Inclinometer Wiring in a 60 (1 Viewer)

[lowtideride]

Thanks, Low. Helpful as always.

Im not sure if thats sarcaism or not. Either way Im normally not much help

My inclinometer is the bubble version(the TLCA one), no electronics. So, again im not much help.

I was just saying the more time spent in your vehicle you wont be looking at a gauge when your butt starts to pucker. But I can tell you my driveway is 6degrees off camber.

 

[Tinker]

I was just warming you up, not flaming you. Really, I just want to be like 2mbb.

 

[cbmontgo]

This weekend I am going to replace my dash, and I picked up a new trim panel from Toyota today while I was in there. I have removed it, and there is no harness that is plug and play in my 60 either. I am also installing an inclinometer.

As far as the cigarette lighter goes, I assume the red wire (see where my finger is pointing) is always hot, so I can splice into that for the red wire on the clock side? There are also green wires on the cig lighter. I guess that is for when the headlights are turned on and the lighter's little light comes on. Can I splice into that one and match the green on the inclinometer wires? Why are there two green wires on the left side in the pic instead of one?

I am trying to do the least "intrusive" splice to my harness. It seems like this would work, but I am not an electrical guy. Any thoughts?

Oh, and Tinker, here is a pic of the stock mounting brackets. There are about 7.3" on center.

Any other thoughts on this?

 

[Tinker]

CB -
Did you read 2mbb's previous thread linked above? He recounts a conversation with someone at SOR who told him how to wire it. He hard-wired it, which is ok if you don't have the male end on the inclinometer wiring. If you do, the female socket is identical to the cigarette lighter's. Couldn't be too much from a junkyard. I'd guess they're the same on all contemporary Toyotas.

It would appear that the two green wires are from the illumination bulb are for + & - switched with the park/headlights. The positive also goes to the clock to dim the display when the lights are on (presumably dark out). The other leads are constant positive (like to the lighter) & ground.

If your dash is still apart, could you get the other measurements of the mounting tab (band?) - need to know how far up it is from the back, how far up from the bottom, & how far out from the side are the holes?

I need to make my own bracket. Guess I'll just epoxy it on.

 

[cbmontgo]

CB -
Did you read 2mbb's previous thread linked above? He recounts a conversation with someone at SOR who told him how to wire it. He hard-wired it, which is ok if you don't have the male end on the inclinometer wiring. If you do, the female socket is identical to the cigarette lighter's. Couldn't be too much from a junkyard. I'd guess they're the same on all contemporary Toyotas.

It would appear that the two green wires are from the illumination bulb are for + & - switched with the park/headlights. The positive also goes to the clock to dim the display when the lights are on (presumably dark out). The other leads are constant positive (like to the lighter) & ground.

If your dash is still apart, could you get the other measurements of the mounting tab (band?) - need to know how far up it is from the back, how far up from the bottom, & how far out from the side are the holes?

I need to make my own bracket. Guess I'll just epoxy it on.

I'll try to get some more measurements for you tomorrow.

I did read 2mbb's thread about that, but I was still a little confused. Also, I did plug it into the cig lighter (perfect fit), but nothing happens. I'm not sure why this is either...

I am going to get back after it tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

 

[2mbb]

OK. I went and checked my wiring for you guys.

There are two green wires that go to a lightbulb holder. One should be connected to the dash light circuit. The other is connected to ground

The four wires for the clock are as follows:

RED is for the always hot 12V (a battery feed that is not switched)
BLUE is for a switched 12V lead (you might be able to use the cigarette lighter wire for this.
GREEN is connected to a feed from the dash lights (the same as one of the green wires above). This wire is used to reduce the clock brightness when the headlights are on.
BLACK goes to ground.

In the connector, The red wire is by itself and should be connected to always 12V. The blue wire is by itself and should be connected to a switched 12V lead (ignition accessory switch). The black wire and one green wire are combined and they should be connected to ground. Two green wires are combined and they should be connected to one of the feeds to a dash light.

CB: your cigarette ligher plug won't work for two reasons: (1) the cigarette lighter is switched with the ignition switch. There is not always 12V to it. (2) the illumination light is set up to dim (one wire feeds the light 12V switched on when the headlights are on and the other lead goes to the dimmer switch). The inclinometer plug is not set up to dim (it would need to be a 5-connector plug to allow dimming).

HTH.

 

[cbmontgo]

OK. I went and checked my wiring for you guys.

There are two green wires that go to a lightbulb holder. One should be connected to the dash light circuit. The other is connected to ground

The four wires for the clock are as follows:

RED is for the always hot 12V (a battery feed that is not switched)
BLUE is for a switched 12V lead (you might be able to use the cigarette lighter wire for this.
GREEN is connected to a feed from the dash lights (the same as one of the green wires above). This wire is used to reduce the clock brightness when the headlights are on.
BLACK goes to ground.

In the connector, The red wire is by itself and should be connected to always 12V. The blue wire is by itself and should be connected to a switched 12V lead (ignition accessory switch). The black wire and one green wire are combined and they should be connected to ground. Two green wires are combined and they should be connected to one of the feeds to a dash light.

CB: your cigarette ligher plug won't work for two reasons: (1) the cigarette lighter is switched with the ignition switch. There is not always 12V to it. (2) the illumination light is set up to dim (one wire feeds the light 12V switched on when the headlights are on and the other lead goes to the dimmer switch). The inclinometer plug is not set up to dim (it would need to be a 5-connector plug to allow dimming).

HTH.

Thanks for doing this. It will be a huge help in getting all of this stuff put back together this weekend.

 

[Tinker]

Thanks, 2M!

Looking forward to measurements, CB (glad you got your cluster out)!

 

[2mbb]

Tinker: Since I had it out, I took some dimensions off mine (see below). The mounting bracket fits in the grooves on the side of the inclinometer and mounts to the plastic case using two screws on the back. The brackets mount to your dash on using the same two face screws that held in the cubby pocket. The front to back dimension I measured onthe mounting bracket is from the inside faces of the bracket. This dimension should be the same regardless how thick your homemade bracket is. The hole in the bracket for the screw that mounts the inclinometer to the dash is oversized, making this dimension a little less critical. I used the same type screw that is used to mount the cubby and the instrument faccia (sheet metal screw with phillips pan head.

 

[phishincruisin]

bump for those of us who just bought inclinometers from goldchaser.

 

[Tinker]

2M -
Sorry, just saw your last post with the awesome diagram & pix. I got lazy & PMd goldchaser to see if he had an extra pair of brackets. He said he had a bent pair he'd try to straighten. Which he did & I PayPalled him $10 US to send 'em up here.

So I don't have to fab anything, just tweak it if necessary. Someone posted that you really need some small plastic to trim around the face after it sticks through the hole. I guess I'll be looking for that soon. I'll end up repainting the satin black area anyway - took the opportunity to strengthen all the mounting holes including the ones that had cracked already.

Got my "Aussie" mirrors & about have the convex glass mirror changed over to flat - one of 'em broke twice while my guy Chuck was installing the glass. That's what glass does!

 

[ssgoods]

I just installed mine today using 2mbb's method. I noticed that it fit strangely... so I cut out the top right plastic screw hole tab on the heater controls, and then it fit perfectly. I only cut the part that the left metal inclinometer tab fits into. I did notice that you can use the cigarette lighter for half of this project. I soldered the switched 12 volt onto the power source on the back of the lighter, then I used the red/black wire on the cigarette lighter's light for the ilumination,the red wire on the 12 volt constant on my car stereo, and a screw on my ashtray frame for the ground. And a hijack question.......????

On the cigarette lighter's light wiring there is a red/black wire, and a green wire. If you use the green wire, then when you dim your dashlights, the inclinometer will get brighter, if you brighten your dashlights, the inclinometer will dim. How can you make it where the inclinometer will dim while your dashlights dim???

 

[2mbb]

How can you make it where the inclinometer will dim while your dashlights dim???

I haven't tried this, but...If you study the wiring diagram for the FJ60, you will see that the dash lights circuit take +12V from the battery, through the light switch, to the dash light bulbs (the bulbs are wired in parallel) then to the dimmer rheostat then to ground. Each dash light has two wires, one that comes from the power source (the light switch) and one that goes to the dimmer rheostat.

The inclinometer light also has two wires (both happen to be green). One of the green wires from the light is bundled with the green wire for the clock. These wires are connected to the power source from the light switch. The other green wire from the inclinometer is bundled with the black clock wire and is connect to ground. If you cut this green wire and connect it to another wire that goes to the dimmer rheostat, then the inclinometer light should dim with the rest of dash lights. I think the light around the cigarette ligher dims, and if so, both these wires must be there...

Try it out. Let us know if it works.

 

[phishincruisin]

ssgoods, i installed mine today and found that i just had to put the mounting tab for the inclinometer behind the plastic of the heater control assembly. I was having troubles and then I just moved in behind and it fit quite well. I haven't wired it yet because i didn't have a soldering iron, but i'll let you know when I do

 

[ssgoods]

I probably should have tried that first....

and I can't blame beer!

 

[Joe_E]

Bump so I can print it out on my computer that's hooked to the printer.

Great help here, thanks.

 

[Brock]

Niken Inclinometer anybody tried to mount one of these in the small cubby or on face of it slightly recessed?

Saw them on Expeditioneers.com

Apparently well made....very very light...mounts with velcro to dash or with windshield mount....if dimensions not too big might work great in the small cubby but might need to make a plastic face plate then cut custom to recess it slightly.

Also it does not have that damn JEEP picture on it like some others...LOL

 

[Joe_E]

There's no ":" in the clock time.
I say go OEM Jeco.

 

[Brock]

maybe it was flashing....

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

I just got mine last week from Australia, but I have not tried to put it in yet.

So, are there any FJ60s that already have the plug, or do they all have to be spliced in?

My HJ60 had the plug, but it was in the harness behind the gauges/speedo. I had to extend the wires, but the plug was perfect. maybe check there before you rewire it all the way.
J