Let's baseline my grandma's neglected, (20 year old to us) 1997 LX450

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Yeah, that left side looked sketchy to me. You can see a little hose below the T connector that connects to the firewall. That could probably be the stock firewall port you were looking for? My gut tells me that metal pipe is rusted so he bypassed it and routed the new rubber hose to the rear blower. It's actually working right now, but I'm going to do the rear heater delete.

View attachment 3056033

Does removing the rear heater do anything...? I mean, other than adding heat to the rear of the rig (I assume)? What does it DO for you?



Thanks,
 
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Does removing the rear heater do anything...? I mean, other than adding heat to the rear of the rig (I assume)? What does it DO for you?



Thanks,
Nevermind...I just found a thread about it. I answered my own question(s).
 
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Does removing the rear heater do anything...? I mean, other than adding heat to the rear of the rig (I assume)? What does it DO for you?



Thanks,
Peace of mind. given a previous mechanic has already bypassed the metal piping on the passenger side, the other side is going to rot away eventually which could cause a coolant to leak.

But I want to replace the rear blower and use that free space to fit an amp so I can get the sound coming out of new set of tweeters and better subwoofer.
 
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Peace of mind. given a previous mechanic has already bypassed the metal piping on the passenger side, the other side is going to rot away eventually which could cause a coolant to leak.

But I want to replace the rear blower and use that free space to fit an amp so I can get the sound coming out of new set of tweeters and better subwoofer.
So you're not going to utilize the WHOLEHOG amp/sub bracket in the back corner cargo area?

I know the Lexus had the sub/amp in a different location (Armrest/console) but that rear right cargo area is enough for a shallow 8-10" sub (apparently) and a slim amp. I've been thinking about that for my own rig, OR one of those slim sub/amp combo units.

Like this one - not to derail your thread.

slim amp sub.jpg
 
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So you're not going to utilize the WHOLEHOG amp/sub bracket in the back corner cargo area?

I know the Lexus had the sub/amp in a different location (Armrest/console) but that rear right cargo area is enough for a shallow 8-10" sub (apparently) and a slim amp. I've been thinking about that for my own rig, OR one of those slim sub/amp combo units.

Like this one - not to derail your thread.

View attachment 3056482
yes. I've been meaning to gut the center console of the small sub and the unused cd changer and probably use that new space for more room or charging ports for the passengers?

The rear quarter panel seems to be really popular buy over at Wits End so I could go with the sub/amp combo back there. Just have the slim amp under the passenger seat power the tweeters in the dashboard and the door speakers.
 
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The passenger side of the heater core is out. Next is to get at the driver side, which is proving to be a PITA to reach. I noticed the rust on the hoses. Those are probably the ones causing the water to turn brownish huh?

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Ozark Bushwalker

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Ozark Bushwalker

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@avdeveloper you might've mentioned it but have you inspected the metal rear heater lines above the cats and transmission? It's common for those to rust and crack as I understand it. There may be a rubber hose attached to them as well.
 
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@avdeveloper you might've mentioned it but have you inspected the metal rear heater lines above the cats and transmission? It's common for those to rust and crack as I understand it. There may be a rubber hose attached to them as well.
yeah the rear heater line on the passenger side turned out to have been bypassed by a mechanic years ago. the rubber hose was no longer connected to that hard line. I'm deleting it entirely anyway because we've never used the rear heater for years.
 
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yeah the rear heater line on the passenger side turned out to have been bypassed by a mechanic years ago. the rubber hose was no longer connected to that hard line. I'm deleting it entirely anyway because we've never used the rear heater for years.
In the seven years I've had mine, I've never even used the rear heater...and now, after reading multiple threads about it, I might just remove it. I don't have very many people in it most of the time and even when I do, the front heater is more than enough.

The BIGGEST advantages I've read is that 1) it kind of becomes a seat warmer, and 2) if you're radiator is running hot, having the extra vent is a huge help in dispersing the excess heat.

It's something I'll add to the list of changes and such...getting that extra space back under the seat would be nice though ;)
 
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In the seven years I've had mine, I've never even used the rear heater...and now, after reading multiple threads about it, I might just remove it. I don't have very many people in it most of the time and even when I do, the front heater is more than enough.

It's something I'll add to the list of changes and such...getting that extra space back under the seat would be nice though ;)
yup its one less potential failure to worry about
 
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The passenger side of the heater core is out. Next is to get at the driver side, which is proving to be a PITA to reach. I noticed the rust on the hoses. Those are probably the ones causing the water to turn brownish huh?
It's going to be tough say what is causing the water to be brownish because it's probably a number of things. I don't recall how intense of a baselining you are going for (i.e. budget/time evailable) and that will dictate whether you worry about it.

I had a lot of corrosion just about everywhere in the coolant system. I was able to do the rust remover treatment and get it run mostly clear before changing any hard pipes or hoses. Someone here reminded me not leave water in the system overnight and to add coolant right after the final flush to prevent new corrosion from forming.

That said, I was surprised how far I had to go to get rid of rusty/sludgy components after the flush. I ended up doing 100% of the hoses and a number of hard pipes that were not planned in advance. I also changed everything else: water pump, clutch fan, radiator, shroud, etc.... Was it necessary? I have no idea. I probably went too far and wasted some money. Although, it would have pissed me off to go through all of that work and end up with temps in the low 200s even though that is probably okay. Ultimately I feel good that the odds of overheating should be reduced. I also think some of my other issues relate to the fact that my engine compartment had been running warmer than normal for years even though it was not overheating in the classic sense of the word.
 
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It's going to be tough say what is causing the water to be brownish because it's probably a number of things. I don't recall how intense of a baselining you are going for (i.e. budget/time evailable) and that will dictate whether you worry about it.

I had a lot of corrosion just about everywhere in the coolant system. I was able to do the rust remover treatment and get it run mostly clear before changing any hard pipes or hoses. Someone here reminded me not leave water in the system overnight and to add coolant right after the final flush to prevent new corrosion from forming.

That said, I was surprised how far I had to go to get rid of rusty/sludgy components after the flush. I ended up doing 100% of the hoses and a number of hard pipes that were not planned in advance. I also changed everything else: water pump, clutch fan, radiator, shroud, etc.... Was it necessary? I have no idea. I probably went too far and wasted some money. Although, it would have pissed me off to go through all of that work and end up with temps in the low 200s even though that is probably okay. Ultimately I feel good that the odds of overheating should be reduced. I also think some of my other issues relate to the fact that my engine compartment had been running warmer than normal for years even though it was not overheating in the classic sense of the word.
hmm so far the amount of effort in terms of work to be done around the engine bay is just catching up on neglected maintenance from the past 10 years. atm my coolant temps range from 190 driving -195 at idle so its not too serious. I just bought one hard pipe between the PHH and the 90deg hose to the HCV. the components you replaced I'll be doing as well
 
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hmm so far the amount of effort in terms of work to be done around the engine bay is just catching up on neglected maintenance from the past 10 years. atm my coolant temps range from 190 driving -195 at idle so its not too serious. I just bought one hard pipe between the PHH and the 90deg hose to the HCV. the components you replaced I'll be doing as well
That sounds like great temps. I was starting to get above 220F before I parked it to get the work done.
 
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One of the items on my list when doing the cooling system is an actual temp gague, as I think this is for most of us.

I'm planning on replacing the Water pump and thermostat, even though there doesn't seem to be a NEED for it...but I look at it this way: If I'm going to pull the hoses and flush the system, I might as well get new components (AISIN) in there, right? So, new Heater Control Valve, WP, Thermo, water inlet/outlet, upper/lower/engine radiator hose, PHH....annnnnnd probably all the hoses in general.

Sadly, with a lot of things in my life, I'm a completionist.

I don't know what the PO did and did not do, so, I'm left with deciding to either roll the dice, or just purchase parts and take a full weekend in my buddy's garage and get the work done.


Being a completionist, don't ask me about my reading choices ;)
 
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Also, if it hasn't been posted yet...

Also, I think all of us need to frame this and put it up in a garage ;)

hose and clamp.jpeg
 
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One of the items on my list when doing the cooling system is an actual temp gague, as I think this is for most of us.

I'm planning on replacing the Water pump and thermostat, even though there doesn't seem to be a NEED for it...but I look at it this way: If I'm going to pull the hoses and flush the system, I might as well get new components (AISIN) in there, right? So, new Heater Control Valve, WP, Thermo, water inlet/outlet, upper/lower/engine radiator hose, PHH....annnnnnd probably all the hoses in general.

Sadly, with a lot of things in my life, I'm a completionist.

I don't know what the PO did and did not do, so, I'm left with deciding to either roll the dice, or just purchase parts and take a full weekend in my buddy's garage and get the work done.


Don't ask me about my reading choices ;)
Yeah I ordered all of them only because I'm not sure which components are aftermarket and which ones are original and old. So I want to replace as much as I can so I can reduce the risk of us being stranded the next time I take it out for a long drive. When I was in college, it died on me because of a coolant leak and it overheated. Luckily we didn't blow the head gasket.
Also, if it hasn't been posted yet...

Also, I think all of us need to frame this and put it up in a garage ;)

View attachment 3059723
haha! that and head gasket, even though I don't plan to tackle that myself
 
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Yeah I ordered all of them only because I'm not sure which components are aftermarket and which ones are original and old. So I want to replace as much as I can so I can reduce the risk of us being stranded the next time I take it out for a long drive. When I was in college, it died on me because of a coolant leak and it overheated. Luckily we didn't blow the head gasket.

haha! that and head gasket, even though I don't plan to tackle that myself
Yeah, the HG...that's a $4500 (minimum) repair at a Cruiser specialty shop here in PDX. And that's if it's JUST the HG. I don't have the knowledge, ability, or tools (and shop) to do the HG on my own. I'm good with turning wrenches and I've rebuilt a few 327's and 350's in my day, to include a 440...but this literal tractor motor...nah, I'll let the professionals do it ;)

Applause to those that DO tackle it on their own though. That's awesome! But, not a "rite of passage" I want to be a part of...I am, however, pulling a little from each paycheck and putting it into an account just for issues like that.

When I was in my 20's and 30's I never looked at saving money (mainly because of bad family examples and the thought that the money was "always going to be there")...it's now into my 40's that I'm seriously putting money away for unforeseen issues and savings, even adjusting my 401k to 10% (because my company matches 50% UPTO whatever I hand over) and putting as much as I can into three different savings accounts after bills are paid.

Weird how things happen like that.

But that's a whole therapy session and not Cruiser related, hahaha.
 
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One of the items on my list when doing the cooling system is an actual temp gague, as I think this is for most of us.

I'm planning on replacing the Water pump and thermostat, even though there doesn't seem to be a NEED for it...but I look at it this way: If I'm going to pull the hoses and flush the system, I might as well get new components (AISIN) in there, right? So, new Heater Control Valve, WP, Thermo, water inlet/outlet, upper/lower/engine radiator hose, PHH....annnnnnd probably all the hoses in general.

Sadly, with a lot of things in my life, I'm a completionist.

I don't know what the PO did and did not do, so, I'm left with deciding to either roll the dice, or just purchase parts and take a full weekend in my buddy's garage and get the work done.


Don't ask me about my reading choices ;)
You may want to get a UltraGauge so you can continuously monitor most of the things going on with your truck. (Not transmission temps though)

I have one and I monitor alternator output, engine temps, and O2 sensors most of the time and I can diagnose an issue before it's a problem.
 

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