Land Cruiser Electronics

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Engineer8000 said:
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I have service manuals for all of the radios used in the 70s and 80s Toyota cars and trucks. I stock the common repair parts.


If you have any other old electronics needing repaired, lets talk.

Russ Cusick
President, Cape Fear Electronics LLC
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Russ,
I have been working to figure out an ignition issue with my 1976 fj40. I was going to abandon my old ignition system and enter the world of full electronic ignition but have failed so far. The issue was intermittent with the eold system so I suspected the black box or semi electronic igniter. Do you test and repair those units? If so how can I go about having it repaired?
 
Engineer8000 said:
I generally stay away from the ignition stuff due to liability. I will check the 76 manual for any troubleshooting ideas.
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Awesome anything you can do will be helpful. I have some ability but just a multimeter to test with. Thanks
 
Engineer8000 said:
It controls the VSV for distributor advance, not sure what issue you are having.

I do testing and repairs for the various emissions modules but not ignitors.

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Got it and thanks for the information. My problem start with an intermittent ignition issue. One new distributor and pentronix ignition later and I have no spark. Pentronix helped me figure out I received a bad unit and I have an igniter II on the way. Not real excited about the electronic system now that I have already had a bad part so I may be looking at going back original if it doesn’t work out.
 
I have an original speaker from a 78. FJ40 would like for you to restore if that’s a possibility. Let me know.
 
Here you go.
IMG_7266.webp


IMG_7267.webp
 
They don't do it, but, if you Discord with them, you might find someone who does...
skylabsaudio.com

Services

Important Service Update It comes with a heavy heart that, effective immediately, Skylabs is ending receiver, amplifier and turntable service/repairs for equipment NOT purchased from Skylabs. In addition, we will no longer be providing a speaker re-foaming service. We will, however, continue...
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The hazard switch “waffle” type connector was used from 9/72 -8/77. You’ll notice the switch side connector has 9 pins but the harness side had only 7 from about 12/74 - 8/77 when they changed to an updated switch/connector and pin configuration.

IMG_1987.png


The reason the 1975-77 harnesses only had 7 pins when switch had 9 pins was Toyota redesigned the circuit to save money on copper. A single pin now controlled both front and rear lights on each side. A consequence of this is sometimes a burned melted pin on the Hazard switch connector due to the single pin driving TWO lights causing overheating of the pin..

The pin design must be load related. In my view, the hazard switch is the most complex circuit on our 40’s.
 
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Engineer8000 said:
The hazard switch has more conductors (9). The previous version plug used smaller terminals. Maybe this was a way to get a larger terminal surface in a reasonable space? SAE J910 requires testing with max bulb load (without flasher) over a temperature range. Did the hazard lights change in 73, resulting in a greater load on the switch and connectors? Just guessing.
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Ackcruisers said:
The hazard switch “waffle” type connector was used from 9/72 -8/77. You’ll notice the switch side connector has 9 pins but the harness side had only 7 from about 12/74 - 8/77 when they changed to an updated switch/connector and pin configuration.

View attachment 3824628

The reason the 1975-77 harnesses only had 7 pins when switch had 9 pins was Toyota redesigned the circuit to save money on copper. A single pin now controlled both front and rear lights on each side. A consequence of this is sometimes a burned melted pin on the Hazard switch connector due to the single pin driving TWO lights causing overheating of the pin..

The pin design must be load related. In my view, the hazard switch is the most complex circuit on our 40’s.
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.

- the same production date-year spac. a FJ55 has the same circa era waffle-connector HAZARD switch , but it has a 10 wire configuration , as in all 10 connector bays are occupied , it is NOT a 9-wire HAZARD .....


Any ideas what for / the why factor here Russ or mr Paul ?

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FJ55 10-wire .webp
 
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@Engineer8000 the term “dumper diode” is new to me. It’s essentially a flyback diode then?

Tangent story: I used one of the grounded 40 Series turn signal lenses as an on/off indicator in a guitar pedal I built. It’s a tremolo circuit and the indicator light (a diode secured behind the 40 Series lens) flashes in time with the tremolo rate. These things have other uses!

IMG_0248.webp

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Ok, carry on!
 
Engineer8000 said:
I have been working out my 3FE check engine light (CEL) circuit. In the FJ62 the ECU provides the ground for the CEL, the power is from the "Gauge" fuse

[A
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1




If you get a new BA9 bulb & remove the glass globe

Mix-up some fast-cure JB weld and cue-tip the inside area that you have now freed-up on any solder , or conductive material . It’s an open bowl ….

🥣 Good-Nice skim kote it maybe 2 applications, now you have a pre-insulated BA9 “ dummy-socket of sorts …

make-sense Russ ?

, then arrange your 3 leads / conductors in a pattern that avoids contact with the brass / tinned housing …

The 2 bayonets will engage in the socket , that now will press-click during the chrome lens bezels ..

Remember : the lenses are simple old age and time KOITo plastic cast resins ,

NOT glass like I once thought 💭 they were ..🤔

I have successfully applied “ NU-FINISH “ the little orange plastic bottle with black writing , to a good quality cotton ONLY cue tip , low speed drill or dremmle tool on LOW only , plenty of liquid nu-finish , do NOT let it heat up or the little baby KOITo will see a fast and certain Doom …

After you polish out to where the nu-finish begins to dry do to the H2O & Solvent blend liquids evaporate ….

STOP ,🛑 let it dry first a while till both completely dry and cool to the touch , the cue tip by finger tips only …

I emphasize the heat / BTU factor here because I had toasted more then a few to
get to the sweet spot inside and outside each lens …

It was a total brown-frown to find out they were not JIS Colored Glass many years ago …😕

But now we know and NU-FINISH is the way …


Hope this helps Russ ..,
 
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Curious if you have any notion on the Yazaki part numbers for the green-colored 1, 2 and 3-pin connectors in the engine bay (fuel cut solenoid, igniter/coil/carb fan, and 3-pin voltage regulator/alternator connectors). (or do you have any for sale) They seem impossible to find.

Also, do you have any inventory / a good source on headlight switches with the integrated rheostat for dimming?
 
Do you by chance have a lead on a harness repair manual (or any for sale) for a 78 FJ40? Googling has not done me any favors on that front (I have engine / chassis repair manuals but I don't see part #s)
 
Engineer8000 said:
Vintage Teq Parts is the best resource for original connectors and OEM switches that I know.
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I think it's worth noting that there are many many problems with this supplier, and would not advise doing business with them. If you're bored here's a link to the more than 14 bad seller threads VTEQ bad seller threads
 
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