Katit's LX470 2000 - take #2

[katit]

There was a few ham-fisted mechanics working on truck throughout it's live. It always puzzles me what is that with not putting all hardware back?? Is it saving 2 minutes? Why???!

Speedo was on 2 bottom screws. Lazy to use short screwdriver and put 2 more screws? AC temp sensor wasn't reconnected.
Windshield? Well, I think I got more "lucky" than others. It probably wasn't replaced too long ago and climate was dry, not much damage was done. And THANK YOU to whoever did it and was lazy to put all screws in. Only 2 per side. All TORX!!! 4 screws - 3 different sizes

Question is. I know about proper rivets. Will get those. One hole is probably too big for the rivet now. Any suggestions?
Another question, how do you treat metal to stop rust from spreading?
And, finally, do you reuse trim or get new ones(where?) And how is this trim should be attached on very top? Left side got unstock, but they attached those with 3m sticky tape. I this how it should be?

 

[katit]

I feel like I am getting into rabbit hole with this truck. OTOH - We already assembling interior, so it's not like I am keeping discovering stuff. Right now what bothers me is this windshield situation.
For starters - there is no (minimal) damage done to the body. Dry climate where it came from, plus recency of replacement - not much rust.
HOWEVER - I do see some chips with surface rust along top edge somewhere in a middle.
Also, there is too much glue on a bottom on right side and I think glass wasn't aligned perfectly. I didn't remove top trim as it would be "permanent damage" and don't know what's under, but suspect I may see more metal.

Now, I am really thinking about getting this fixed for good and not think about it again. In order to do that, I need to take glass out, treat all bare metal, reinstall everything correctly, follow along @2001LC advices/instructions.

Main problem - can't figure out what to do with installation. I don't know any trustworthy installers, so I was just calling random places getting idea on cost to A. Remove only (all ready for them) and B. Install only (Glue only)

Somewhere $150-$175 per visit. According to everyone, chances glass survives is good, but may not.

Now, that I think about it like that... Maybe I should simply remove it myself. I can get that HF kit, remove glass, get all prepped, get OE spacers, trim, etc and just call them in for NEW aftermarket glass install? It looks like another $500-600 thing to the budget, so be it. I just really don't want any rust in those areas.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I feel like I am getting into rabbit hole with this truck. OTOH - We already assembling interior, so it's not like I am keeping discovering stuff. Right now what bothers me is this windshield situation.
For starters - there is no (minimal) damage done to the body. Dry climate where it came from, plus recency of replacement - not much rust.
HOWEVER - I do see some chips with surface rust along top edge somewhere in a middle.
Also, there is too much glue on a bottom on right side and I think glass wasn't aligned perfectly. I didn't remove top trim as it would be "permanent damage" and don't know what's under, but suspect I may see more metal.

Now, I am really thinking about getting this fixed for good and not think about it again. In order to do that, I need to take glass out, treat all bare metal, reinstall everything correctly, follow along @2001LC advices/instructions.

Main problem - can't figure out what to do with installation. I don't know any trustworthy installers, so I was just calling random places getting idea on cost to A. Remove only (all ready for them) and B. Install only (Glue only)

Somewhere $150-$175 per visit. According to everyone, chances glass survives is good, but may not.

Now, that I think about it like that... Maybe I should simply remove it myself. I can get that HF kit, remove glass, get all prepped, get OE spacers, trim, etc and just call them in for NEW aftermarket glass install? It looks like another $500-600 thing to the budget, so be it. I just really don't want any rust in those areas.

I'd call a local glass installer (like Safelite), pay them to remove it and then comeback in a week to install it. Have them just take off the glass and install and do the trims and everything else yourself. This should give you ample time to deal with the rust and holes!

 

[katit]

Decision made to DIY. I read FSM, ordered all trims, dams, alignment clips. Checking local glass prices, will see if I can get Pilkington.
Removing glass - seem like not a big deal, why pay?
Installing - if you do per FSM there is not much to screw up. And if you call those guys, they won't go by FSM, so why bother again..

Doesn't sound like a rocket science. Will DIY...

I wish it wasn't like that, but I know no reputable guys here, so why risk. Damage already done.

 

[katit]

Some observations/info I gathered so far.

First of all - glass manufacturers.
Even though OE is a king, I don't feel like paying for it. Reasons:
1. Who knows, I may screw up
2. My goal is to prevent rust, I personally don't have issue with aftermarket glass.
3. Install quality >> glass

I did some research here on forums, in general, etc. From what it sounds, in order of "quality"
a. OE
b. Pilkington
c. PGW (mostly made in US?)
d. Fuyao (FYG) - China
e. OTHERS

Prices to purchase glass after calling around:
OE - din't ask
Pilkington $230 + tax
PGW $140 + tax
Non-Name $100

I am thinking Pilkington.

With all new trim (side ones as well), dams, tools, etc - total will be around $600

PS I asked every single seller what is "the best" - answer is "it's subjective" and "they all comparable"

 

[ClassyJalopy]

MY only concern is that OEM might have acoustic suppression qualities that aftermarket may not - so the cabin may get louder. But this is pure speculation with no evidence!

 

[katit]

MY only concern is that OEM might have acoustic suppression qualities that aftermarket may not - so the cabin may get louder. But this is pure speculation with no evidence!

They call it "acoustic" glass. Simply additional layer of plastic inside. So, not sure LX470 had it in 2000 to begin with (usually it's an option and advertised, I paid for it when ordering Mercedes GLS)

I really don't think there is much difference. Just need to make sure it fits correctly. Anyways, like I said - my main thing it's installed straight so there is no wind noise from crooked mouldings, etc. And make sure I take care of rust issues/potential. That's all I want. If it's not as "quiet" as original - that's totally OK with me.

 

[katit]

Some progress today. Was dealing with steering column bushing and tilt motor. Got that replaced, all lubed, with new bushes - no play, nice tilt/telescoping. Love it!

Finished installed instruments. Of course one bulb didn't work and I had to remove it again and re-do that stupid "P" bulb.

Some progress with door actuators. Rears done. work great after motor replacement. Front ones after repetitive open/close give up after 2-3 tries. Thats a main culprit.
While taking apart doors - replacing speaker grill cloth. so all 5 will match.

Started to take apart FR door to take actuator out and got stuck. Back to RTFM. Lock wouldn't get out with window rail in a way.

Also, who knows what is that round thing with a wire? Found hanging inside a door. Is it Remote antenna by chance? Because remote didn't work well on right side. Looks like it snapes on top of lock?

 

[Trapper50cal]

Source for the speaker cloth? They look great.

My windshield was replaced right before I took delivery.
It is a Fuyao and was professionally installed by a Rising Sun 4X4 Club approved technician.
Mine has been "converted" to screws on the side trim as well, irreversible w/o replacement AFAIK.
Maybe a larger Rivnut or Plusnut solution?

 

[katit]

Source for the speaker cloth? They look great.

My windshield was replaced right before I took delivery.
It is a Fuyao and was professionally installed by a Rising Sun 4X4 Club approved technician.
Mine has been "converted" to screws on the side trim as well, irreversible w/o replacement AFAIK.
Maybe a larger Rivnut or Plusnut solution?

This is "Dark khaki". Plenty for whole car:
Amazon product ASIN B08C78YH85
I ordered different "Camry" rivets per PN form @2001LC so will see, they are slightly bigger.
Went all in - got all new mouldings, rivets, dams, positioners.

Today tried to cut glass with "cutter" - nope, need cable. Will come back to it later. And then decide how to proceed with rivets or not..

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Also, who knows what is that round thing with a wire? View attachment 3439568

Pretty sure it goes on to the back of the lock cylinder and is used to send signal to computer when key is turned to lock/unlock.

 

[katit]

Pretty sure it goes on to the back of the lock cylinder and is used to send signal to computer when key is turned to lock/unlock.

Yep, and it would be another "WTF" and who was working on this car. Rear door panels all intact, I guess noone was there. FR door (first one I started) had missing screw on a bottom and this switch was hanging. Someone was there, not sure why.

Well, hopefully after my "go over" everything will work correctly. Remember, I started with just one master key and no remote

 

[katit]

Door locks defeated. Meaning all doors open/close just fine. Surprisingly at least 2 fronts were really bad. They would stop working after 3 repetative open/close.
The only one I didn't touch is a trunk.. Now I am having second thoughts if I should order more motors and do that one..

Switched to working on stereo install.
Decided to get Teyes CC3 2K with 360 cameras. Just really curious how this going to work. And I am retaining stock nakamichi amp and speakers. Basically, no surgery to the car.

This is my tools and wiring I have to deal with.. I bought pins and connector to do what needs to be done to connect to existing factory harness.

After removing all of the unnecessary stuff and testing - this is harness I came up with. I de-pin teyes harness and installed needed pins at the end of cables, so no splicing. It's connector to connector (or should I say "connectors"). On Teyes side AMP control comes from separate connector. RCAs also on separate connector. I could probably do better job with RCAs but METRA kit had correct pins already so I reused them as is. The only problem METRA had common ground for all RCAs and on Nakamichi connector they were separate so I had to separate and attach pins there.

After some bad connection chasing - result! This Android screen is pretty responsive, feels very good. Sound surprisingly VERY good, I am very pleased.
Not on a picture - but I already tested 360 cameras and they work. No "easy" part - wiring all that crap and installing them into mirrors, hood, etc..

Questions (if you read all the way )
1. Why 2 antenna connectors? I tried one and radio seem to work, but what is other for?
2. Where do I find R+ and L+ blinker power? Somewhere near center console? Perhaps inside doors?(wishful thinking)

 

[Trapper50cal]

This is "Dark khaki". Plenty for whole car:
Amazon product ASIN B08C78YH85

I've got the dark Khaki and another color coming (Looks like 4P3 Desert Bronze - like my 100)
I'll decide when I see them.

Can you share what method you used to re-wrap the covers?
Is there a thread that is definitive or helpful?
Pics?

 

[katit]

I've got the dark Khaki and another color coming (Looks like 4P3 Desert Bronze - like my 100)
I'll decide when I see them.

Can you share what method you used to re-wrap the covers?
Is there a thread that is definitive or helpful?
Pics?

I will do fronts and take pictures

 

[Trapper50cal]

Thanks!

 

[katit]

Working as time permits. I alway hate wiring, tend to overthink/overdo this. Side cameras for 360 system is real PITA, but I was able to manage it with minimum damage.

Camera connector is pretty small, about 5mm but still challenging to pull through in a mirror.
Because mirrors folding, I had to pull camera wire together with other wiring. Pretty tight. The only way I was able to do this is to remove about 1in of sheeting from factory wire. But result is great, all worked out.

You can see disassembled mirror and gray connector that needs to go into tight hole

This is hole for the camera:

This is what I had to remove (insulation) to pull cable

Final results

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Can't wait to see what it looks like on the screen!

 

[katit]

Can't wait to see what it looks like on the screen!

Ha! Me too It's actually cool how it works. I will need to plug in all dimensions (distance, heights of cameras, etc) and use special included calibration mats to make computer "stitch" image together. At least reviews say that "image is better than Toyota systems and pretty close to German automakers"

 

[2000UZJ]

Ha! Me too It's actually cool how it works. I will need to plug in all dimensions (distance, heights of cameras, etc) and use special included calibration mats to make computer "stitch" image together. At least reviews say that "image is better than Toyota systems and pretty close to German automakers"

Our other cars have the Surround View, and it's very nice when parking. One of the things I wish I had on the 100, but this is the one car we have where I don't park 3 miles from the entrance lol.

CC3 interests me greatly, and would do the same setup! Looking forward to seeing out it turns out.