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Landcruiser still not running, need HELP!!

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Alexstang9, Apr 27, 2017.

  1. Alexstang9

    Alexstang9

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    Hello everybody!

    I am very new to this forum and relatively new to LandCruisers. I just bought my mom's '94 with 165k Miles. This is where the problems begin....the car sat in the garage for almost 6 years of not running or moving.

    I changed the power steering pump a few months ago because that was the last thing I remember my mom saying it needed done. Got it running after that by changing the battery and it ran very rough.

    Fast forward a few months and this is where I currently am. The lc has new oil, spark plugs, dizzy cap, ignition coil. The problem now is that I am getting no spark. I am getting 12v at the ignition coil and at the end of the wire that goes from the ignition coil to the dizzy. However I am not getting spark at the ignition coil or the dizzy cap, I imagine this is because there is no circuit being completed.

    The fuel pump works and no fuses are bad, the fuel pump relay is also not blown and works. My suspicion is that it is something with the ecm, I know these rarely go bad but I'm starting to run out of ideas. Any help will be greatly appreciated! Please let me know if you all need any more information!

    P.S. The head gasket is not blown and there is no oil leak or any leak for the matter.
     
  2. flintknapper

    flintknapper

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  3. BigAxeJack

    BigAxeJack

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    What's your check engine light doing? Does your CEL come on and stay on? If so check codes. Does it come on briefly and go back out? If so, the ECM is active. If it doesn't come on at all, either the bulb is out or the ECM is not responding.

    Did you open the VAF? It's the volumetric air flow meter, an aluminum box on the intake air pipe. It has a wire going to a plug and two Phillips screws on either side of the plug. If you unscrew these and pull, you've probably broken a solder joint in the VAF. This will cause a no-start with no codes.

    There is a great no-start checklist somewhere in the FAQ. It has helped me before.
     
  4. LS1FJ40

    LS1FJ40 SILVER Star

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    Rule #1: When you try to start the truck does the CEL light up (along with the other start up lights) briefly?

    If it doesn't than it is most likely the fusible links. Check this and report back before randomly checking things.
     
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  5. Alexstang9

    Alexstang9

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    Hey guys,

    The check engine light does NOT light up at all when accessory mode and when cranking. The VAF is also brand new, as the old one somebody had yanked out and broke. However I don't suspect the vaf causing the issue as the lc did run briefly with out the whole intake hose/vaf assembly off.
     
  6. Alexstang9

    Alexstang9

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    I'm going to be picking up a new rotor for the dizzy today, and while I was looking at the cap for it, there is this plug with four wire that come from the ecu. I tested to see if I would get any voltage out of it with the ignition on and in accessory to no avail. Does anybody know what this plug is?
     
  7. jdayment

    jdayment SILVER Star

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    @LS1FJ40 already told you where to start most likely fusible links are brok it is the set of wires going to a black box at the battery. No CEL usually means the ECM is not getting power. Start there and see if you are getting power to the EFI circuit.
     
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  8. Alexstang9

    Alexstang9

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    Sorry fellas, studying for finals and keep forgetting a few things, the fusible links have already been changed.
     
  9. LS1FJ40

    LS1FJ40 SILVER Star

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    Seriously. Stop. Nothing you do is going to make your 80 run if you are not getting a CEL when you try to start it. Period. Full stop.

    Order two fusible links from the dealership and you will have them the next day. Install one set. Put the other set in your glove compartment as a spare. They are about $13-15 each.

    Don't do anything else until you've done this. Because you are just wasting your time and everyone else's.

    You are not the first person to have this issue. You won't be the last.
     
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  10. LS1FJ40

    LS1FJ40 SILVER Star

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    Or if you have the time, order them from Joey. @NLXTACY is a good dude. Order a fire extinguisher mount so your rig doesn't burn down or so you can be a hero and save someone else's car from burning to the ground, like me. And order some other stuff that you don't need because he makes incredible stuff.

    Fuseable Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser
     
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  11. LS1FJ40

    LS1FJ40 SILVER Star

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    When? By you?
     
  12. LS1FJ40

    LS1FJ40 SILVER Star

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    Are you getting 12V to the brass bolt in the fuse box under the hood?
     
  13. Alexstang9

    Alexstang9

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    A friend of mine that works at Toyota changed the fusible links and I am getting 12 volts.
     
  14. RyRoRyan

    RyRoRyan

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    Ok, for the question no one has asked yet...did it run before you changed the dizzy and coil out, and would not start after you changed these parts out?
     
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  15. LS1FJ40

    LS1FJ40 SILVER Star

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    As in did he get the distributor back to TDC or is he rotated 180 degrees...
     
  16. bloc

    bloc SILVER Star

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    The connector on top of the distributor is for the cam angle sensor wiring.
     
  17. RyRoRyan

    RyRoRyan

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    Not really thinking that since he is stating he is getting no spark. He would be getting spark of some kind even if he didnt have it lined up right. I am just trying to trace down the point of, it was running and then I did "this", and now it doesnt run. Figure out what "this" is and double check that it was all done correctly.
     
  18. Tedward

    Tedward 95 LC SILVER Star

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    Ancient Chinese proverb from
    Zen and The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

    When you have a problem....go back to the last thing you 'fixed'
     
  19. inkpot

    inkpot SILVER Star

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    I did not see any reference to pulling the dizzy. He did cap and rotor,
     
  20. BILT4ME

    BILT4ME

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    No One can really follow WHAT he did, or in what order.

    Go back to what you took apart.

    By the way, the plug wires on the CAP do not go in order around the CAP in 1,2,3,4,5,6. It is 1,5,3,6,2,4. In the direction of rotation of the rotor.

    The cylinders are numbered front to back, 1,2,3,4,5,6.

    Make sure that the wiring harness unplugged from the distributor gets plugged back in.

    Make sure the coil wire from the coil goes back and is plugged in to the center hole on the distributor cap.

    This is what happens when you randomly start changing stuff. You introduce NEW problems to confuse the issue further.

    Diagnose the problem, THEN replace what is necessary. Unfortunately, too many actual shop technicians think this same way because they didn't learn PROPER troubleshooting. If the computer says it's the fuel system, then replace everything in the fuel system.....

    I shouldn't even post this because I'm just gonna piss off somebody.....