LC 200 mods (1 Viewer)

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Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
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Saw a mica LX570 with Prinsu rack this week couldn't catch up to it to give them a card looked nice :cheers: Also saw a 13 + Black 200 with roof mounted bike rack on Pinhook going into Broussard maybe I'll catch him on the bike route or around town :D
 

Flipped Bezel

Here for a good time...not a long time!
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Dec 15, 2016
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429
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Pont Breaux, Louisiana
Good feedback :cheers: another one (Nitro) that can't build a cheap cap to protect the joint :bang: looks like they're only producing them for the 100 series right now.
View attachment 1653688

These guys look like they offer a 200 series UCA with sealed OE style balljoints. Looks like a fixed position balljoint but with +3 degrees of caster correction and rubber instead of urethane bushings. They also have a sealed top cap for protection from the elements/dirt and offset bushings if an application requires increased camber. Not sure how long they've been on the market but an interesting product nonetheless.

| Products
 

Volunteer

Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
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Sliders finally made it :bounce:, off to powdercoating tomorrow :cheers:

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Volunteer

Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
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Bayou State, LA
Not sure if its my starter acting up or the batteries in my remote but I've jumped in and hit the start button and I get that uncomfortable solonoid click but no start. Its happened once or twice the last few weeks so I'm replacing the batteries and the starter with the new version because the consensus is they go out between 125 - 150K mark and I have 130 and change. No time for starter issues.

Revised starter part# 28100-0S050
Best price out there is $346.14 at Boch Toyota but Mark at Team Toyota will match the price and he ships to club members for FREE :cheers:
 

Volunteer

Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
SILVER Star
Joined
May 23, 2006
Messages
7,924
Location
Bayou State, LA

Volunteer

Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
SILVER Star
Joined
May 23, 2006
Messages
7,924
Location
Bayou State, LA
This weekends project: drivers door actuator went out in Gulf Shores I already had the motors on the shelf so I tackled it this weekend. I also decided to tidy up a bit while I had the door skin off. Several screws were loose one of the mirror nuts was actually off and fell out when I got the door cover off so I applied loctite to everything. Also noticed my speaker was blown. I was looking for aftermarket replacements for the front door speakers part# jbl 861600wj50 I searched the 200 forum and talked to an installer at Ricky Smith that said go back with the factory. Crutchfield recommended a 4 ohm Kicker 6x9 but said the volume would be much lower than the 2 ohm JBL's that were in there so I held off. I reached out to Nick at B&M and he had some 3 ohm 6x9's that he suggested and sounded like the best compromise I'll install them tonight.

Amazon door lock actuator motors, $7 per motor, 3hrs labor save about $230 vs a whole new unit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDIFLAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Reference
Failed Door Lock Actuator R&R#post-11297472

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Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
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Finished up the drivers door. Nick at B &M had a set of 3 ohm 6x9's speakers to replace the blown JBL's not exactly what I wanted but better than the 4 ohm most had and I was ready to put it all back together. If I did it again I would get a set of 2 ohm like the JBL's that came out of it on Amazon for about $30 less. I also painted the last piece of scratched up grey trim on the grab handle I've been painting every trim piece with bull dog adhesive because its plastic followed by two coats of the duplicolor black bedliner material gives it a texture. I had already took apart the door lock panels and dash panels and painted them earlier. Will leave the door handles grey until they too get scratched up and ugly as well. Seemed like every grey plastic piece was scratched on this 200 made it look more worn and weathered than it was nothing major I just had to look at it everyday. Will repeat process and tackle the pass door this weekend :cheers:

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Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
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Back to back brake jobs on the rear :mad: 3 weeks ago I had O'reilly turn the rotors (did a piss poor job of it) and put the trusty Wager pads on it. On the test drive to break them in I could tell the rotors were not true with vibration in the pedal. I ordered some Wagner rotors and dove back into it this weekend. I went back to O'reilly gave them the old rotors and pads they ruined of which they credited me for turning the rotors and gave me a new set of pads. The rear is good to go now but I still plan to go back and replace the TRD pads I put in the front and replace them with the the wagner as well. Thats the first bit of advice I got in the 200 forum I disagree with and wish I would have just stayed with the wagner pads I've been using the last 15 years without issue. I took the rear mud flaps off while at it and trimmed the flap away and kept the inner fender portions. Funny how such a small change gives it a different look. Will do the front as well when I dive back into the front brakes. Hope you ALL had good weekends :cheers:

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Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
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Next on the to do list Redarc brake controller, @kjnarmyfj this is the one I was telling you about.


Blank for adjuster.

Install tips
 
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new iberia la
thanks ill check that out !... I learned the hard way also with orylie doing the front rotors on christens raw before we took the 6500 mile trip last summer , I ended up having to pull them off nd just went to my buds machine shop and he put em on his old 1963 lathe and them things were off so bad when he spun and miced them , but after they were within a thousands lol , and the pads I got from the big O succeed they were dusty and squeaky , sooo I went to mission and got Toyota past for 12 bucks more .
 
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Joined
Oct 19, 2012
Messages
129
Location
Alexandria, LA
Back to back brake jobs on the rear :mad: 3 weeks ago I had O'reilly turn the rotors (did a piss poor job of it) and put the trusty Wager pads on it. On the test drive to break them in I could tell the rotors were not true with vibration in the pedal. I ordered some Wagner rotors and dove back into it this weekend. I went back to O'reilly gave them the old rotors and pads they ruined of which they credited me for turning the rotors and gave me a new set of pads. The rear is good to go now but I still plan to go back and replace the TRD pads I put in the front and replace them with the the wagner as well. Thats the first bit of advice I got in the 200 forum I disagree with and wish I would have just stayed with the wagner pads I've been using the last 15 years without issue. I took the rear mud flaps off while at it and trimmed the flap away and kept the inner fender portions. Funny how such a small change gives it a different look. Will do the front as well when I dive back into the front brakes. Hope you ALL had good weekends :cheers:

I switched to the front TRD pads as soon as I bought my 200. I notice that they bite better than oem, but man they make a lot of dust. What are your impressions with Wagner vs TRD?
 

Volunteer

Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
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I switched to the front TRD pads as soon as I bought my 200. I notice that they bite better than oem, but man they make a lot of dust. What are your impressions with Wagner vs TRD?

Agree I couldn't stand all the additional brake dust its 3/4 times more dust than I got from the the OEM/Wagner pads and now that I've had the wagner pads on for a bit I don't recognize any less bite when braking going from TRD to the Wagner but then again I only had them on the front and not front and rear. I've run the wagner pads on all of our vehicles for many years with success in brake wear, stop ability and minimal dust. I wasn't impressed by the TRD pads at all
 
Joined
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Messages
129
Location
Alexandria, LA
Agree I couldn't stand all the additional brake dust its 3/4 times more dust than I got from the the OEM/Wagner pads and now that I've had the wagner pads on for a bit I don't recognize any less bite when braking going from TRD to the Wagner but then again I only had them on the front and not front and rear. I've run the wagner pads on all of our vehicles for many years with success in brake wear, stop ability and minimal dust. I wasn't impressed by the TRD pads at all

I haven't touched the rear, but I am planning on replacing both whenever I do.

Separate note, did you finish your rear storage with UHMW slides? I have to leave one of the jump seats down in the back for my 6yo, but miss having drawers in the back.
 

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Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
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I haven't touched the rear, but I am planning on replacing both whenever I do.

Separate note, did you finish your rear storage with UHMW slides? I have to leave one of the jump seats down in the back for my 6yo, but miss having drawers in the back.

I know the feeling I had a deck/storage system in my 80 for most of the 10 years I drove it and also did the same to my DBLCB Taco so I always had my tools, recovery equipment and gear at the ready and organized. I've finished the aluminum deck frame for the 200 just waiting on a friend to get me some good quality ply to finish the deck top and drawers. I'm certainly ready to finish it :)
 

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Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
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Two known issues on the 200's is the radiator (faulty plastic casting of the radiator) giving out and the starter solenoid once you approach the 120 - 150K mile range. Well I'm now at 142K and my starter solenoid decided to call it quits last week while trying to leave the office at lunch. I tricked it with multiple tries and effort into one more start and got it over to Paul's to save me a tow bill on top of it. I already had the newer style starter sitting on the shelf since last year so I just needed to get it over to Paul. Several threads here discussing the starter replacmeent but most of the videos on youtube show it done on the Tundra and its a different animal on the 200. Ultimately the best case scenario is you remove it without having to remove the exhaust manifold like the FSM calls for. That's the way we approached it and a did it successfully but its a real bear and you really need two people to do it that way. Big thanks to PK @lostinafog for all his help :cheers:

New starter part# 28100 – 0S050

The original starter leaves little to no wiggle room and its a tight fit behind the starter shield. Here is the original starter vs the new replacement. (Not my pic borrowed from another thread)
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To remove the original starter I conceded to throwing away the original starter heat shield and just ordering a new one because we didn't see a way to get it out without distroying it. Its tightly molded around the starter. We also had to take the solenoid off inside the engine compartment to get it out through this hole. It will go but you have have to rotate and push things around until you get it to slip out. It takes a lot of patience. We actually took the inside exhaust manifold nut off that helped with clearance. The stud itself wouldn't come out but it would have made things a bit easier. The new starter will go back through the same way the old one came out using the same process of rotating and pushing things around until you get it in. If you can remember the way it was clocked and rotated when you pull it out and use that to get the new one in it'll really save you some time and effort.

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Additional parts needed.

  1. New starter heat shield
  2. Oil dipstick tube o'ring
  3. 3 replacement inner fender clips
  4. Solenoid wire pigtail for the wire that clips to the blade. It was brittle from the heat and broke.
Some threads I found with helpful info on the starter.

Replacing the starter on the trail.

Real time STARTER help
 
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