- Thread starter
- #121
sure.
Lake City Limo
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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sure.
- Thread starter
- #122
Good day. I know what I have and looks like this will be easy enough to make right
All the doors and floors are scrubbed and scraped and cleaned with Zepp orange.
Bad parts are cut out.
New metal will go down with some POR15 and Lizard Skin
It’s unreal how dumb this drain is that dumps into the body mount.
All the doors and floors are scrubbed and scraped and cleaned with Zepp orange.
Bad parts are cut out.
New metal will go down with some POR15 and Lizard Skin
It’s unreal how dumb this drain is that dumps into the body mount.
Planned obsolescence isn’t just for electronics!
Digging through the spare parts shelves in the garage to start collecting stuff for the 2F swap, and ran across my stash of parts from the ‘73 and ‘74 FJ40s I had about 10 years back. Because RACECAR. And eBay. The Mallory distributor is actually for a 2F. I’m guessing it has been discontinued for a long time.
- Thread starter
- #125
Next up is patching the cancer in the doors caused by plugged drain holes and wet fiberglass insulation.
A layer of Noico on the well cured rust converter. The bottom 3” get soaked in fluid film.
A layer of Noico on the well cured rust converter. The bottom 3” get soaked in fluid film.
- Thread starter
- #126
Two doors down. The rears only needed small patches. I repaired one handle. Very pleased with the results. Both doors shut like vault doors.
- Thread starter
- #127
The last few hours on the Limo have been deep in the pig guts. This is the stuff that is frustrating because you see just how bad the design of the body mounts, fenders and rockers are ans they just kill these trucks.
The doors all got finished up with the Noico and rust treatment yesterday but the passenger front door was so rusted at the inside bottom that the inner door actually separated from the outer. I think I have a good patch worked out that will keep from having to weld and ruin the paint. It’s curing overnight before I will know for sure. Hope so. I think it’s going to be good.
Next I started in on getting all the mud out of the front fenders, rockers and body mounts. I think the drivers side rocker will end up needing some sheet metal and paint blending like Dave did on Bucky but that will be later. For now it all gets treated and sealed up with a floor BobM panel and some sheet metal I cut and weld in.
I got the floor pan fitted but need to make some patches before it goes in.
Nasty work for sure. I like to dry clean these cavities as often as possible versus water just to try not to introduce more mud to the crevices
The doors all got finished up with the Noico and rust treatment yesterday but the passenger front door was so rusted at the inside bottom that the inner door actually separated from the outer. I think I have a good patch worked out that will keep from having to weld and ruin the paint. It’s curing overnight before I will know for sure. Hope so. I think it’s going to be good.
Next I started in on getting all the mud out of the front fenders, rockers and body mounts. I think the drivers side rocker will end up needing some sheet metal and paint blending like Dave did on Bucky but that will be later. For now it all gets treated and sealed up with a floor BobM panel and some sheet metal I cut and weld in.
I got the floor pan fitted but need to make some patches before it goes in.
Nasty work for sure. I like to dry clean these cavities as often as possible versus water just to try not to introduce more mud to the crevices
Pigeaten
GOLD Star
Nolen, what are you using for rust converter?
- Thread starter
- #129
This stuff is magic
Rust Converter Aerosol
Rust Converter is Now Available in a Convenient Aerosol Spray Quick and easy-to-use, Rust Converter Aerosol formula stops rust on iron and steel surfaces and converts it into a black coating that seals out moisture and protects against future corrosion. No brushes, rollers or clean up necessary...
www.theruststore.com
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2006
- Threads
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Nolen,
Curious how you are fixing the support under the driver floor pan. Was it salvageable?
- Thread starter
- #133
Thank goodness all the body mounts channels are rock solid
I had to cut mine out and replace them with new metal from @bobm
All this one requires is sheet metal and such
- Thread starter
- #134
Driver side is finished
This was by far the worst side
Passenger should be easier
Taking the day off from it tomorrow for the first time in 9 days to go rescue some pig parts from the scrapyard for the Warthog
Has to go to Tractor Supply for something and grabbed a horse mat to cut for the cargo area floor
This was by far the worst side
Passenger should be easier
Taking the day off from it tomorrow for the first time in 9 days to go rescue some pig parts from the scrapyard for the Warthog
Has to go to Tractor Supply for something and grabbed a horse mat to cut for the cargo area floor
Red sky at night, sailors delight.
(to round out your Instagram post from the other day)
Pigeaten
GOLD Star
Wheres the Ornch?Floor pans looks factory. Love da Sky sunset. This is Sunrise
View attachment 2532172View attachment 2532177View attachment 2532178View attachment 2532187
Is this pattern of rust typical of 55s? Front half is rust, back half is pristine. Just strikes me as odd to have such a clear dividing line.
- Thread starter
- #140
I’ve never seen a 55 with the rear floor area rusted out. Always the front.
Everything about the design of this model leads to rust. I’ll walk you through the idiocy of the drains and such when you visit again.
Everything about the design of this model leads to rust. I’ll walk you through the idiocy of the drains and such when you visit again.