Build Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser

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I wonder if your engine harness needs to be opened up and inspected again.
It’s a possibility. Not a fun one though!
 
Parked next to a very nice local rig…owned by a very cool guy who shared tons of knowledge in the 10 minutes we got to chat.

26BF1008-F12C-4A5C-99D9-8D7AFB46515D.jpeg
 
Sweet roof rack
 
Was he like, “oh yours is just a 93/94 OBD1 cruiser…at least it isn’t a 3FE” as he sipped his chocolate mocha Frappuccino with extra caramel drizzle kind of guy?


No?

That’s good. I have low tolerance for people like that.
 
Nope, after talking for ten minutes he was sharing his 80 series tool inventory, which I will happily rent from him six pack by six pack. Or at least I hope so!






But my double tall chai latte was so good though….
 
I have fomo for the obd1 Bluetooth toyobd1 scanner thingy. I almost bought one, but I did not. Now they are no longer available.
 
Wait this isn’t fomo. I did actually miss out.
 
I bought one. Got it and didn’t want to **** with it. I certainly don’t want to **** with Android when the communist apple is so far embedded in my life. I don’t have time for another platform. Besides, I think the data points the toyocom reader gets you is basic bitch.
 
I bought one. Got it and didn’t want to f*** with it. I certainly don’t want to f*** with Android when the communist apple is so far embedded in my life. I don’t have time for another platform. Besides, I think the data points the toyocom reader gets you is basic bitch.
It’s true. Super basic. Cult of Mac has us by the short and curly ones.

Do you know if it can read injector signals? I know it reads the 02 sensor data, and engine temps maybe?

I have zero 95-97 1FZ-FE envy except for the scan guage…and my useless round switch blanks (we need @NLXTACY to get a 93-94 to fall in love with solve this problem for us :flipoff2:)
 
It’s true. Super basic. Cult of Mac has us by the short and curly ones.

Do you know if it can read injector signals? I know it reads the 02 sensor data, and engine temps maybe?

I have zero 95-97 1FZ-FE envy except for the scan guage…and my useless round switch blanks (we need @NLXTACY to get a 93-94 to fall in love with solve this problem for us :flipoff2:)

@Desert Dino is well versed on the toyocoms. Maybe he can chime in.
 
@Desert Dino is well versed on the toyocoms. Maybe he can chime in.
I’ve read some bits and pieces of his threads, but I enter full squirrel mode and bounce over to seeing if I can find one for sale. Anyhow, it’s a moot point. The readers are challenging to source and probably won’t help me troubleshoot my hesitation issue.

I’m currently leaning toward some small damage in the wiring harness that I missed, or some sort of spark plug issue. I haven’t really worked through my troubleshooting list, but rather checked out some of the more likely culprits with my dmm. Now I’m annoyed that I have such a crappy DMM, and I’m further annoyed that the u it I would like is the Fluke 88 a/v kit that is automotive oriented with a heap of quality test leads, but I need a spare 600-800 for one. My auto parts store cheap DMMs work ok, but I think they are not very sensitive for doing resistance readings. I’m not super skilled with automotive electrical things, but I’m currently reading these tech articles: on a website called Autoshop101.

I found them digging in the resources section of IH8MUD. @Malleus had posted a couple of Toyota tech training materials and mentioned this as a source. It had numerous articles, ranging from “what is electrical theory as applied to a Toyota tech, to how to use a DMM, and how to read and get the most out of the Toyota EWDs. It’s great stuff. Anyhow I’m challenging myself to treat it like a course and actually study it and try and understand it better. I have so many electrical knowledge gaps, and it’s clear once I try and understand the solutions others have posted about chasing electrical issues in their rigs.

When somebody says “I made a homemade oscilloscope that connects to my phone via Bluetooth and used it to figure out my hesitation issues” I used to think: that’s not something I can do.

Now I’m thinking: that’s something I want to learn more about.

And let’s be honest here, that’s been my MO the whole of my ownership. At first I couldn’t afford to do all these fixes, but as that’s slowly and gently changed my mentality has been to learn as much as I can (still not sure about doing the gears myself ;)).

I’m in a pretty philosophical mood these days. If you came for tech….uhh my most sincere apologies. This is more like a case study of a guy who wants to fix his own s*** (literally and metaphorically) and has stubbornly attempted to teach himself how to do to it in painfully real time.
 
Why is toyocom necessary? I’ll be up your way in May BTW.
 
I’ve read some bits and pieces of his threads, but I enter full squirrel mode and bounce over to seeing if I can find one for sale. Anyhow, it’s a moot point. The readers are challenging to source and probably won’t help me troubleshoot my hesitation issue.

I’m currently leaning toward some small damage in the wiring harness that I missed, or some sort of spark plug issue. I haven’t really worked through my troubleshooting list, but rather checked out some of the more likely culprits with my dmm. Now I’m annoyed that I have such a crappy DMM, and I’m further annoyed that the u it I would like is the Fluke 88 a/v kit that is automotive oriented with a heap of quality test leads, but I need a spare 600-800 for one. My auto parts store cheap DMMs work ok, but I think they are not very sensitive for doing resistance readings. I’m not super skilled with automotive electrical things, but I’m currently reading these tech articles: on a website called Autoshop101.

I found them digging in the resources section of IH8MUD. @Malleus had posted a couple of Toyota tech training materials and mentioned this as a source. It had numerous articles, ranging from “what is electrical theory as applied to a Toyota tech, to how to use a DMM, and how to read and get the most out of the Toyota EWDs. It’s great stuff. Anyhow I’m challenging myself to treat it like a course and actually study it and try and understand it better. I have so many electrical knowledge gaps, and it’s clear once I try and understand the solutions others have posted about chasing electrical issues in their rigs.

When somebody says “I made a homemade oscilloscope that connects to my phone via Bluetooth and used it to figure out my hesitation issues” I used to think: that’s not something I can do.

Now I’m thinking: that’s something I want to learn more about.

And let’s be honest here, that’s been my MO the whole of my ownership. At first I couldn’t afford to do all these fixes, but as that’s slowly and gently changed my mentality has been to learn as much as I can (still not sure about doing the gears myself ;)).

I’m in a pretty philosophical mood these days. If you came for tech….uhh my most sincere apologies. This is more like a case study of a guy who wants to fix his own s*** (literally and metaphorically) and has stubbornly attempted to teach himself how to do to it in painfully real time.
When you get this electrical stuff figured out, let me know. I struggle with it every day.
 
When you get this electrical stuff figured out, let me know. I struggle with it every day.
I will, I’m on the long journey with it it seems.
Why is toyocom necessary? I’ll be up your way in May BTW.
It’s not, but I couldn’t help but wonder if I could see the sensor output behaving oddly during the intermittent hesitation.
 
Dude, drive it.
It’s happening. Enjoying it all over again. It puts a smile on my face. I am so satisfied that it no longer leaks oil like crazy. It’s a good feeling. Happy to be filling it up with gas again. I’m even going to order up some fancy seat covers to perhaps avoid recovering the seats for another couple of years.

But, the hesitation and intermittent rough idle are lame and I want them to be solved too. The obd1 reader thingy is me just looking for some low hanging diagnostic fruit.
 
The troubleshooting guide points at the egr. How much have you looked into this?

And egr is not operating when cold. So this would lend to your warm only.
It is almost completely open at idle and at light throttle cruise. So as it attempts to cycle you may notice a hesitation between what the car expects for oxygen content and what it's getting.

It's a valve that cycles. This lends to "not all the time". I don't want to use intermittent because often times things aren't intermittent, but the person troubleshooting hasn't found the cause which can lend to understanding why it's happening.
 
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