jvazquez53
El Tractor
Now that I know that converting to Part-time will not help with fuel economy, what can I do to improve fuel economy/power on my 80, so I can have my wife convince that we do not need to sell the truck.
Improve Fuel efficiency-power
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Flank
American by Birth, Texan by the grace of God.
I am a professed newby on this forum, with my first 80 series. But, with my previous trucks, a nice K&N helps to do both, had a filter only in one truck, a whole intake in another. K&N (or anyone else that I am aware) does not make an intake system for the truck, but do have the filters. Modest power and mileage gains - 10HP or so and .5 to 1 MPG. Worth the $45 for the filter. I run at least 35lbs in tires for less rolling resistance. Mudders or aggressive ATs will decrease MPG. Consider two sets of tires - nice set of michelins for the street and a Fun set for off road. Going further, a Cat back exhaust system can free up air flow.
I don't think you are going to be able to do much to increase more than 1-3 MPG, IMHO, but over the course of a tank, 2MPG IS 50 miles extra per tank!
Flank
I don't think you are going to be able to do much to increase more than 1-3 MPG, IMHO, but over the course of a tank, 2MPG IS 50 miles extra per tank!
Flank
The only thing I've heard is to optimize all the areas of potential inefficiency. There are many areas where efficiency can be lost. The ignition system (plugs, wires, distributor capt), cooling system (tstat, radiator, fan clutch), driveline (fluids in engine, transmission, transfer case, drive shafts, diffs, hubs), tires (size, type, pressure), air and fuel system (air filter, throttle body, intake manifold, fuel filter, fuel injectors, O2 sensors). I didn't mention the EGR system because I don't know anything about it. Any additional weight (bumbers, sliders) will also decrease gas mileage.
13-14 mpg around town and 15-16 on the highway is a reasonable goal for a stock truck, but every truck is a little different. You might have a better chance of convincing your wife that your 80 is the most well built and safest vehicle on the road. Good luck.
13-14 mpg around town and 15-16 on the highway is a reasonable goal for a stock truck, but every truck is a little different. You might have a better chance of convincing your wife that your 80 is the most well built and safest vehicle on the road. Good luck.
I am a professed newby on this forum, with my first 80 series. But, with my previous trucks, a nice K&N helps to do both, had a filter only in one truck, a whole intake in another. K&N (or anyone else that I am aware) does not make an intake system for the truck, but do have the filters. Modest power and mileage gains - 10HP or so and .5 to 1 MPG. Worth the $45 for the filter. I run at least 35lbs in tires for less rolling resistance. Mudders or aggressive ATs will decrease MPG. Consider two sets of tires - nice set of michelins for the street and a Fun set for off road. Going further, a Cat back exhaust system can free up air flow.
I don't think you are going to be able to do much to increase more than 1-3 MPG, IMHO, but over the course of a tank, 2MPG IS 50 miles extra per tank!
Flank
Flank, not to argue with you, but K&N's are almost universally avoided here for several reasons:
1. More particulates pass through them than OEM filter.
2. The oil they use can clog up the MAF wire over time.
3. No proven power gains.
I'd stick with the washable OEM filter that you can get from Dan the Man at American Toyota. Otherwise I think the advice you gave was good. Honestly the best thing you can do is to keep the rig tuned, and then the next best thing that you can do is install a turbo, honestly.
Of course a freeer-flowing exhaust helps here, properly inflated tires, all the other things you advised.
x2 on what turbo said
Flank
American by Birth, Texan by the grace of God.
I don't take this personally, I invite the alternative suggestions - as I will myself take similar steps soon, no doubt. I did, I will admit, tend to take to cleaning my MAS about every 6 months, and am not very fond of cleaning / re-oiling the K&N.
But we agree that more fresh air is the easiest solution. Turbo is great option. However, at $3500+, I would probably have trouble convincing my wife that this was economical solution to saving money on gas. $3500 would buy a LOT of gas... But for power and MPG, it would certainly help.
the clog in the system is definitely the AFM. Toyota as well as others have constantly made changes here to help remedy that. What needs to happen is for Semlin to have some success in building a translator so you can run a MAF in place of what you have now. If that happen it will be the most cost effective power/MPG upgrade you could put on.
What about a snorkel, will adding a snorkel improve fuel efficiency? Something about cooler air entering the system... and they only cost around $300. Anyone get better milage with one?
I will go a step further, two different vehicles! The TLC, and a smaller economical car/bike of your choosing... My VW Turbodiesel car has been down since December rendering my TLC as my daily driver, 14.5-17mpg is norm... and sometimes 13mpg. Car averages 40mpg but if driven sanely i'm sure it can hit 48mpg, also have a 600cc bike which avg's in the mid 40mpg.
The TLC's actually get decent mileage for being a heavy steel AWD pig with less than stellar aerodynamics. I would be interested to know what mileage would be possible with the 1FZ in front of a standard tranny or 5/6speed automatic... Someone mentioned to convert to a MAF for a pre'95 but would go a step further if you have the funds and grab a MegaSquirt EMS and plumb it in with some direct fire plug mounted coils. No spark plug wires, cap, rotor, MAF, AFM, and the option of what type of 02 sensor to use and the ability to tune everything. Titanium connecting rods and dry sump might help internal engine resistance as well but are going to be pricey...
Ditto on the K&N. Run..don't walk..away from anything K&N. Go with Toyota OEM and never clean red oil off your MAF sensor or throttle body again.
Keeping your truck tuned and in good running condition is what's going to make the difference with your fuel economy.
Keeping your truck tuned and in good running condition is what's going to make the difference with your fuel economy.
Flank, not to argue with you, but K&N's are almost universally avoided here for several reasons:
1. More particulates pass through them than OEM filter.
2. The oil they use can clog up the MAF wire over time.
3. No proven power gains.
I'd stick with the washable OEM filter that you can get from Dan the Man at American Toyota. Otherwise I think the advice you gave was good. Honestly the best thing you can do is to keep the rig tuned, and then the next best thing that you can do is install a turbo, honestly.
Of course a freeer-flowing exhaust helps here, properly inflated tires, all the other things you advised.
For Flank:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/156529-80-series-k-n-vs-oem-air-filter.html
Pulled a K&N out of my 80 last year and put in an OEM air filter. I won't try to convince you one way or the other but I encourage you to read the information in the link above. FWIW I had a K&N FIPK2 in my '99 Durango for ~5 years. I never really noticed any detrimental affects but I also didn't notice any improvement either. In fact, my seat of the pants feeling told me performance had gone down and I noticed a huge increase in the noise level - i.e. a big sucking noise when WOT.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/156529-80-series-k-n-vs-oem-air-filter.html
Pulled a K&N out of my 80 last year and put in an OEM air filter. I won't try to convince you one way or the other but I encourage you to read the information in the link above. FWIW I had a K&N FIPK2 in my '99 Durango for ~5 years. I never really noticed any detrimental affects but I also didn't notice any improvement either. In fact, my seat of the pants feeling told me performance had gone down and I noticed a huge increase in the noise level - i.e. a big sucking noise when WOT.
The 3FE motor in your truck is now 15 years old so it's past time to start replacing parts. The EGR system is most likely finished and this has left lots of poop in the throttle body as well as the associated vacuum lines. Use all OEM parts.
Replace the EGR valve and modulator (2 flying saucers mounted to the throttle body), replace all the soft vacuum lines, clear out the hard vacuum lines that are now blocked with poop, replace the 3 VSV valves mounted by the fusebox. Use all OEM parts.
Do a full tune up including plug wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and grommet, air filter, fuel filter (mounted to the frame rail) and adjust the valves (new gasket and grommets) according to the FSM. Use all OEM parts.
The O2 sensors are probably done and need to be replaced. Use OEM parts. The cats are likely clogged and should be replaced.
The fuel pump pre-filter (in the tank) is done and should be replaced along with the fan clutch. Both have a lifespan of 100K miles or so. Use OEM parts.
Make sure the cooling system is running on Toyota red and distilled water with a 50/50 mix.
That's a good start.
Replace the EGR valve and modulator (2 flying saucers mounted to the throttle body), replace all the soft vacuum lines, clear out the hard vacuum lines that are now blocked with poop, replace the 3 VSV valves mounted by the fusebox. Use all OEM parts.
Do a full tune up including plug wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and grommet, air filter, fuel filter (mounted to the frame rail) and adjust the valves (new gasket and grommets) according to the FSM. Use all OEM parts.
The O2 sensors are probably done and need to be replaced. Use OEM parts. The cats are likely clogged and should be replaced.
The fuel pump pre-filter (in the tank) is done and should be replaced along with the fan clutch. Both have a lifespan of 100K miles or so. Use OEM parts.
Make sure the cooling system is running on Toyota red and distilled water with a 50/50 mix.
That's a good start.
Do the easy stuff that you can to Improve MPG
Syn Lube in Front and Rear and engine will contribute to improving fuel economy.
Keep it tuned up to spec.
Run the tires at 35PSI.
Drive the speed limit.
Avoid jack rabbit starts and hard braking.
Limit idling.
Use premium gas.
Don't carry excess items that add to the tare weight of the LC.
All of this will allow you to get what it can get for MPG; and it is good for the mechanicals as well................gm
Syn Lube in Front and Rear and engine will contribute to improving fuel economy.
Keep it tuned up to spec.
Run the tires at 35PSI.
Drive the speed limit.
Avoid jack rabbit starts and hard braking.
Limit idling.
Use premium gas.
Don't carry excess items that add to the tare weight of the LC.
All of this will allow you to get what it can get for MPG; and it is good for the mechanicals as well................gm
I agree with everything you said except this. It will do nothing to improve fuel economy, but it will cost more.
Premium adds Fuel economy
I believe this to be true.
My Fj is my primary driver.
On my FJ, I get better fuel economy with 93 Octane.
I am consistently getting +2 MPG over 87 O.
I drive 35K per year on that vehicle; I believe the the extra $.25 per gallon is offset by the +2 mpg.
The math =
35000/19mpg=1843
35000/17mpg=2058
1843x$3.35=$6174
2058x$3.05=6277
Not a ton but better, it all adds up.
Try it and let me know.........gm
I believe this to be true.
My Fj is my primary driver.
On my FJ, I get better fuel economy with 93 Octane.
I am consistently getting +2 MPG over 87 O.
I drive 35K per year on that vehicle; I believe the the extra $.25 per gallon is offset by the +2 mpg.
The math =
35000/19mpg=1843
35000/17mpg=2058
1843x$3.35=$6174
2058x$3.05=6277
Not a ton but better, it all adds up.
Try it and let me know.........gm
A FJ what? FJ80s and FZJ80s don't have spark advance. Only newer vehicles have that technology.
also the fj80 and fzj80 where designed by toyota to run on 3rd world total sheit gas ... thats why they last so long and run so well... so I agree 93 octane will do nothing for your mileage
