So - as I remove bolts from my 74 fj40 I find that about half bust. I am getting ready to bust open the "easy outs" and settle in for a project. Does anybody knwo od a particular kind of busted bolt remover that works better than another - or are they all about the same? All new bolts are going in with anti-seize. Speaking of new bolts - does anyone make a "bolt pack" for the fj40? I see SOR has a pack with some bolts included for doors, hood ect but I am looking for something that is pretty comprehensive for the entire cruiser. If not - maybe there is a hit parade of the five most commmon bolts in the 74 - 40 with mm and pitch. By the time I am done with this beast I will have replaced pretty much most of them (at the rate I am going now) Thanks
Killing off 74FJ40 bolts one at a time
- Thread starter mattcobb
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Can't answer the first part, but I know 4 Wheel Auto sells a complete stainless bolt kit (scroll to bottom of page) for $250 CAD.
-Tim
-Tim
get a can of "PB blaster" it helps loosen bolts, also an impact wrench works wonders. And you can usually heat things up with a propane torch and bolts magically loosen up.
My problem is usually the fact that I am so friggin' strong I snap the bolts off and then I have to drill them out...
My problem is usually the fact that I am so friggin' strong I snap the bolts off and then I have to drill them out...
My experience is that an EZ out is nearly worthless to counterproductive on rusted bolts and screws. There is nothing worse than a busted EZ out in a blind hole. On the body bolts, I just center punch them and drill them out with a drill nearly the same diameter as the hole in the nut. It doesn't really matter if you nick the threads in the hole. In cast iron, just weld an nut on what is left and turn it out while still hot. Works great. SOR sells OEM cadmium plated hardware in bulk.
CCOTs has a deal on fender bolts and hardtop bolts. I haven't priced bulk nuts & bolts, but they usually have good deals. Search through the old posts, too, because the bolt issue (or how to avoid paying .85 each for them) comes up pretty frequently.
Ditto on the propane torch, I don't even bother trying a rusty bolt on my 66 without torching it first. Even then . . .
Throw the EZouts away and get a metric pitch and diameter guage and taps (good ones) for the three or four most common sizes and pitches I can't recall the #s just now but you've seen 'em (and broken them), the 10, 12 & 14 heads with 1.00 and 1.25 pitches. Oh, and the corresponding drill bits (also good ones). You'll get good at drilling and tapping! Deep down inside, all cruiserheads are iron age guys and gals! Satisfy that primal need to dominate metal!
Ditto on the propane torch, I don't even bother trying a rusty bolt on my 66 without torching it first. Even then . . .
Throw the EZouts away and get a metric pitch and diameter guage and taps (good ones) for the three or four most common sizes and pitches I can't recall the #s just now but you've seen 'em (and broken them), the 10, 12 & 14 heads with 1.00 and 1.25 pitches. Oh, and the corresponding drill bits (also good ones). You'll get good at drilling and tapping! Deep down inside, all cruiserheads are iron age guys and gals! Satisfy that primal need to dominate metal!
I'm reassembling everything on my 74 with stainless and grade 8 hardware. THe most common sizes are #8 and #12, some are 1.25 and others 1.5 or even 1.75 pitch. You are best just pulling a bunch of them and putting them in labelled ziplock baggies and going down to your local hardware shop with a comprehensive bolt section and replacing them that way. Home depot is useless, don't even bother trying them. You need a local, independant place.
The SOR kits are OK, but I ended up with a bunch of extras and a a lot of items not in the kit.
The SOR kits are OK, but I ended up with a bunch of extras and a a lot of items not in the kit.
I ended up drilling and retaping just about all the bolt holes on my truck. use the pb and/or torch, if they snap i'd say drill rather than use the ez out.
the only holes i don't have tapped on my rig are the 2 with the snapped ez outs in them. they burn up drill bits quick.
I bought the SOR SS hardware kit and it was short a few nuts. I use antiseize on everything.
best money I ever spent was on a tap and die set.
the only holes i don't have tapped on my rig are the 2 with the snapped ez outs in them. they burn up drill bits quick.
I bought the SOR SS hardware kit and it was short a few nuts. I use antiseize on everything.
best money I ever spent was on a tap and die set.
a left handed drill bit 
good ahead and laugh now, BUT i know they work
just keep drilling bigger till the bolt spins out on it's own or you can retap the threads one or the other'll happen.
with mine most spun out by the second bit.
the bit will try and spin it out
the heat from drilling will help as well as the lube you use with the drilling process.
good ahead and laugh now, BUT i know they work
just keep drilling bigger till the bolt spins out on it's own or you can retap the threads one or the other'll happen.
with mine most spun out by the second bit.
the bit will try and spin it out
the heat from drilling will help as well as the lube you use with the drilling process.
McMaster.com has anything you want. When I took my FJ40 a part I keep the hardware. Seems there were only a few sizes used on the body, mostly 6mmx1.0 and 8mmx1.25. Some 10mmx1.5 in there, but not on the body. Don't remember the lengths. Just sort through, size them, and order in bulk. Way cheaper than the local hardware store. Oh, I bought stainless, and it really didn't hurt much.
For getting some of those things out I found an overnight soak of your oil of choice, along with a hand-held impact driver drove most of them out. It worked especially well on the phillip screws. EZ outs worked OK, screw extractors worked OK. Most of them I drilled out. And yes, the left had bits work. On some of my bolts if there was a cavity behind the reminder the right-hand bit would wind them inward once they were hot.
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For getting some of those things out I found an overnight soak of your oil of choice, along with a hand-held impact driver drove most of them out. It worked especially well on the phillip screws. EZ outs worked OK, screw extractors worked OK. Most of them I drilled out. And yes, the left had bits work. On some of my bolts if there was a cavity behind the reminder the right-hand bit would wind them inward once they were hot.
\
pappy said:
no lie there.
their paper catalog is about as thick as a large city phone book, and the print is about the same size, maybe smaller....
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You can try this
I've tried all of those commercial products that are supposed to unsieze nuts and bolts nothing that I have ever used works better than mixing transmission fluid and brake fluid , half and half, just put it in an oil can, squirt it on and wait about a half hour or so for it to work in.
I've tried all of those commercial products that are supposed to unsieze nuts and bolts nothing that I have ever used works better than mixing transmission fluid and brake fluid , half and half, just put it in an oil can, squirt it on and wait about a half hour or so for it to work in.
Another good choice is Kroil, "the oil that creeps". A little lasts a long time - I bought a gallon several years back, and apply it with a needle top bottle.
Haven't broken a bolt since I started using it. It seems to just turn the rust into a red paste.
Oh, and if you mix it 50/50 with Hoppe's #9 powder solvent, it makes a heck of a gun-barrel cleaner, too!
Kirk
Haven't broken a bolt since I started using it. It seems to just turn the rust into a red paste.
Oh, and if you mix it 50/50 with Hoppe's #9 powder solvent, it makes a heck of a gun-barrel cleaner, too!
Kirk