Build Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser

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Dusten said:
The troubleshooting guide points at the egr. How much have you looked into this?

And egr is not operating when cold. So this would lend to your warm only.
It is almost completely open at idle and at light throttle cruise. So as it attempts to cycle you may notice a hesitation between what the car expects for oxygen content and what it's getting.

It's a valve that cycles. This lends to "not all the time". I don't want to use intermittent because often times things aren't intermittent, but the person troubleshooting hasn't found the cause which can lend to understanding why it's happening.
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This is a good observation. I did attempt to disable my egr, but I might have done that incorrectly. 🤔
 
I have the toyocom. I think I ended up with one of the bad ones, so I can't be much help. I'm in the same camp though regarding IOs vs. Android. I had an old galaxy something that I had the toyocom app on but keeping a "super mini tablet" around just for one purpose got frustrating, then it quit sending data. Funnily enough, it's still just hanging out in my engine bay. It adds a little splash of color to the place.
 
MrMikeyG said:
I have the toyocom. I think I ended up with one of the bad ones, so I can't be much help. I'm in the same camp though regarding IOs vs. Android. I had an old galaxy something that I had the toyocom app on but keeping a "super mini tablet" around just for one purpose got frustrating, then it quit sending data. Funnily enough, it's still just hanging out in my engine bay. It adds a little splash of color to the place.
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Good to know.
 
After these comments on Toyocom I’m gonna move on. It looks like it might be pretty cool, but I have apple crap and I don’t need any more devices…I need less.

The best thing I can figure that it would be useful for interns of real time data is probably temp. But I think there are other ways to get this data easily.

Thanks y’all.
 
Ok so I’m still learning how to do all this…but I missed this whole test mode you can set up with the diagnostic terminal and drive around with the ECM more sensitive to codes. So I did a little drive and managed to get the engine to throw code 25. The misfiring under light load when warmed up is pretty interesting. It really only start up if I drive and park. The when I starts again it begins to misfire/ hesitate at idle (typically about 50 rpm lower) and rough like it’s misfiring. Then under load I can feel it. The best way I can destroy is as if I’m driving over many small seams in the highway. When holding the gas steady around 1500-2000 it’s most pronounced because it’s easier to notice. I believe it’s actually present at all throttle positions but harder to notice at WOT.

I did use a IR temp gun and the EGR pipe is staying pretty cool—much lower than exhaust headers. So I’m thinking that I can rule out EGR. This fits since I disabled the EGR vacuum.

I’m going to remove the TB and pull the spark plugs for an inspection…hopefully this afternoon. I’ll be looking for very tiny cracks and other abnormalities.

While I’m at it I’ll hit the TB with more cleaner, and adjust the throttle cables.

I’m also going to pull my drawers and inspect my fuel pump (maybe a PM replacement?) and clean up the connectors. I’ll also get a chance to see the inside of the tank and see if there are looming issues there.

Finally I also ordered a new high quality DMM (I wanted a Fluke 88, but settled for a Klein mm700), some back probing test leads, and a 2 channel oscilloscope for about ~$150. I’m thinking that if it is an issue in the main harness then I should take this opportunity to learn how to see these voltage signals and hopefully this will allow me to record the waveforms and share the digital images of them with you folks. I Devi to pick up a better DMM for the tool box and put the simpler DMM in the trail tool bag (I’m building a new kit from all my scrounged quality tools—for another post)

My wife is hoping that I can get it sorted by the first week of April, but we both are resigned to the fact that we may need to let go of an escape to wilder places, as family needs are very high right now with my pops.

I’ll keep you posted..at a glacial speed no doubt!
 
Greg,
What are you hoping to find on the TB, plugs, and fuel tank/pump/sock? I think your issue is still in the injectors/harness area. I'd recheck your main engine harness too. Have you tried grabbing the harness with the engine running and tried moving it around to see a change in condition? I suppose your VAFM may have taken a small s*** but it's probably unlikely. Have you read up on @SmokingRocks troubleshooting for his Code 26? I know you have a code 25 but maybe he can offer up some assistance; he's an electrical guru.
Pell
 
FMC80 said:
Greg,
What are you hoping to find on the TB, plugs, and fuel tank/pump/sock? I think your issue is still in the injectors/harness area. I'd recheck your main engine harness too. Have you tried grabbing the harness with the engine running and tried moving it around to see a change in condition? I suppose your VAFM may have taken a small s*** but it's probably unlikely. Have you read up on @SmokingRocks troubleshooting for his Code 26? I know you have a code 25 but maybe he can offer up some assistance; he's an electrical guru.
Pell
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Good Questions. Essentially I'm doing a couple of things:
  1. Overall after chasing threads on this issue (there are quite a few)
  2. At this point for TB its making sure that there isn't any residual gummy carbon thats causing problems when it gets warmed up. To check the plugs and triple check the injectors and their connectors, I'm removing the TB anyway.
  3. Fuel Pump: I've never inspected and its a critical component to function of the rig. I've read on this forum that it can show odd symptoms when it is warmed up. I believe this is unlikely, but given I have no sense of its condition Id at least like to put some dialectic grease on the contacts, and have a look at the fuel tank while I'm in there.
  4. I have tried pushing on the wiring harness by the EGR valve and I can't get it to replicate. But, I certainly don't think it rules out the harness as a suspect. In fact I think thats where the issue lies. I think my wrapping and heat shielding of the harness has exacerbated the problem.
  5. sogafarm said:
    If you can get a hold of someone's working VAFM, try switching one out to see if it's yours that is acting up. Takes about 15 minutes at the most..
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    I could probably persuade @Dirtygumboots, but while it only takes 5 minutes to swap this thing out, It's not always so predictable when it starts to miss. My VFM so far checks out for the FSM tests, but I have opted not to clean it for fear that even the CRC MAF cleaner might **** it up...and its not a quick thing to source.
 
I just went out to do another test mode drive (going to visit my dad). CEL flashed then stopped. Removed the test jumper from the diagnostic port. Put key to on, no CEL…but started right up. So the ****ing bulb just burned out. Blarg.
 
Despite all the wiggling and prodding I’m doing to the main harness by the EGR I cannot get it to act up and miss.

I’m going to try and get that dash bulb back in. Feels spooky to have it not working. I’ll replace my D light too I guess.
 
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Kinda gross under there.
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Bulb for CEL was burnt out. I replaced that one. D bulb is different and I do t have one stashed away. I swapped D for L, but I might switch for N. Can’t decide. I’d like to shove it back together tonight, but I’m on dinner duty. Dal and Tadig. Let’s go!
 
Agreed. Always so worried I’ll break that trim.
 
This is the first time I’ve had the upper dash trim out. It’s a little harder to get to than my old 1987 mini truck. The mini trucks PO had a bunch of gross looking LEDs in that that I swapped for incandescents. I really enjoy dimming my dash lights.
 
Great job, G. I have yet to pull mine apart because I’m a bitch. I have a year old combination meter sitting on the shelf because I’m procrastinating diving into it. Any snags or tricks from the trade you can share or is it straightforward?
 
FMC80 said:
Great job, G. I have yet to pull mine apart because I’m a bitch. I have a year old combination meter sitting on the shelf because I’m procrastinating diving into it. Any snags or tricks from the trade you can share or is it straightforward?
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It’s straightforward. However the lower trim is looooong and the climate control panel is heavy. It really wants to stress that old plastic. Hardest part is u hooking the connectors…especially the dimmer they are old and reluctant. And the upper dash has lots of little screws for you to drop into the dash black hole. Somebody was in mine as a bunch of screws were missing.

10-15 minutes to get it out.
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
It’s straightforward. However the lower trim is looooong and the climate control panel is heavy. It really wants to stress that old plastic. Hardest part is u hooking the connectors…especially the dimmer they are old and reluctant. And the upper dash has lots of little screws for you to drop into the dash black hole. Somebody was in mine as a bunch of screws were missing.

10-15 minutes to get it out.
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Also bust out the Vessel JIS #1 screwdriver.
 
My main dash bezel has a 50% crack right at center of steering column. That bit of flex is a catch 22 for sure, I almost close my eyes every time I have to move it, yet that bit of extra flex helps me get at the climate connectors. There is very little slack on those dang things.
 
Update:

I have a couple of things to share this afternoon. I now have a D light. After years of ownership with one it is odd to have a bright light in the middle of the dash. I’ll be Back in there in a bit to try and get my locker indicator lights to function when I install the ARB Compressor switch and the factory magic dial.

I also checked over the engine while it was warming I up and idling in my driveway. I got the mechanics scope on all the injectors, all are humming away.

I sprayed starting fluid on the vacuum lines and main air intake hose….nothing. Vacuum replacement worked well.

I think all signs are leaning towards the main harness. I was able to get it to slightly misfire when I was tugging and pushing on it. I think that alone warrants surgery to unwrap the main harness and have a good look at the individual wires. i’ll Give that a whirl tomorrow. More electrical fun ahead!
 
I wish this photo was of some obvious busted wire or melted spot, but I can’t find any broken insulation or melted insulation. Nothing very alarming other than needing to re-wrap it again.
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I’ll keep looking carefully, but the threads I’ve read on this visually obvious damage. I can’t see anything.

Last time I did this there was no radiator in the way, so access to the back of the bay was a cinch. This time I made a belly board.
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It works well enough, but it’s as uncomfortable as it looks. My knees are on the ARB, still lots of neck cramping. I’m not ready to rewrap the harness yet, but I’m scratching my head.
 
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