Rear Cargo Area Overhaul(Subwoofer+Deadening+Carpet Replacement) (1 Viewer)

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Rear Cargo Area Overhaul(Subwoofer+Sound Deadening+Carpet Replacement)

Below are my instructions for an overhaul of the cargo area in my 2000 LC. This encompasses a subwoofer replacement, sound deadening and carpet replacement. I recommend doing this all in one fell swoop as it saves time and cost. The problem that drove this is a) poor subwoofer b) noisy cargo area c) worn/wrong carpet. My carpet couldn’t continue to bear the repeated abuse it took at the hands of oily metal parts, gun powder, kid spills. It was time to go to a more functional surface. The whole idea here is to save everyone time and money, if you don’t like my config, no problem, but I think you’ll see how to avoid some of my mistakes and end up with a good modification, saving time and money in the process. What’s unique to my plan is you can do almost all of this yourself, but know that you’re going to need to accept two assumptions up front. They are:

  • Don’t even attempt to fit a subwoofer in the space where the stock enclosure was previously. The space is too limited to accept a worthwhile product. Don’t compromise sound quality by limiting yourself to unnecessary constraints. Build an enclosure or buy a sub+enclosure system you can simply drop in.
  • The carpet is old, second-rate, and just needs to be replaced. Buy the BedRug product I suggest and hire an automotive carpet professional. The pros in this business do great work and it’s worth the money.

Parts List:

1. .093 Molex connector. I recommend the 4-pin, but you can go lower if you have only one sub. No lower than two. Purchase from Mouser Electronics.
2. 16 gauge stereo wire. Buy 25 feet minimum. Purchase via innerned or a stereo shop.
3. BedRug BedTred pro 6x10 foot swath(non vehicle specific).
4. (4) Boxes of Dynamat $150 per box
5. (4) Boxes Dynaliner or sufficient to cover the Dynamat above.
6. Your choice of subwoofer. I used two(JL audio 6w3v3-4), since my 2000 model had wiring for dual subs.

Tools List:

1. Wire Crimping tool.
2. Flat blade screwdriver(for removing plastic.
3. Cleaning products, towels, dishwashing soap.
4. Box Cutter
5. Hex key
6. Phillips screwdriver(small)


Plan Outline
1. Remove plastic covering cargo area wheel wells
2. Remove carpet for the entire cargo area
3. Remove the subwoofer enclosure, disconnect the wiring from the wiring harness that runs to the subwoofer enclosure.
4. Remove plastic moulding where the 3rd row seats mount and the rest of the cargo area.
5. Clean the entire area and remove the loose, accumulated dirt.
6. Install Dynamat
7. Install Dynaliner.
8. Build a small wiring harness to connect the amp to the new subwoofer, by running the 16 gauge wiring from the amp under the carpet to the rear sub area. Use the Molex connector and build a new connection that allows you to reconnect the sub wiring as the old connections are of questionable strength.
9. After I had dynamatted, dynalined, and installed a wiring harness where the sub existed previously, I simply took my choice of truck bed product to an automotive installer and the rest of the work was complete. The wires for the new sub were run through openings in the driver side compartment that houses the jack.


Further Detail:
Removing the plastic is scary, but be methodical and take your time. It pops right off if you’ll pry under and find where the snaps connect to the metal inserts. It’s a set of snap plugs and you need to be cognizant of the 12 volt electricity connection that needs to be unsnapped in the drivers’ side rear most area. Once that’s done, use your hands and a flat blade to just slowly work your way under the plastic snap by snap. Even if you break a snap or two, you can find replacements. But for right now, plan on getting the plastic off and the carpet out. The carpet can’t come out fast enough and once it’s out, you’ll realize two things:

1) There is a lot of hidden dirt that needs to be cleaned. This turned into a bigger effort than I first realized.
2) Removing the plastic molding is necessary to really clean the area. Use the hex or phillips for that…

Once the area is prepped and cleaned, Dynamatting is just a matter of using the box cutter to cut strips and applying on every possible surface. In particular, pay attention to the wheel wells and the metal surface behind the wheel wells. The dynaliner rolls on a bit easier, but it’s a bit gentler, so don’t rest anything on it after that.

Valeria@bedrug.com is the contact person I spoke with at BedRug. They will sell a 10x6 sheet of their product and you can drop it off at an installer and the rest is Other Man’s labor. Yes, they will need to use some replacement foam/padding underneath, but that’s entirely normal. Also, they will have a good selection of paints to paint your plastic moulding, you want the flat black.

I used http://www.karsrkewl.com/ located in pleasant central Arlington, Texas two blocks from Jerry World. Worth the drive.

Here is a somewhat limited budget I used.


#Description Price
Molex Connector 3.99
Subwoofers(2) with enclosure. 6w3v3-4 420.00
Dynamat Xtreme 9 sheets(4 boxes) 600.00
Dynaliner (3 sheets, 54x32) 300.00
BedRug Material 100.00
Labor to Automotive Carpet Installer 210.00
Total
1,633.39

I'll attach photos next..
 
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Dynamat I.jpg
 
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Now with the Dynaliner, I did this in the cold, which I absolutely wouldn't recommend...
Dynamat 2.jpg
 
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Here is what the 4-pin Molex Connector looks like: When I yanked out the factory sub, I wanted new wiring rather than the old stuff so I built a connection I could remove and unsnap.
MolexConnectors.jpg
 
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RearCargo1 (1).jpg
RearCargo1 (3).jpg


This is after it's been abused a bit, reinforcing the need for a carpet that's durable and capable of handling spills . The sound quality is a vast improvement and I like JL audio product. A single sub is plenty, but since I had the wiring for two subs, I just stuck with the dual sub set up.

Generally, the subs sit behind the 3rd row seats.
 
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And Voila, here is what the finished product looked like, after the upholsterer had done the great work, and before I set the subs in the box .Let me outline the grand conclusion one final time.

The space necessary for even a modest sub replacement using the factor enclosure isn't worth the effort. the more I tried to cut, fit, redesign, I realized I was compromising improvement in sound quality. Defeats the entire point of the modification. Replacing a single sub is probably doable, but the products are out there at good prices to give you a nice upgrade. So ditch the factory sub enclosure and don't look back. Get a tough sub enclosure, run long wires and hide it behind the 3rd row.

There are a LOT of sound deadening options. Mine is by no means the best, just the most convenient and relatively cost effective. I would absolutely challenge someone to go full tilt and use the better products. It would be worth it to me. By no means am I suggesting Dynamat is the elite product. I noticed improvements immediately. Particularly on the tailgate and wheel wells.

For about $300 I did the entire carpet replacement for the cargo area. Bedrug is a terrific product, I strongly recommend it, but more importantly, don't try to circumvent the work of a good auto upholster shop. I searched high and low and realized that the craftsmanship was well worth it and the price was cheap in retrospect. Can't stress this enough. A good auto upholsterer can work wonders.

The factory carpet is/was pretty lame. Bedrug was water repellant, durable and flexible enough to be cut and molded to the cargo specifications. So ditch that factory carpet. The biggest challenge was deciding how to paint the molding. Turns out I had a shiny, when I needed a flat. I'll try to dig up where I found it, but the upholster used the same product I had found.

Finally, when you combine the sound deadening with a solid subwoofer upgrade, you'll notice impressive results. The ride is quieter and the music is great. The acoustics of any SUV are tough, but I recommend putting a lot of power in the rear subs and using the conch effect to fill the cabin with nice sound. I hope this helps..
 
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Not commenting on the effectiveness of that product, but it would help greatly if they could outline the underlying 'science' of that approach. Dynaliner/Mat sells because it's easy to install. I don't think people are that price sensitive.

While I certainly am leaning towards using that product for the 2nd round, a graphic depiction of the science and a nudge regarding the installation procedures would help quite a bit.
 

fireball

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It's peel and stick, not science man!

My entire order, which was to do the whole truck, was like $750. Actually if you look on his website, the LC100 kit is based off my truck and the few sentences he wrote about the truck were from pictures I sent him once I had removed the interior.

Not sure if you put foam and MLV over the wheel wells, but that is where the most noise enters, especially for those of us (the majority?) who are running ATs or MTs.
 
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It's peel and stick, not science man!

s.

no, no no. The science that makes that material more effective.

And believe me when I say removing the headliner in any vehicle is not a peel and stick proposition.
 

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