Inclinometer Wiring in a 60 (2 Viewers)

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OK. I went and checked my wiring for you guys.

There are two green wires that go to a lightbulb holder. One should be connected to the dash light circuit. The other is connected to ground

The four wires for the clock are as follows:

RED is for the always hot 12V (a battery feed that is not switched)
BLUE is for a switched 12V lead (you might be able to use the cigarette lighter wire for this.
GREEN is connected to a feed from the dash lights (the same as one of the green wires above). This wire is used to reduce the clock brightness when the headlights are on.
BLACK goes to ground.

In the connector, The red wire is by itself and should be connected to always 12V. The blue wire is by itself and should be connected to a switched 12V lead (ignition accessory switch). The black wire and one green wire are combined and they should be connected to ground. Two green wires are combined and they should be connected to one of the feeds to a dash light.

CB: your cigarette ligher plug won't work for two reasons: (1) the cigarette lighter is switched with the ignition switch. There is not always 12V to it. (2) the illumination light is set up to dim (one wire feeds the light 12V switched on when the headlights are on and the other lead goes to the dimmer switch). The inclinometer plug is not set up to dim (it would need to be a 5-connector plug to allow dimming).

HTH.


Regarding this part of your post: "Two green wires are combined and they should be connected to one of the feeds to a dash light."

Wouldn't this be dimmable(if that's even a word)and not work for the inclinometer clock like you stated?
 
I haven't tried this, but...If you study the wiring diagram for the FJ60, you will see that the dash lights circuit take +12V from the battery, through the light switch, to the dash light bulbs (the bulbs are wired in parallel) then to the dimmer rheostat then to ground. Each dash light has two wires, one that comes from the power source (the light switch) and one that goes to the dimmer rheostat.

The inclinometer light also has two wires (both happen to be green). One of the green wires from the light is bundled with the green wire for the clock. These wires are connected to the power source from the light switch. The other green wire from the inclinometer is bundled with the black clock wire and is connect to ground. If you cut this green wire and connect it to another wire that goes to the dimmer rheostat, then the inclinometer light should dim with the rest of dash lights. I think the light around the cigarette ligher dims, and if so, both these wires must be there...

Try it out. Let us know if it works.

did he ever get back to you or anyone on here after having tried this? hmm :hmm:
 
Regarding this part of your post: "Two green wires are combined and they should be connected to one of the feeds to a dash light."

Wouldn't this be dimmable(if that's even a word)and not work for the inclinometer clock like you stated?

The dimmer is installed between the lights and the ground, not between the battery and the lights. Therefore, the feed to the dash lights get a "constant" voltage, as long as the lights are turned on. The clock and the display get power from other sources. The power from the dash lights somehow tell the clock that the lights are on and it dims the display.
 
The dimmer is installed between the lights and the ground, not between the battery and the lights. Therefore, the feed to the dash lights get a "constant" voltage, as long as the lights are turned on. The clock and the display get power from other sources. The power from the dash lights somehow tell the clock that the lights are on and it dims the display.

Okay, so which dash light did you splice your green wires from the inclinometer too?

Thanks
 
ssgoods, i installed mine today and found that i just had to put the mounting tab for the inclinometer behind the plastic of the heater control assembly. I was having troubles and then I just moved in behind and it fit quite well. I haven't wired it yet because i didn't have a soldering iron, but i'll let you know when I do

i just had mine installed as i am a certifiably a retard when it comes to electrical wires. I noticed it wasn't flush on the left side and now i know the reason. I'll take it apart and put it behind the heater control :cheers:
 
i just had mine installed as i am a certifiably a retard when it comes to electrical wires. I noticed it wasn't flush on the left side and now i know the reason. I'll take it apart and put it behind the heater control :cheers:

Need help with the constant hot. Can't find one. Any help ?
 
Need help with the constant hot. Can't find one. Any help ?

I used the stereo constant hot.
Now you may have the stock radio in which case there isn't a constant hot.
I had a cd player so i had a hot run from the fuse panel to that.

To find hot in fuse panel, just have key off and check them with a tester.
This is a new design i haven't used bt like the looks..

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I use these and attach a female spade for tap.

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I was able to find the switched hot wire, but the clock would not retain time . finally, I replaced my stereo, and discovered the constant hot wire. Finally got it working.
 
Problem today wiring up the ol inclinometer. Wanted to bench test it by powering it off the battery. Always hot and green light wires to + and ground to - (lights up the dials but no clock) Shouldn't this power both? How do I test clock function?
 
I found mine on eBay Australia, which is eBay.com.au . I keep an eye out there but have not seen any for months.
 
Anybody have tips/advice on trimming the plastic bezel so that it fits properly once you've installed the inclinometer?
 
Really? mine causes the plastic bezel to bulge outward, most notably where it is cracked just above the heater controls.

It has been several years since I installed mine, but as I recall it was plug and play (aside from the wiring). The 60 Series came with either a "cubby" or the inclinometer there from the factory. No besel modification is needed to install either one.
 
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