Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

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It's going to work, it's going to work, it's going to work...
 
Got some more torn down tonight. Was able to get all the cooling and injector lines off as well as the wiring removed from the head.

I also removed the turbo, Looks OK. It's deffinantly passing oil through the compressor side. The boot before the turbo (after the PCV) is totally dry. After the turbo it's dripping oil. All the popes have oil build up and I actually have oil leaking out of the intercooler boot on one side.

Fortunately no damage to the compressor wheel or turbine, almost no play at all side to side zero in and out. So hope is no damage other than a bad oil seal. It's getting a full rebuild with a high boost thrust bearing and VSR ballance.
 
Is there any chance your turbo is passing oil due to high crank case pressure and/or intake vacuum?
 
Could be intake vacume at higher boost. Don't thing there is much if any crank case pressure if there was I would have more oil build up pre turbo.

My intake is 3" piping to a 3"-2.5" 90* elbow then to a 2.5" cobra head boot on the turbo. Unfortunately I do not have any way of redoing it differently.
 
Well tonight I got an hour and a half in the garage. I was able to get the rest of it stripped down and pop the head off. I'm getting quick now 3 hours to get it off taking my time.

Anyways yep she blew the head gasket again. Now the crazy part..... It blew in a different spot. Cylinder 4 and 3 where fine (blew big time last time) cylinder 2 and 1 blew this time. I caught it so quickly this time it's kind of cool to see the areas it blew and the patterns it left. Cylinder 2 blew on both sides cylinder 1 blew only on the side near cylinder 2 and much more mildly than 2.

Not blown... 3/4 head


Not blown... 3/4 head gasket


Head 3/2 blown on 2 side solid on 3.


Head gasket 3/2 lots of combustion gas marks.


Head 2/1 both blown.


Head gasket of 2/1 blown.




So some intresting results, not really sure what was the cause. Head looks good, I'm still going to get the head surfaced. But other than that and more clamp from the head bolts.........?

Greg I should get you to come by and take a look as well.
 
Yeah I'd love to come check it out. I must say I'm pretty bummed out with the gasket blowing everywhere. I'm really suspect of the liner protrusion. If that is the case though perhaps getting a reciever groove in the head cut and run a modest copper o ring might do it. Just a thought. Increasing head bolt torque wount get you a big jump in peri cylinder gasket compression, although I am in favor of more torque, I suspect it alone wount be enough. Interesting to see the machining marks in your gasket. Perhaps a bit of permatex would smooth it out a Touch? What days are you free?
g
 
If the liner height turns out to be correct and the head is flat, and the leak has changed positions, to me, the only variable is head bolts.

Most likely the bolts were randomly installed the last two times the head was attached, which could account for the leak moving. Maybe the head bolts were over torqued/stretched at one time. I don't recall if you check the HB length?

Have you considered ARP studs? I found them for around $250 complete.

Just an idea.
 
Head bolts are Brand new, got them when the first gasket blew. Checked them all last night and and none are stretched.

I guess I need to focus on cylinder sleeves. I can't see any other way this would happen.

The head is flat verified by myself and the machine shop last time.

Greg I can meet up tonight if you are free.
 
Did you check how deep the bolts go?

Arp isn't the solution right now. The stock parts hold fine to several times Jeremy's boost pressure when all is good.
 
Dougal said:
Did you check how deep the bolts go?

Arp isn't the solution right now. The stock parts hold fine to several times Jeremy's boost pressure when all is good.
Click to expand...
I can easily check the bolt depth tonight. From what I recall they have decent thread engagement (they are Brand new Isuzu bolts) and measured the same as the original ones I replaced.

I don't thing head bolt torque is my issues as well. I think it's liner protrusion or head finish.
 
Sorry to see you are having issues. If this has been mentioned I apologize, but have you verified that your torque wrench is working properly? Were all of the head stud holes clean and free of debris? Did you lube the head studs? Too much friction could cause problems and have a stud/bolt not reach optimal clamping pressure but reach the specified preset torque? Just trying to help make some sense out of this.
 
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