In the process of (again) fixing things on my camper, getting it ready to take to Colorado next week for Solid Axle Summit #3. It seems like it's a constant, ongoing rebuild - always something to fix. Today I had to order a replacement tank for my hot water heater, it should be here on Monday, but we're leaving on Tuesday. And Monday is our 43rd anniversary. If I couldn't work on it myself I couldn't afford to keep it! Oh well.Never had done anything like this except rebuild my camper... don’t get me started.
Build Keeping another on the road- My Blue 1986 FJ60 Build
- Thread starter Willard
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- #202
Congratulations. 17 years with my wife and I only see that going up.
Nail on the head. My 4Runner project is there for this reason. When I went to clean it out she did the vacuuming and I honestly haven't felt that violated in a long time- she was entering my sacred space, the union between man and broken down, 25 year old rusty machine. She saw it as helping, I saw it as heartbreak.
Thankfully she isn't vehicularly inclined so I should be safe for everything else.
Sorry to rant on your thread.
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- #204
You know how sometimes things just do not go your way.
So when I pulled the oil pan and windage trayI placed the nuts back on the studs.
Last night I decided to take them off and proceeded to drop one into the engine. I could not find it.
So I did exactly what I did not want to do and pulled the heads and then the lifters.
Lifters the rear 4 most cylinders were fine. but still had to come out.
I rotated the engine for the twentieth time and the nut fell out. I double checked the count and yep all there.
Lifters back in.
New head gaskets (well head gasket kit) and OEM head bolts on order from Summit should be here in a few days. I also decided to replace the knock sensors while it is all apart.
And I sprung for a new Matco digital torque wrench with the angle ability (picked it up for under 1/2 off).
Cylinder walls are very nice with no visible damage or ridge-line. the tops could use a little clean from the carbon buildup but nothing major. (on picture 2 second from the back I spilled a little oil so that is the shine)
I really need to take the engine mounts off.
So when I pulled the oil pan and windage trayI placed the nuts back on the studs.
Last night I decided to take them off and proceeded to drop one into the engine. I could not find it.
So I did exactly what I did not want to do and pulled the heads and then the lifters.
Lifters the rear 4 most cylinders were fine. but still had to come out.
I rotated the engine for the twentieth time and the nut fell out. I double checked the count and yep all there.
Lifters back in.
New head gaskets (well head gasket kit) and OEM head bolts on order from Summit should be here in a few days. I also decided to replace the knock sensors while it is all apart.
And I sprung for a new Matco digital torque wrench with the angle ability (picked it up for under 1/2 off).
Cylinder walls are very nice with no visible damage or ridge-line. the tops could use a little clean from the carbon buildup but nothing major. (on picture 2 second from the back I spilled a little oil so that is the shine)
I really need to take the engine mounts off.
- Thread starter
- #205
So digging in my vast website links. I found this
So I will be using the correct FSM for everything.
So I will be using the correct FSM for everything.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
Congrats 8/14 will be my 15th... geez where’s the time go.
At least I’ve been enjoying my camper now. It was worth the rebuild. This weekend campout in the Oregon High Cascades near Ollalie Lake.
- Thread starter
- #207
I miss my old camper. It was on a 84 F150 4 speed 6cyl and just awesome. Had it in BC and used it a lot.
- Thread starter
- #208
No pictures this weekend
Noticed a little scaring on the number 6 cyl (will take a pic tonight), so I have to look at this closer. Also on the number 5 cyl the wiping ring is not working as well as I would have liked it is leaving a little oil residue and I have a felling I am going to have to replace the rings.
This is always a concern when getting a used engine. lucky for my mine was free.
I will drop some pic later tonight and see your thoughts.
Noticed a little scaring on the number 6 cyl (will take a pic tonight), so I have to look at this closer. Also on the number 5 cyl the wiping ring is not working as well as I would have liked it is leaving a little oil residue and I have a felling I am going to have to replace the rings.
This is always a concern when getting a used engine. lucky for my mine was free.
I will drop some pic later tonight and see your thoughts.
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Put it in the truck and floor it
- Thread starter
- #210
Ha easy to say, but I would like to not crack it open for a few years at least.
Here is what I was seeing.
Number 6 is the first pic, i can feel the roughness in the surface compared to the rest of the cylinder.
Number 5 second
The number 5 cyl is better now but I wiped a some off a while ago and this is what is left after a 1 rotation (no just residue oil in the cyl) while it looks like there is a second ridge, this is just where the piston stopped before I adjusted for a full rotation.
I was thinking of just cleaning the bores by running a flex hone down them (pistons out of course)
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Do you know if it was running fine before it was removed from whatever it came out of?
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- #212
Supposedly, it was an insurance write off and had 135K on the clock (verified). I really am guessing this was a factory flaw.
My wife's Yukon has the same engine with 160K on the clock and runs fine.
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I was going to say. If it was running and then it was fine. Rings/cylinder wall issues are either a problem or they're not. There's pretty much no middle ground. And these motors don't have issues with rings under normal conditions.
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- #214
I was thinking the same thing
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- #215
Ok so after looking at the engine closer, I have concluded a few things.
1. the mark in the cylinder wall is probably due to water that had sat in there at some point. Oddly there was no water in the very dirty oil.
2. upon further investigation I found oil in the intake (enough to drip out) this could be caused by a number of things, but I have a feeling the vehicle was in a roll over. It could explain the water.
3. I learned this engine was out of an insurance write off, so again who knows.
I have decided to give it a mild rebuild. Up to this point everything on the 60 has been done well with quality parts.
If I am swapping an engine then it has to be gone through. It was not the plan, but I will feel better about it. The vehicle needs to last another 30 years.
The block will go out for a hot tank and hone.
Crank for a polish
Heads will be cleaned up squared (aluminum heads) with new springs, rockers and if needed valves.
new bearings, oil pump, rings (if pistons look good they will stay) etc, etc.
This will delay the overall build, but in the end I will have a better feeling on it. Plus what is an extra few grand at this point.
1. the mark in the cylinder wall is probably due to water that had sat in there at some point. Oddly there was no water in the very dirty oil.
2. upon further investigation I found oil in the intake (enough to drip out) this could be caused by a number of things, but I have a feeling the vehicle was in a roll over. It could explain the water.
3. I learned this engine was out of an insurance write off, so again who knows.
I have decided to give it a mild rebuild. Up to this point everything on the 60 has been done well with quality parts.
If I am swapping an engine then it has to be gone through. It was not the plan, but I will feel better about it. The vehicle needs to last another 30 years.
The block will go out for a hot tank and hone.
Crank for a polish
Heads will be cleaned up squared (aluminum heads) with new springs, rockers and if needed valves.
new bearings, oil pump, rings (if pistons look good they will stay) etc, etc.
This will delay the overall build, but in the end I will have a better feeling on it. Plus what is an extra few grand at this point.
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oil in the intake and water was just from the motor being put on its side at the pull yard. Nothing to worry about. You will do no improvements to that motor by rebuilding it. It was put together at a multi million dollar manufacturing facility. It will run just as well as one with 250K on it. You're already in too deep pulling the heads off.
This is why swaps take forever and go overbudget.
This is why swaps take forever and go overbudget.
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- #217
Headers arrived. Picked up good used Sanderson headers (raw steel and just need a cleanup) based on some research they should work....we will see.
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I have similar block huggers on mine and they offer really good clearence but I've had issues with melted plug wires and difficulty removing one spark plug. Make sure to check these things. I'd recommend OEM manifolds, not sure which but they are going to last the longest and not give plug wire issues
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- #219
That is without a question a concern.
There are lots of comments on the C5 corvette manifolds but I was not sure. These I got for a song and I can at least used them for basic fitment
I am going to mount them to the heads later tonight so I can see the clearance on the wires.
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- #220
Always something.
So when I was pulling the engine apart I saw the PO had put in a stud in the passenger very back manifold bolt/ fastener. to the point they actually cut the manifold to fit.
I found it odd and figured that the bolt broke off and that rather than trying to do the job right, they drilled a new hole. Was was more odd was the orange gasket maker material stuck next to the stud.
So I pulled it out tonight. Only 3/4 of the 2" stud was sticking out. Pulling it I feared the worse.
They drilled into the water jacket. I doubt this head is now worth fixing and if I could find someone it would never be right.
I am also guessing it never sealed right as they had a crush gasket on this side and it showed blow by at this spot.
So now I will be getting a new set of 317 heads (aftermarket as they are discontinued). Used would need to be rebuilt, new heads are under 500 each.
I am going to call a few placed to see if they can fix this, but as it is the water jacket I will doubt it.
I really hate poor work.
So when I was pulling the engine apart I saw the PO had put in a stud in the passenger very back manifold bolt/ fastener. to the point they actually cut the manifold to fit.
I found it odd and figured that the bolt broke off and that rather than trying to do the job right, they drilled a new hole. Was was more odd was the orange gasket maker material stuck next to the stud.
So I pulled it out tonight. Only 3/4 of the 2" stud was sticking out. Pulling it I feared the worse.
They drilled into the water jacket. I doubt this head is now worth fixing and if I could find someone it would never be right.
I am also guessing it never sealed right as they had a crush gasket on this side and it showed blow by at this spot.
So now I will be getting a new set of 317 heads (aftermarket as they are discontinued). Used would need to be rebuilt, new heads are under 500 each.
I am going to call a few placed to see if they can fix this, but as it is the water jacket I will doubt it.
I really hate poor work.