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Yeah I have a service manual with it. Mine are quite a bit out of spec. I'm going to drop the pistons out this week and see if I can some how fuigure out why it's not right. I'm not going to put a lot of effort into it. Just want to see if there is an easy fix.

I'm worried this is a rabbit hole that goes farther than I am prepared to go.
 
Two are over .103mm two are below that. I need to get a thinner feeler guage to know for sure.

I'm not sure waking them will work after the water and combustion gases getting in the void I'm sure.
 
If you pull the pistons out then there are only easy fixes, right? Either walk the liners down or pull them out and press in new ones?
 
I don't know what has caused them to sit like they are though. Easy solution is they just need to be seated down. Hard one is if my liners are different or the block is damaged.
 
Since you have to fix it no matter, and likely the only way to confirm what the problem is - block, liner or ?, is to remove them all anyway, I would whack on the high liners a few times to see if they move down.

If the liners move, you know what is wrong and you can make a plan of repair. If they don't move, the liners need to be replaced anyway.

You may get lucky and they move with a good whack. A shock load from a solid whack can make things move that a compression/clamp won't budge. If the proud liners move easily and then measure good...Another decision.
 
Instead of "wacking it" you could try gently pressing them in. Just a thought. Not like with your hands, but with the origional tool. It would suck if you wacked them and they all sat where they should and you regret being so forceful and question running them.
 
I meant with protection to the sleeve, so if it worked, it would be usable. The only issue with the sleeve tool...(and I have not forgotten, I'm just not finished yet) is you must disassemble the engine to use it.

With a sleeve plug and a solid whack, it may work, if not, move on to the next option.
 
doug720 said:
I meant with protection to the sleeve, so if it worked, it would be usable. The only issue with the sleeve tool...(and I have not forgotten, I'm just not finished yet) is you must disassemble the engine to use it.

With a sleeve plug and a solid whack, it may work, if not, move on to the next option.
Click to expand...
Next option is getting that tool again ;) no rush.

I agree with Greg at this point my faith in the engine is seriously damaged to the point I do not know if I will be able to fully trust it again. I know that may all come down to my fault for incorrectly installing the liners but it's still in the back of my mind none the less.
 
gerg said:
Instead of "wacking it" you could try gently pressing them in. Just a thought. Not like with your hands, but with the origional tool. It would suck if you wacked them and they all sat where they should and you regret being so forceful and question running them.
Click to expand...

I'd make up a plate and use the head bolts to pull it down. You'll need tons of force to make sure they're seated. I've seen a Perkins take about 20 ton to remove a liner.
 
That's a lot of force. What about the block? Can you damage the lip it rests on if they are seated and you keep pressing? As in cracks and stuff? Hmm if the seats are carboned up you could end up trying to seat the liner and achieve a protrusion that not possible and end up rendering the block unusable. That would be counterproductive.
 
I asked my buddy who is a really good engine machinist, and one who does both wet and dry sleeves for some serious engines about this problem.

He said all liners must be set by hand if they have been pressed into a block. When pressed, sleeves can feel and look seated, but will spring back due to distortion and friction. He makes aluminum plugs about 4" thick, with 2" above the sleeve and a snug fit 2" inside the sleeve and a good overhang of the liner. He use a 5 pound single jack and taps them to final seat.

He thinks Jeremy's can likely be seated, as long as the sleeve is not damaged and nothing is trapped in the block recess.

The trust issue is one only Jeremy can answer, but I would give it a try before tearing the whole engine down. If a couple of taps moves the liners and they measure correctly and the same, why would it not be repaired? If the liner is in the correct position, the head will hold it in place.

I would give it a try.
 
I'm going to get a plug machined to see if I can seat the sleeves in any more. If not then I will pull the sleeves and start over. I'm still at a loss of how I missed this in the assembly stage.
 
I hope a few taps seat the liners!
 
Wheelingnoob said:
I'm going to get a plug machined to see if I can seat the sleeves in any more. If not then I will pull the sleeves and start over. I'm still at a loss of how I missed this in the assembly stage.
Click to expand...

If you get me dimensions will turn you a plug and send it to you if you want? Pm me if your interested.

Matt
 
Glad you're back at it. My personal thinking is that you've put in so much work on this thing, as we've all seen, that once this is resolved you'll have a great motor. Hope it works out well.
 
I kind of thinking Jereme that the liners seated for you when you pressed them, then bounced up after a few thousand Kms. I remember you going on that 4x4 trip and getting good power and mileage. Can't do that with a blown HG. Cant have 2 liners 20 thou proud and seal a HG so.... Something changed after you buttoned it up. I don't think you missed anything.
 
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It did overheat significantly a few times when I first got it going. Not sure if that would have any effect, it was all pre 4x4 trip as well. The liners where not pressed in with a machine they where pulled in with a tool made for the job. So I was mechanically pulling them into place by hand power.

I'm kind of at a loss as to what would have caused all this change. I'm still thinking I had an issue from the start that has just got worse.

We'll see I'll make a tool when I get back from another family vacation that the truck was meant to be on.

Jeremy
 
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