Iron Man Pro Foam Review
- Thread starter wngrog
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Stupid question...I'm having a helluva time trying to torque the top nut on these shocks on the rear of the truck. Any suggestions?
I'm using the plastic shock sleeve then the supplied metal washer, rubber bushing, and another metal washer below frame mount and the same above the frame mount (metal washer, rubber bushing, metal washer) with lock nut. I hold onto the sleeve when I'm trying to tighten the nut but I know the metal shock rod is spinning with the nut. I think the bottom metal washer is sliding on the metal washer in the plastic shock sleeve preventing me from getting the nut to tighten.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks in advance
I'm using the plastic shock sleeve then the supplied metal washer, rubber bushing, and another metal washer below frame mount and the same above the frame mount (metal washer, rubber bushing, metal washer) with lock nut. I hold onto the sleeve when I'm trying to tighten the nut but I know the metal shock rod is spinning with the nut. I think the bottom metal washer is sliding on the metal washer in the plastic shock sleeve preventing me from getting the nut to tighten.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks in advance
The top of the shock body has a Double-D type nut, the sockets for these are not easy to find so you can try to hold that with a 10mm open end box wrench( I recall 10mm but it might be +/-2mm) while you tighten the shock mounting nut. Its a MO-FO man. Hard to get an accurate torque reading- so use the squish method pictured in the Ironman Instructions.
Good luck
Good luck with your search-
I couldn't find the correct one anywhere locally( Napa autozone orieleys Sears - (and Napa is based here)- ironman uses an oddball size and that socket is not commonly found here- I suggest an adjustable wrench, or an open end 8 or 10mm( sorry can't recall which)
Everyone still happy with their shocks?
I've had all four on for a few months now and they are pretty nice. Super smooth on the highway. Sadly, haven't had much of a chance to get them offroad yet. Soon. Overall, they are nowhere near as stiff as I was thinking they were going to be. Not in a bad way, but just not harsh at all. I noticed a huge difference between the old OME Nitrochargers and the later Nitrocharger Sports on my 80. These really feel more like the old Nitrochargers, which I loved. I do get a bit more compression in the rear on my 865 springs than I really wanted, but that probably isn't the shocks' fault. It just didn't firm up as much as I thought it would after the new shocks. Looking forward to driving on some crappy washboard roads to see how they do. So far, they're just fine. Not sure they are really worth the money yet, but time will tell once I have a chance to put them through their paces a bit more.
- Thread starter
- #88
100% happy.
Pretty much everyone in my club has switched over to them. One guy even did his 80.
Very worth the money considering the next step is a BIG step up in cost and nothing I've tossed at mine makes me wish I had more shock.
Pretty much everyone in my club has switched over to them. One guy even did his 80.
Very worth the money considering the next step is a BIG step up in cost and nothing I've tossed at mine makes me wish I had more shock.
WOW.....a world of difference. Amazing difference from the OME Nitro's that came off. It is a great upgrade and you will not be disappointed. Still use OE UCAs and get a great ride.
You can still use the OE UCA's if you have good caster settings or dont have much lift in the front- maybe +1" ( hub center to rim measurement of about 20" +/-.5") to keep your caster setting anywhere close to the bottom end of factory spec. if you initiate a full 2" or more you'll want to get aftermarket UCA's to gain back some caster, better bushing alignment and better range of ball joint articulation. I found this to be the case with my lift anyway.
- Thread starter
- #91
I'm running stock upper control arms with 305's
I've posted the measurements in my thread where I dialed in these shocks with Slee heavies. Hell, it may be this thread.
Either way I'm at 2.5" over stock in the front and 2.5" in the rear.
My alignment is perfect.
I've posted the measurements in my thread where I dialed in these shocks with Slee heavies. Hell, it may be this thread.
Either way I'm at 2.5" over stock in the front and 2.5" in the rear.
My alignment is perfect.
Its prob. off topic to expand too much on my point since its not related directly to the shocks. Benefits/drawbacks of aftermarket UCA's have been discussed plenty. Good deal that your set up works for you with OE, wished mine did. ( nice looking truck BTW) As I said, in my case, I needed adj. UCA's to get caster back into the optimal end (2.5-3 degrees) of factory spec running 33" tires, 30 mil spacers and 2" lift.
I too had to get aftermarket UCA to correct my steering. I still get a metal on metal grinding every once in a while when I turn hard right and move very slowly. Still trying to track down the cause - maybe the steering rack.
- Thread starter
- #94
305/65/18 BFG KO2 Pics
Measurements on my truck 20.5" front and 21.5" rear.
Lower fender to center of center cap.
I have never actually seen the measurements on a fresh 100 series
Measurements on my truck 20.5" front and 21.5" rear.
Lower fender to center of center cap.
I have never actually seen the measurements on a fresh 100 series
Anyone know of any black Friday sales on these?
Review, part II. I was honestly a little underwhelmed when I first go them. The fronts were noticeably better than the KYB shocks I had on there when I just installed the fronts. Washboard roads would make the KYBs in the rear start to overheat and get a weird fade feeling. THe back end would just start to float around after a short while on washboards at speed and were horrible if you hit a deep pothole.
When I got the rears put on, I thought they were good, just not great. The ride on the highway is/was great, but I wasn't that blown away around town. After driving them for a while, however, they have been much better. Finally got to drive a bit on some crappy dirt roads. Night and day difference. Nice, straight ride on curvy washboards. Soaks up the potholes with barely a bump. Really, really nice. Very happy overall.
When I got the rears put on, I thought they were good, just not great. The ride on the highway is/was great, but I wasn't that blown away around town. After driving them for a while, however, they have been much better. Finally got to drive a bit on some crappy dirt roads. Night and day difference. Nice, straight ride on curvy washboards. Soaks up the potholes with barely a bump. Really, really nice. Very happy overall.
Metal tech is running 20% off for cyber Monday with free shipping!
It's not listed on the website but they do have them.
I ordered the full kit with springs, torsion bars and shocks tonight.
They gave me the cyber Monday discount tonight and it came to $1050 to my door.
You will have to call since it not listed. Excided to try these out!
If I remember correctly stock (new) is/was typically 19.5" front and 20.5" rear, which might explain why you haven't needed the aftermarket UCAs, to correct your caster, at your current height.
20% off and free shipping is a great deal on this kit. I think you will like the the set up Ben.
FYI not sure if they updated the spring markings for the US market, but my rear springs were a marked application for Aussie right hand drive so the marked DS spring( shorter spring) goes on passenger side.
FYI not sure if they updated the spring markings for the US market, but my rear springs were a marked application for Aussie right hand drive so the marked DS spring( shorter spring) goes on passenger side.