Idaho 73 40 series (1 Viewer)

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So you have a plastic not metal front grill emblem and front heater with the vent at the top? Heater and emblem were there just changed for the 74 model. Also for 74 the F155 changed to improved oiling system. Curious of your A pillar stamped build date. 9/73 was when the 74 model year started. States titling them by build date verses what a manufacturer say what model year it is was common. By this time the owner's manual have the model year on them. Have a original owner's manual for my 73.
As matter of fact, mine is a 9/73. Vermont titled it a 73 and so it has always been. I have my manual, but it’s not handy to check. If I remember correctly, I had the 155 sticker on the head, but it’s been many years since I pulled that engine. I also think the oil filter was on passenger side, but there are to many alcohol soaked cobwebs to be sure.
I thought 74s had ambulance doors? I have a lift gate like the OP.
 
What trans are you running now ?
I have the sm465/3 speed transfer. It’s great offroad. Lo first is nice in the rocks and steep terrain. On the highway it’s ok. Kinda clunky/stiff and I feel like it could use one more gear. But I don’t go over 60 around here.
I’ve thought about an auto, but the short driveshaft frightens me. That being said, a lot of people have slush boxes on here with no issue.
Orion would be sweet, but I don’t have the funds. Split cases are also well spoken of, but I don’t see to many 60/62s being parted anymore. Couple 80s if you look around. Their fulltime 4wd, though so I’m not really interested in those.
 
Long time since I posted, went down to southern Utah with a great group of people riding shotgun in my buddies samurai in sand hollow for a weekend of wheeling

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His samurai is has yota axles, 5.29s, spool rear locker front, 6.5 tcase gears, front 3 link and air shocks, etc
The explorer is on waggy 44’s, 3 link front with coilovers and front and rear spools

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And of course after a weekend of wheeling I in with my buddies I came home super motivated to work on mine. It’s a little tough right now, since we are living with my in-laws while our house is being “built” and everything I own is in storage units haha
Anyways Just so happened that the day I went back to work after my trip a guy brought in a cruiser motor for some work he mentioned that the yard he got his motor from still had these axles under the 60 he pulled his motor and trans out of.
I snagged up the axles and leaf springs for a great price. Then ordered a bunch of stuff from trail gear a ruff stuff to get the fun going

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Alright so I have all my spring perches, frame out riggers built, spring hangers, and shackles hangers ready to go and I started thinking (and I searched and didn’t find any answers that helped me) but how do I determine distance between the spring hanger center of eye and shackle hanger center of eye to get the proper shackle angle? How long of a shackle should I run? And what is the preferred angle? I’m running 60 springs and axles. My main goal with this is off-road (crawling) performance. Any advice or pointing me in the right direction would be very appreciated

Also took my axle in to work for a dip in the hot tank to clean off all the old crap

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Got the axle over to my buddies shop and started cleaning it up cut off the old brackets and spring perches and he did a ton of welding and grinding while I drank his beer ha. He also fired up his plasmacam table and cut out a drain plug armor plate. I also picked up high steer arms
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Alright so I have all my spring perches, frame out riggers built, spring hangers, and shackles hangers ready to go and I started thinking (and I searched and didn’t find any answers that helped me) but how do I determine distance between the spring hanger center of eye and shackle hanger center of eye to get the proper shackle angle? How long of a shackle should I run? And what is the preferred angle? I’m running 60 springs and axles. My main goal with this is off-road (crawling) performance. Any advice or pointing me in the right direction would be very appreciated

MUD has a separate Hardcore forum where you can find a lot of suspension info. Using stock 60 springs in an SOA configuration guarantees they’re going to be basically flat. Since SOA articulation is all about the droop, I would be inclined to set the shackle hangers far enough back to run the shackles almost horizontal.

Of course, then you have to figure out the droop limits of your driveline angles and set limiter straps to prevent binding. Lots of trial and error.

Enjoy.
 
What do the door pulls look like?

I drive a late '74. From what I understand the '74s where the only year with the long black door handles.
Note: the FJ Co. truck seems to have some aftermarket unit. But note the hole spacing is wider than the metal handles found on all the other early model doors. It's probably a WAY better handle than original.

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What do the door pulls look like?

I drive a late '74. From what I understand the '74s where the only year with the long black door handles.
Note: the FJ Co. truck seems to have some aftermarket unit. But note the hole spacing is wider than the metal handles found on all the other early model doors. It's probably a WAY better handle than original.

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Don't Have door anymore. Maybe one day ill get another set and a top. Need a tub first though, I think mine is past the point of repair.
 
What do the door pulls look like?

I drive a late '74. From what I understand the '74s where the only year with the long black door handles.
Note: the FJ Co. truck seems to have some aftermarket unit. But note the hole spacing is wider than the metal handles found on all the other early model doors. It's probably a WAY better handle than original.

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View attachment 1927665

View attachment 1927666
That last pic, on the blue door, is an ambi door pull from a later model.
 
@gericurl , @65swb45

Not to hijack the thread, but in the four pictures above of four different right hand doors, the first three have the crank handle above the counter spring, the bottom one has the crank below the spring.

Which is correct, and, how does the incorrect setup work?
 
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Is there any value to my F engine, 3 speed trans and tcase? As far as i can tell its as stock as can be, runs well just leaks oil.
I will have the motor, axles (disc Brake Front, Drum rear), 3speed Trans, Tcase, 4 speed trans, 4 inch skyjacker springs and probably my hood for sale here soon.
 
Is there any value to my F engine, 3 speed trans and tcase? As far as i can tell its as stock as can be, runs well just leaks oil.
I will have the motor, axles (disc Brake Front, Drum rear), 3speed Trans, Tcase, 4 speed trans, 4 inch skyjacker springs and probably my hood for sale here soon.

For a long time the F engines didn’t have any value. In the last year that has finally started to change.

If you want to get anything other than scrap value for it, you should take some dry and wet compression readings on it, as well as a numeric oil pressure reading before you pull it.

If the motor is not up to snuff, there is still some value in parts. I routinely buy stock air cleaners, carburetors and manifolds.
 
@gericurl , @65swb45

Not to hijack the thread, but in the four pictures above of four different right hand doors, the first three have the crank handle above the counter spring, the bottom one has the crank below the spring.

Which is correct, and, how does the incorrect setup work?
Didn't even notice that. To my knowledge 3rd pic is wrong. I don't know that it would even work. Maybe if you swapped the driver's side with the passenger side crank then flipped them upside down, but even then, I would expect limited window travel. ???
 
Alright so I have all my spring perches, frame out riggers built, spring hangers, and shackles hangers ready to go and I started thinking (and I searched and didn’t find any answers that helped me) but how do I determine distance between the spring hanger center of eye and shackle hanger center of eye to get the proper shackle angle? How long of a shackle should I run? And what is the preferred angle? I’m running 60 springs and axles. My main goal with this is off-road (crawling) performance. Any advice or pointing me in the right direction would be very appreciated

Also took my axle in to work for a dip in the hot tank to clean off all the old crap

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I would use fj60 spring hangers on the frame-fj60 bushings are beefier. Tack weld the shackle hanger on the frame. Then once rig is sitting on it's own weight, flex suspension and move hanger as needed and play with angles and langths of shackle.
 
Has anyone Ran the 5.3 to a mid 90's GM NV4500 in a cruiser? I have a few questions...
1) Will the drive shaft hit the slave cylinder if i use the Factory GM Bellhousing? I don't Really want to buy the AA bellhousing if i don't have to.
2) Fromt what i have found while searching I will just use a clutch, flywheel, and flywheel spacer from a late model GM truck with the 4.8 and NV4500, am i correct in my findings?
3) Not NV4500 Related but has anyone used a champion Radiator with a V8? Hows the Quality?
 

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