Redarc trailer brake mounting? (1 Viewer)

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HDJdreams

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I just got the Redarc trailer brake controller. Love that I can mount the knob in a switch blank!

Now just trying to figure out a tidy place to secure the controller out of sight. I have the panel below the steering wheel off, but the knee airbag seems to take most of that real estate.

Where did you guys mount yours? (Pics would be great). I REALLY don’t want to have anything where it can be seen (and snagged by feet or knees). That was a problem with traditional controllers in previous vehicles.

Is there room under the gearshift cover in the center?
 
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I mounted the switch on the left console wing and the brain on the removable plastic plate above the driver’s footwell (the one where the tpms reset switch is located).

I would have used a switch blank if I had one, but this ended up being a better spot as it comes naturally to hand without the need to look down for it.
 
My redarc is zip tied away behind the drivers kick panel and knob is in switch blank above left knee.
I was under the impression it isn't supposed to be zip tied, but rather stuck on or self tapping screwed into place.

-Chris
 
I have mine placed with the 3M plastic velcro, then put a zip tie around it to hold in place.
Yup. Almost exactly the same. Just thought a read a zip tie alone is bad for this type of brake controller
 
I believe the instruction say don’t use a zip tie to secure. As in, use something as the primary holder (3M tape). I believe they also stated that you want to make sure there is no way it can come loose during operation as that could activate or deactivate the brakes.
 
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I believe the instruction say don’t use a zip tie to secure. As in, use something as the primary holder (3M tape). I believe they also stated that you want to make sure there is no way it came come loose during operation as that could activate or deactivate the brakes.
Aaaaaand I’m going to re-check it now just to be sure.
 
I believe the instruction say don’t use a zip tie to secure. As in, use something as the primary holder (3M tape). I believe they also stated that you want to make sure there is no way it came come loose during operation as that could activate or deactivate the brakes.

Great point. This is true of majority of the aftermarket brake controllers. The inertial sensor is in box or brains. It's the way the controller can detect how much deceleration there is, and proportionately apply the trailer brakes.

It doesn't sense the brake pedal directly, only the deceleration rate. Which interestingly means, that if the tow vehicle brakes aren't working or actually slowing the vehicle down, the trailer brakes never get applied. Things that make you go hrmmm. Hence another reason for the need to manually actuate the trailer brakes in the off chance of vehicle brake failure.
 
Just to throw a couple more options into the thread, I mounted my controller after work today. I throughbolted (screwed) the controller ECU to the left of the factory pigtail location. Then I put the control knob in the upper right pop out to the right of the column:

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^^ I like that blank. Where did you get that? I hacked up an original switch blank and i'm not 100% happy with how it turned out.
 
X2, nice blank. Where did you get it?
 
Thanks! Funny I got my Redarc from Etrailer, I listed 2013 TLC as my vehicle . Would have been very helpful if it had suggested this blank. Ordered now.
 
I noticed the harness that plugs into the Redarc was plenty long for the mounting location I used (same as suggested by @weaselox with 3M Velcro) and that the factory harness had a lead for lights.

My Switch-Pro needed a tap into the lights and was using a fuse tap (boo!)

So I unpinned the factory harness plug and pinned the Redarc harness to the factory connector instead of butt splices.

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I got these terminal pins, worked great:

“We could offer a better diagnosis if we were able to see the unseated terminals in their entirety, but from the looks of it, it seems like TS series terminals in both 2.3mm and 4.8mm bladewidths.

My initial suggestion would be to try CONN-100972 and CONN-100069.

The latter is actually the sealed version, but you can easily use it in an unsealed application if you snip a bit of the excess material on the "wings" that grip the wire housing (as it is meant to wrap around a wire seal it will have a bit too much slack without it)


Regards,
Chris Smith
Ballenger Motorsports, Inc.

T: (804) 915-7201
F: (804) 433-3825
E: sales@bmotorsports.com
http://www.bmotorsports.com

When I got the Redarc, I got the vehicle connector with it, hoping it would be plug and play with the Redarc (not). So I ended up using the factory connector.

PM me if you want the aftermarket connector to that plugs into factory harness and has bare wires on other end.

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^^ I like that blank. Where did you get that? I hacked up an original switch blank and i'm not 100% happy with how it turned out.


Sorry for the delay, but I see you found it:cool:

I buy all my Redarc from a buddy that’s a dealer, but he doesn’t really advertise it.
 

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