it. The seller put it on for the test fire pre purchase. I plan to replace it with a fleetguard filter. I plan to try the new one with the bypass filter element in it.
For air filter much the same, no K&N's here. I plan to get a Donaldson housing and use only Donaldson filters in it. It's a cyclonic housing housing with a dual filter elements.
- Thread starter
- #150
So I may have an issue with this accessory setup. My worry about the hight of the alternator braket looks to be justified. I need to do some more accurate measuring before I conform it. This alternator mount looks to stick about 1.5" taller than the valve cover right at the front of the engine. A local just got his swap done and took a few measurements and it appears I have about 1" before contacting the hood in this area.
I'm going to take come careful measurements and see what I can come up with. Thoughts right now are see if I can make the setup lower profile. Meaning make the alternator sit lower and the top braket looks like I can shave 3/4" off it. Well see what I come up with. If it's going to mean reinventing the wheel I'll cut my losses and go with the diesel adapter one.
Really not going to know what works 100% till I get it in the truck.
I'm going to take come careful measurements and see what I can come up with. Thoughts right now are see if I can make the setup lower profile. Meaning make the alternator sit lower and the top braket looks like I can shave 3/4" off it. Well see what I come up with. If it's going to mean reinventing the wheel I'll cut my losses and go with the diesel adapter one.
Really not going to know what works 100% till I get it in the truck.
Moving right along I'd say, when are you guessing you might be lowering it in to check fit?
X2 on Fleetguard. I have a bunch of marine 5.9s and that is the only brand. Goodyear Gatorback serp. belts too.
- Thread starter
- #153
My hope is to have all the parts ready to go by end of February. So likely will start dropping it in some time in March.
Yeah, I actually ordered a Donaldson filter last night as well as a Baldwin that had the built in bypass filter media. Mainly to see what my options are. The Donaldson is rated at 15mu at 95% and the Baldwin is down to 2mu on the bypass element part. We'll see, I plan to do a few short oil changes to start. The Fleetguard filter I want to run is there new 9000 series with the built in bypass filter element. But it's steep at $80 per filter.
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I'd more than likely be willing to purchase those brackets if it doesn't work out. Moving the AC compressor up would allow me to make a cleaner lower radiator hose and route the intercooler piping on that side.
Good luck!!
Does it stick up higher than the intake horn?
- Thread starter
- #156
I'm headed to the shop this afternoon to take a look and do some measuring.
- Thread starter
- #157
OK so got a few hours to work and measure some things on the 6bt. I started by laying a straightedge across the valve covers. The alternator sits just under 1" above the valve cover. The intake horn is about 2" higher than the valve cover but it's almost mid line of the engine where as the alternator braket is right at the front of the engine. I'm not going to change anything till I have the engine in the truck and can see exactly how it lines up. I am not married to an engine hight too so if I need to lower mine an extra 1/2" I should be able too. Last resort will be a 1" body lift...... But even saying body lift makes me sad.
My goal today was to also see if the KDP (killer dowel pin) was in place. So I removed the crank pully and timing cover. It's never been off as the bolts where still painted to the cover. Dowel pin had not killed anything yet...... It was poking out about 1/16th of an inch. I tried to tap it back but it stopped about 1/8" in from the cover so left it.
This engine is spotless inside the timing cover. There is zero sludge or even soot stain on anything in there. This pick is taken when the cover came off not wipping or anything.
Only slight oil build up was on the back of the cover and still very little. I have seen these come off of higher or not maintained engines and they are a bit of a mess. So I was happy to get some confirmation of the low millage and maintenance.
My 15min KDP tab I made this out of some 20gage sheet metal. Should work OK. I also retorqued all the timing housing bolts and used blue locktight.
Good day, I have a thousand more things I want to do on this. But I'm resisting the temptation so I don't have things taken appart waiting for parts to show up.
I also got the majority of the engine seals and gaskets I ordered. Looks great! Really happy with my choice to go with the Victor crank, rear main and oil pan gasket. Really high quality looking parts.
The belt tensioner I ordered will not work, it's for a 97 Dodge and tensions the wrong direction for this f800 accessory mount. So I will need to get another one.
I decided not to make my own tensioner mount I'm just going to buy the one from the same guy that made the alternator mount. At this point a saved day in this swap is worth more than the part.
My goal today was to also see if the KDP (killer dowel pin) was in place. So I removed the crank pully and timing cover. It's never been off as the bolts where still painted to the cover. Dowel pin had not killed anything yet...... It was poking out about 1/16th of an inch. I tried to tap it back but it stopped about 1/8" in from the cover so left it.
This engine is spotless inside the timing cover. There is zero sludge or even soot stain on anything in there. This pick is taken when the cover came off not wipping or anything.
Only slight oil build up was on the back of the cover and still very little. I have seen these come off of higher or not maintained engines and they are a bit of a mess. So I was happy to get some confirmation of the low millage and maintenance.
My 15min KDP tab I made this out of some 20gage sheet metal. Should work OK. I also retorqued all the timing housing bolts and used blue locktight.
Good day, I have a thousand more things I want to do on this. But I'm resisting the temptation so I don't have things taken appart waiting for parts to show up.
I also got the majority of the engine seals and gaskets I ordered. Looks great! Really happy with my choice to go with the Victor crank, rear main and oil pan gasket. Really high quality looking parts.
The belt tensioner I ordered will not work, it's for a 97 Dodge and tensions the wrong direction for this f800 accessory mount. So I will need to get another one.
I decided not to make my own tensioner mount I'm just going to buy the one from the same guy that made the alternator mount. At this point a saved day in this swap is worth more than the part.
Wow Jeremy that thing was SUPER clean inside the cover, you must have been smiling from ear to ear when you pulled it off!
- Thread starter
- #159
Yeah big smile for sure. You just never know how far you can trust the word of some one selling something. He seemed honest but I still am glad to see confirmation of it. Hopefully it's clear sailing from here.
Even the outer looks clean, did u gave it wash, if so please advised.. I just pick up a 97 farm truck with 164k. Cheers!