So awesome.
Builds Ikarus' LX470 Offroad Build and BS (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter ikarus
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- arb bumper lx470 offroad overland
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Great photos, agreed not the best shot of the LX haha
- Thread starter
- #63
Got around to rust proofing today. Little bit of a process. Removed the bumpers
and found some rust on the rear quarter panel. Luckily that's the worst, the rest is surface rust.
I'll have to get that patched up this week
Needed some jack stands last minute, so I picked up some HF 12 tons. Honestly not too bad.
Wire wheeled the loose flakes off, degreased, and washed - now it's drying, ready for the metal prep and POR 15 tomorrow.
The bumper brackets were super crusty and all bent up from the previous owner's fender benders. I was planning on buying gears, lockers and 35s this month, but I really don't want to put the stock bumpers back on. I'll probably order a Slee rear and ARB front this week.
- Thread starter
- #64
The POR 15 is making everything look great already. I took my time and hand brushed it on, only took 7 hours haha. Probably just gonna spray next time.
Halfway done. Tomorrow I'll paint on the primer, then wait 24 hours and rattle can it black with UV resistant spray paint because POR 15 breaks down when exposed to sunlight.
Nice job there. Really considering doing the Por15 on my rig...even though it's a TX rig.
I was not too happy with POR15 on the sliders. It started to flake off after a few weeks of me stepping on them. I cleaned the metal with degreaser but did not use their exact prep steps but I was not expecting flakes. I tried adding more but same thing. I may need to go back and possibly sand and recoat.
Yours looks good. It was definitely a messy process and I hope you wore a mask and safety glasses...that stuff is nasty.
Yours looks good. It was definitely a messy process and I hope you wore a mask and safety glasses...that stuff is nasty.
- Thread starter
- #67
For sure, I think it looks a lot better and it's nice to have the protection.
I could see that. My friend por 15'd his jeep and the same thing happened to him. I think he didn't prep it enough and he didn't topcoat it, so sunlight broke it down and it started flaking off. I made sure to scuff up any smooth areas as the company said that por 15 sticks to rusty and seasoned metal much better than glossy/bare metal surfaces.
And yeah, stuff is super nasty. My arms are covered in black. Luckily acetone took most of it off
I have used POR15 on undercarriage components for years and never top-coated...very little UV exposure...never had an issue with fade or failure and as tough if not tougher than a typical powder-coat. I always brush two thin coats with the second applied when first is still slightly tacky/not fully cured. I've played with the satin/matte finish and not had as consistent of results as the flatteners don't always distribute evenly. Plus, mud and dirt washes right off the gloss finish.
Most all "raw" sliders or newly constructed steel parts will have a thick coating of mill scale from the foundry which needs to be completely removed for POR15 to properly adhere or it will definitely flake off. I spray down new steel with muriatic acid several times which melts most of it off. A light scrub with an abrasive pad will remove the rest. Wash it down with water and it will form a nice light orange rust layer perfect for the POR15 to bond with. I do top coat sliders, bumpers, roof racks, etc that have direct sun exposure. Simple rattle can prior to the POR completely curing has worked best for me and super easy to touch-up after dragging across rocks. I've used their proprietary topcoats as well and not noticed any benefit in longevity. So long as the new metal is completely mill scale free and prepped, there should be zero issues with flaking or failure.
Most all "raw" sliders or newly constructed steel parts will have a thick coating of mill scale from the foundry which needs to be completely removed for POR15 to properly adhere or it will definitely flake off. I spray down new steel with muriatic acid several times which melts most of it off. A light scrub with an abrasive pad will remove the rest. Wash it down with water and it will form a nice light orange rust layer perfect for the POR15 to bond with. I do top coat sliders, bumpers, roof racks, etc that have direct sun exposure. Simple rattle can prior to the POR completely curing has worked best for me and super easy to touch-up after dragging across rocks. I've used their proprietary topcoats as well and not noticed any benefit in longevity. So long as the new metal is completely mill scale free and prepped, there should be zero issues with flaking or failure.
- Thread starter
- #69
Awesome, good to know. Yeah it seems pretty tough already. Just finished with the primer. After reading your comment I decided not to stress over covering everything completely, was taking way too long with a brush. I'm going to rattle can it tomorrow morning and call it good.
- Thread starter
- #70
Finished up the top coat over the primer. The whole setup feels real durable and I'm hoping I'll avoid rust problems in the future.
The rust really wasn't that bad except for the driver's side rear quarter panel. Don't know what happened there
This whole captive nut assembly fell out of the frame. Luckily the recovery point captive nuts are fine. Will have to address this when I install a rear bumper.
Unfortunately broke the front trim piece, but it looks like it's only $100 for a new one. This one was super brittle and cracked easily.
Also removed the hood blackout panel. I remembered how much I dislike matte black anything, just too much work to keep clean. Seemed like it looked perpetually dusty. It did help with glare but I think I'll be fine..
Now that I've got these projects wrapped up, all I have to do next is wait for bumpers. ARB deluxe bar will be here in the next week, and Slee rear by the middle of November. Stoked!
The rust really wasn't that bad except for the driver's side rear quarter panel. Don't know what happened there
This whole captive nut assembly fell out of the frame. Luckily the recovery point captive nuts are fine. Will have to address this when I install a rear bumper.
Unfortunately broke the front trim piece, but it looks like it's only $100 for a new one. This one was super brittle and cracked easily.
Also removed the hood blackout panel. I remembered how much I dislike matte black anything, just too much work to keep clean. Seemed like it looked perpetually dusty. It did help with glare but I think I'll be fine..
Now that I've got these projects wrapped up, all I have to do next is wait for bumpers. ARB deluxe bar will be here in the next week, and Slee rear by the middle of November. Stoked!
I wanna see those Hutchinson's on there! If not, send em this way please!
- Thread starter
- #72
I know, I want to get em mounted up but I think I'll just wait til the spring and put some STT Pro mud terrains on there. These ST Maxx will be good for the snow for now
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- #76
Nice. Gonna shave the light tabs or try the trick @diego355 posted?
Either way this is going to look great with those F5's ..
And even better one day with those Hutchinson's
I'm going to shave off the tabs. I'll probably just put a couple lights in the center of the hoops and call it good.
A local guy here that I haven't met has a 100 with ARB front and rear and the hutchinsons mounted with 285/70r17 ko2s. I'll snap a pic the next time I see it parked so you can get an idea.
Post up your ARB when it's on with the adjustments you made so it will fit the LX.
Great looking rig! I have my eyes on the SCS F5s as well, probably will wait a bit until I have a lift and better tires.
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- #80
Thanks man. I'm down, I'm just here in SLC. Where do you usually go wheeling? I'm out in the west desert a lot
Would love to see that, thanks man! I've only seen two land cruisers with Hutchinsons.
Thanks man! Yeah it's tough prioritizing. These wheels and tires were my first mod, before a lift
