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- #141
Nice! No, just this set of black F5s.
Builds Ikarus' LX470 Offroad Build and BS (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter ikarus
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- arb bumper lx470 offroad overland
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Nice! No, just this set of black F5s.
My LX brethren, Looks great!! Are you going to be adding a roof rack?
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- #144
Probably not. I like to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. But now that I have a ladder I’m tempted to get a low profile rack that I can stand on..
How was the ass end of your rig while loaded with the new slee rear bumper? I went through a process trying to figure out the best setup. Now that I also have drawers with full time gear in them, the 864's seem to be right setup for me.
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- #146
It started leveling out with only 100-200 lbs in there. I’ll need to figure out what springs to go with next. How much weight do you have back there with the 864s?
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- #148
285/75r16
I would say drawers and gear weigh 200 lbs? not really sure. But when I add additional; weight on trips, it handles that way better and doesn't sag too much. the 864's handle weight much better than the slee heavies in my opinion. I didn't notice a ride quality difference
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- #150
Good to know. I might go with those
Very nice! I can't wait to get my lift installed. looks to be in sometime next year... Amazon has spoiled the crap out of me. I am liking the snow shots it's gotta be amazing in the mountains.
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- #152
Spent some time out in the desert this weekend. Snowed a week ago and it looks like only one person has been out here since.
Spent some time looking for some caves that don't show up on any maps. Was able to find a couple -
This one was big enough that I could have driven into it.
Picked up the Expedition Utah geocache. Gotta figure out a good place to hide it next..
These Coopers have been awesome. These are my third set in the last three years - not because they've failed, I just keep going up in size and switching vehicles. Never had a flat, even with two or three screws/nails. Tough tires like these are a must have out in the west desert where there's no cell service, it's 60 miles to a gas station or paved road and the trails are covered in sharp rocks and railroad spikes.
My bumper's looking a little empty. I should have done the responsible thing and bought a winch, but I blew my christmas money on a .44. ha
The shortest route home was on a railroad causeway and then cutting down through the air force bombing range. Luckily no road closures for live fire on weekends.
Spent some time looking for some caves that don't show up on any maps. Was able to find a couple -
This one was big enough that I could have driven into it.
Picked up the Expedition Utah geocache. Gotta figure out a good place to hide it next..
These Coopers have been awesome. These are my third set in the last three years - not because they've failed, I just keep going up in size and switching vehicles. Never had a flat, even with two or three screws/nails. Tough tires like these are a must have out in the west desert where there's no cell service, it's 60 miles to a gas station or paved road and the trails are covered in sharp rocks and railroad spikes.
My bumper's looking a little empty. I should have done the responsible thing and bought a winch, but I blew my christmas money on a .44. ha
The shortest route home was on a railroad causeway and then cutting down through the air force bombing range. Luckily no road closures for live fire on weekends.
Dude, you capture great mood in your photography.
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- #154
Well I've had the LX for a little over a year now.
I wouldn't say this car has been unreliable, but in my case it seems that 150K was the magic number when parts started to wear out. Here's what I've done:
Preventative Maintenance:
- Heater Ts
- Timing belt and water pump (was not done by PO at 90K)
- Drained and baselined all fluids - oil, power steering, transmission etc.
- New cabin air filter
- Removed failing AHC and homemade rear springs, replaced with OME 2.5" lift (T bars, 860 springs, shocks, Slee diff drop, SPC UCAs)
- Rebooted CVs at time of lift
- Resealed leaking valve cover
- New wheels and tires
- New battery
Fixed:
- Replaced hood struts
- Recharged AC
- New fan and radiator shroud after fan exploded
- New spark plugs
- Replaced one dead coil pack
- New o2 sensors
- New brake rotors, calipers and pads after one locked up
- New belt tensioner, idler pulley, fan bracket and serpentine belt after I had a pulley lock up and lost power steering and alternator
- Replaced broken sway bar end links
- Ground off surface rust and painted on POR 15
- Replaced front and rear bumpers, previous owner seemed to enjoy fender benders
In hindsight I might have looked for a car with better service records, but like I said, parts wear out no matter what. I still love the car, and when it comes down to it, I still spend less on maintenance than I would on new car payments for a Tacoma or 200 series. Just my opinion for anyone in the market for a 100.
Now that I've replaced almost all the wearable parts with OEM stuff, it's going to be running great for a long long time. Feels super solid. Really all I have left to watch for is the starter, the steering rack and the coil packs and eventually replace the rear control arms.
I wouldn't say this car has been unreliable, but in my case it seems that 150K was the magic number when parts started to wear out. Here's what I've done:
Preventative Maintenance:
- Heater Ts
- Timing belt and water pump (was not done by PO at 90K)
- Drained and baselined all fluids - oil, power steering, transmission etc.
- New cabin air filter
- Removed failing AHC and homemade rear springs, replaced with OME 2.5" lift (T bars, 860 springs, shocks, Slee diff drop, SPC UCAs)
- Rebooted CVs at time of lift
- Resealed leaking valve cover
- New wheels and tires
- New battery
Fixed:
- Replaced hood struts
- Recharged AC
- New fan and radiator shroud after fan exploded
- New spark plugs
- Replaced one dead coil pack
- New o2 sensors
- New brake rotors, calipers and pads after one locked up
- New belt tensioner, idler pulley, fan bracket and serpentine belt after I had a pulley lock up and lost power steering and alternator
- Replaced broken sway bar end links
- Ground off surface rust and painted on POR 15
- Replaced front and rear bumpers, previous owner seemed to enjoy fender benders
In hindsight I might have looked for a car with better service records, but like I said, parts wear out no matter what. I still love the car, and when it comes down to it, I still spend less on maintenance than I would on new car payments for a Tacoma or 200 series. Just my opinion for anyone in the market for a 100.
Now that I've replaced almost all the wearable parts with OEM stuff, it's going to be running great for a long long time. Feels super solid. Really all I have left to watch for is the starter, the steering rack and the coil packs and eventually replace the rear control arms.
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- Thread starter
- #156
Yeah seems like an annoying job. Why did you replace it, did it die? And did you buy a new OEM starter?
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- #157
Spilled some milk in the back over the holidays and wasn't able to clean it up properly, so I got around to the carpet today.
Started pulling things apart and realized this was quickly gonna turn into a bigger project
After removing the tailgate plate, I removed the plastic hardware covers. Mine were held on with t20 torx screws.
Carpet pulls up easily from under the plastic trim on the sides.
It's in ok shape, but some of the insulation underneath is falling apart and the previous owner spilled something really weird on the right side there. Pancake batter? Tub of yogurt? who knows
Got a little surface rust and some real nasty stuff that's been there for a while. When I start doing projects I can't help myself, I have to tear everything down and start from the bottom.
To really get it clean I decided to remove all the latches for the 3rd row of seats - and then I got to thinking..
I don't use the third row of seats, so no need for seatbelts back there.
So that's where I'm at now. I'm going to replace the bolts but leave out all the hardware. I also think cleaning the carpet might not be worth the effort, and it'll still have the holes in it.
I found a thread by @El Cid where he replaced the rear cargo carpet with Bedrug bed liner.
Rear Cargo Area Overhaul(Subwoofer+Deadening+Carpet Replacement)
Bedrug
Seems sick. I'll most likely order a 10x6 sheet from them, and use my old carpet as a pattern to cut a new one with no holes and add insulation on the bottom. I know a guy who owns an upholstery shop so I'll just do it myself there and post results here.
Started pulling things apart and realized this was quickly gonna turn into a bigger project
After removing the tailgate plate, I removed the plastic hardware covers. Mine were held on with t20 torx screws.
Carpet pulls up easily from under the plastic trim on the sides.
It's in ok shape, but some of the insulation underneath is falling apart and the previous owner spilled something really weird on the right side there. Pancake batter? Tub of yogurt? who knows
Got a little surface rust and some real nasty stuff that's been there for a while. When I start doing projects I can't help myself, I have to tear everything down and start from the bottom.
To really get it clean I decided to remove all the latches for the 3rd row of seats - and then I got to thinking..
I don't use the third row of seats, so no need for seatbelts back there.
So that's where I'm at now. I'm going to replace the bolts but leave out all the hardware. I also think cleaning the carpet might not be worth the effort, and it'll still have the holes in it.
I found a thread by @El Cid where he replaced the rear cargo carpet with Bedrug bed liner.
Rear Cargo Area Overhaul(Subwoofer+Deadening+Carpet Replacement)
Bedrug
Seems sick. I'll most likely order a 10x6 sheet from them, and use my old carpet as a pattern to cut a new one with no holes and add insulation on the bottom. I know a guy who owns an upholstery shop so I'll just do it myself there and post results here.
Yes it died, the dreaded click, click. I think it was the original at least it looked original. It was a Denso remanufactured. With 187k I felt best to place everything rather than just replacing the contacts. I think just about everyone has a pic like this. Mouse or a rats nest made out of cigarette butts and dog or cat food in the valley!
Are you planning on taking out the OEM sound deadening patches or just go over the top of them? In my 62 I left them in and went over the top
because like yours mine was very clean. I think using dry ice to remove them is a PITA IMO. While you have that all out might as well do the quarter panels as well.
because like yours mine was very clean. I think using dry ice to remove them is a PITA IMO. While you have that all out might as well do the quarter panels as well.
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- #160
I know it’s tempting to go way too far and rip out the whole interior at this point.. but nah I agree, too much work. I’m just going to leave them. I used dry ice once to remove sound deadening in a BMW I was gutting for the track. Took a lot of workAre you planning on taking out the OEM sound deadening patches or just go over the top of them? In my 62 I left them in and went over the top
because like yours mine was very clean. I think using dry ice to remove them is a PITA IMO. While you have that all out might as well do the quarter panels as well.
