Build Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser

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baldilocks said:
$1200 labor??? A good diff guy will be done in 2 hours max especially if you drop off the thirds. You can do it yourself.
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I'm 100% with you. Gears in a third member on a bench is super easy

$1200 seems fair if you drop off your truck with them and they're swapping both axles
 
JoeW said:
I guess you have to ask yourself how much are you going to have to spend in tooling and or parts a potential 2nd time to save yourself $1200. How much is your time worth? The price point that diff guys put out there is based on demand. They know folks are intimidated by setting backlash and preload etc.
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These are the important questions. I think about the time spent on my cruiser as a value rather than a cost. Every mistake I make, puzzle I encounter, gap in my knowledge that I bridge, I think of as a net gain.

The costs I think about are time spent with the cruiser doing an impression of a boat anchor. Due to my “shop space”, when it’s not drivable its in the way of the many moving parts of my family’s life.

As for tools and equipment, my largest concern in this situation is the need for a shop press. I’m less concerned about cost, but I am short on space. Can I do this work with a 10 ton bench top press? Do I need a 12, or 20 ton floor press? Besides replacing all my bushings what am I going to do with it afterwards.

And then there is the very real thought that doing this wrong is totally possible and it will result in me stranding my family in a remote place…

Still thinking….
 
JoeW said:
I guess you have to ask yourself how much are you going to have to spend in tooling and or parts a potential 2nd time to save yourself $1200. How much is your time worth? The price point that diff guys put out there is based on demand. They know folks are intimidated by setting backlash and preload etc.
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Price point is based on everyone thinks they should live like a king no matter what they do.
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
These are the important questions. I think about the time spent on my cruiser as a value rather than a cost. Every mistake I make, puzzle I encounter, gap in my knowledge that I bridge, I think of as a net gain.

The costs I think about are time spent with the cruiser doing an impression of a boat anchor. Due to my “shop space”, when it’s not drivable its in the way of the many moving parts of my family’s life.

As for tools and equipment, my largest concern in this situation is the need for a shop press. I’m less concerned about cost, but I am short on space. Can I do this work with a 10 ton bench top press? Do I need a 12, or 20 ton floor press? Besides replacing all my bushings what am I going to do with it afterwards.

And then there is the very real thought that doing this wrong is totally possible and it will result in me stranding my family in a remote place…

Still thinking….
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I own all the tools to do differentials including the press and dial indicators.

I choose not to do these due to the difficulty and PITA factor they require. If I did it every day, I would be set up different, but doing two every 20 years, I'll pay someone else to do it. I was going to have Zuk do mine until he decided to go fishing. We have a local that I will have do this and he provides a warranty and I know him.

I can do it, but it doesn't mean I WANT to do it.

If I "had" to do it, I would buy a second set of diffs, then build them while I'm driving it, then swap when ready.
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
These are the important questions. I think about the time spent on my cruiser as a value rather than a cost. Every mistake I make, puzzle I encounter, gap in my knowledge that I bridge, I think of as a net gain.

The costs I think about are time spent with the cruiser doing an impression of a boat anchor. Due to my “shop space”, when it’s not drivable its in the way of the many moving parts of my family’s life.

As for tools and equipment, my largest concern in this situation is the need for a shop press. I’m less concerned about cost, but I am short on space. Can I do this work with a 10 ton bench top press? Do I need a 12, or 20 ton floor press? Besides replacing all my bushings what am I going to do with it afterwards.

And then there is the very real thought that doing this wrong is totally possible and it will result in me stranding my family in a remote place…

Still thinking….
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Feeling defeated prior to an attempt could definitely be discouraging. If you build it incorrectly, you will probably find out sooner than later, meaning, build it then drive it a couple thousand miles before going remote. If it doesn’t make noises and the oil inspection passes after the first 500 miles, it was most likely built well. Gear and install kits come with detailed instructions.

As you know, education is not free. I look at these as educational opportunities that expand my freedom to help myself and others.
 
baldilocks said:
As you know, education is not free. I look at these as educational opportunities that expand my freedom to help myself and others.
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This is my sentiment as well.
BILT4ME said:
I own all the tools to do differentials including the press and dial indicators.

I choose not to do these due to the difficulty and PITA factor they require. If I did it every day, I would be set up different, but doing two every 20 years, I'll pay someone else to do it. I was going to have Zuk do mine until he decided to go fishing. We have a local that I will have do this and he provides a warranty and I know him.

I can do it, but it doesn't mean I WANT to do it.

If I "had" to do it, I would buy a second set of diffs, then build them while I'm driving it, then swap when ready.
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I’ve seen you post this in numerous places and it is one of the reasons I take great pause before saying “I’m gonna do it myself!”

I still would prefer them to be setup by a shop. I agree that an ideal way to do this is a second set of diffs. I wish I could get a warranty, but I don’t think that’s possible.

More calls to make at some point. I did inspect all my boxes from cruiser outfitters and everything arrived in great shape.
 
Well I’m parking the cruiser for a hot minute. I’ve been experiencing some odd rough idle and some strange surging/ hesitation while I’m driving at highway speeds. It’s most noticeable when I start he car when it’s warmed up and I shift into D or R from P. It’s inconsistent. It will often go away when I drive the rig a block or two.

I’m going to investigate the trouble shooting section around rough idle and hesitation. I checked the injector function a week or so ago and my problematic injector was working.

It just feels like it’s not as smooth as it used to be. It’s actually nice to have problem to troubleshoot.
 
No codes thrown. My stumbling idle was very apparent when the truck was warmed up before this last round of work as well. The idle is much better, but now I’m noticing the rough conditions during driving (but they are subtle).

So running down the (incomplete) list of culprits for rough idle in the trouble shooting section of the 1994 FSM in Toyota’s likely order:
1Oil Leakage
2Fuel Quality
3ECT sensor circuitEG-243
4EGR SystemEG-184
5Spark PlugIG-12
6DistributorIG-17
7Fuel Pressure RegulatorEG-263
8Fuel PumpEG-252
9Fuel LinesEG -277
10IAC ValveEG- 294
11CompressionEG - 27
12Piston RingEG - 134
13Volume Air Flow CircuitEG-240
14Valve ClearanceEG- 14
15Valve TimingEG - 73
16Timing ChainEG -87
17InjectorsEG - 266
18Ignition CircuitIG-5
19ECMEG - 317
20Cylinder HeadEG -51
Red numbers are things involved in my last round of work.

And here’s the list for hesitation and poor acceleration:

1Oil leakage
2Brake Drag
3Fuel quality
4EGREG-184
5Spark PlugIG-12
6DistributorIG-17
7CompressionEG-27
8TPS sensor circuitEG-238
9Volume Air Flow CircuitEG-240
10ECT sensor circuitEG- 243
11Intake air temp sensor circuitEG -242
12Heated O2 sensor circuitEG-315
13Fuel Pressure RegulatorEG-263
14Fuel PumpEG-252
15Fuel LinesEG-277
16Valve ClearanceEG - 14
17Valve TimingEG- 73
18InjectorsEG-266
19ECMEG-317

Anyhow it’s a long list, but it shouldn’t be impossible to figure this out.
 
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Looks like the gears and lockers conversation just got interrupted. From memory, a large portion of rough idle/hesitation/surging sort of problems have been tracked to the AFM.
 
baldilocks said:
Looks like the gears and lockers conversation just got interrupted. From memory, a large portion of rough idle/hesitation/surging sort of problems have been tracked to the AFM.
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Indeed. Actually everything feels pretty sideswiped at the moment. My father is on hospice and his days are numbered. So I’m spending my time with him. The cruiser remains a nice place to retreat to since all of its problems are solved with enough time and money.

AFM is fragile and NLA so I shall proceed with caution. Maybe a good cleaning will make it happy….or kill it.
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
Indeed. Actually everything feels pretty sideswiped at the moment. My father is on hospice and his days are numbered. So I’m spending my time with him. The cruiser remains a nice place to retreat to since all of its problems are solved with enough time and money.

AFM is fragile and NLA so I shall proceed with caution. Maybe a good cleaning will make it happy….or kill it.
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That's an odd thing to be nla. Or do you mean nla OEM?

Sorry to hear about your father.
 
Dusten said:
That's an odd thing to be nla. Or do you mean nla OEM?

Sorry to hear about your father.
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Good catch. Yes NLA OEM.
Or at least I’m nearly certain That’s the case.
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
Good catch. Yes NLA OEM.
Or at least I’m nearly certain That’s the case.
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I believe you on the OEM.

2225066010 - Toyota Air mass sensor. Mass Air Flow Sensor. OBS | Toyota Parts Overstock, Lakeland FL

Genuine Toyota Part # 2225066010 (22250-66010) - Air mass sensor. Mass Air Flow Sensor. OBS. Mass Air Flow Sensor. To 01/1995. 1993-94. Land Cruiser. Fits LAND CRUISER. Ships from Toyota Parts Overstock, Lakeland FL
parts.lakelandtoyota.com

If they really have one, that's a lot of money.

Cruiserparts lists rebuilt OEM ones
 
Dusten said:
I believe you on the OEM.

2225066010 - Toyota Air mass sensor. Mass Air Flow Sensor. OBS | Toyota Parts Overstock, Lakeland FL

Genuine Toyota Part # 2225066010 (22250-66010) - Air mass sensor. Mass Air Flow Sensor. OBS. Mass Air Flow Sensor. To 01/1995. 1993-94. Land Cruiser. Fits LAND CRUISER. Ships from Toyota Parts Overstock, Lakeland FL
parts.lakelandtoyota.com

If they really have one, that's a lot of money.

Cruiserparts lists rebuilt OEM ones
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Yes, $700 is a lot.

I’ve read nothing but tales of woe about cruiser parts. They seem to be not very good at selling parts. Lots of buyer beware threads IIRC.
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
Yes, $700 is a lot.

I’ve read nothing but tales of woe about cruiser parts. They seem to be not very good at selling parts. Lots of buyer beware threads IIRC.
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Yeah, never again.
 
TYM4FUN said:
Yeah, never again.
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The website is a “if it sounds too good to be true…”. Fortunately there are a few awesome dudes parting out LC and they have been super responsive. If I need to go the AFM replacement route I’ll keep y’all posted.
 
So anyone ever try to “clean” this unit with MAF cleaner! I’m assuming that if spray this yellowed plastic thing plus the chamber that’s the best can I do.

75965DBE-71CD-4573-8D1C-DECFC252427B.webp

It’s not super filthy, but there is a fine layer of dust and some grime especially at the edge of the door.

76C02D38-87C2-460B-A1B7-78A08E827F78.webp
 
PNWTreeOctopus said:
So anyone ever try to “clean” this unit with MAF cleaner! I’m assuming that if spray this yellowed plastic thing plus the chamber that’s the best can I do.

View attachment 2945299
It’s not super filthy, but there is a fine layer of dust and some grime especially at the edge of the door.

View attachment 2945298
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For the record I did conduct the FSM bench test, and all the resistance numbers test out…but my mud reading tells me that these things can rest out ok and still suck.
 
Well I decided not to spray any solvents (no matter how MAF friendly they claim to be) on my VAFM and I re installed everything. I’ll try checking those resistances when the engine is hot and see if they show anything concerning. If this thing isn’t broken I’m not going to throw new hart to find parts at it.

I do think my air intake tube is original. It’s a Toyota part and I can’t find any cracks in it, but I wonder if it just seals up really badly against the VAFM and the TB ns as the engine heats up it lets in unmetered air.

I guess I could spray some carb cleaner on it when the e hue is running and see if I can find a leak.

I will do a work through of this list posted earlier, but I’ve been spending all my free time with my dad. He cracked a joke today. Broke my heart.
 
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