- Thread starter
- #21
It is the only one in Camden.
I need tranfer case HELP!
- Thread starter Pauljthegreat
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- Thread starter
- #22
I have a 4 speed. I have had the land cruiser for about 12 years and it has never had 2nd gear I said i would replace the transmission when I needed a clutch. Well I'm about to need a clutch . I plan on replacing the freeze plugs behind the flywheel and the rear main seal, clutch plate, pressure plate,throughout bearing, pilot bearing. I had not planned on rebuilding the transfer case. Just going to replace the front and rear output shaft seals and uses black rtv to seal the case back up. But now I m not sure what to do.
I responded over on my old RMS thread but from personal experience I'd rebuild while you're in there. It's all pulled apart already and from my mistakes I wish I had just done it right the first time. Definitely new gaskets cause that gear oil seems to find every little hole and starts a drip dripping. You're doing the RMS and output shaft seals to help stop oil leaks so my opinion would be to prevent the rest of the t-case from doing the same while you're there. But, you know what they say about opinions lol.
If you were closer I’d give you a 4 speed. I’ve got a couple in the shed from old conversions.
That being said, if you were so inclined an upgrade to a 5 speed might be an idea. A new 5 speed
is going to be just shy of $3K after shipping etc. You can source a transfer case rebuild kit from
two of the best sources either Georg at Valley Hybrids. @orangefj45
Or you can try Kurt @cruiseroutfit he has full inventory of rebuild kits as well.
If you don’t have 2nd gear I wouldn’t bother rebuilding the transmission, finding a good second hand unit
Or upgrading is the best option.
I don’t think Kurt has a shop. Georg might be able to provide a transmission with rebuilt transfer case attached.
Do you feel comfortable taking on rebuilding the transfer are yourself? It’s quite satisfying to do, you’ll get to buy a
couple of new tools to do it. I have done it twice, for me it takes some time but it still works.
Luckily clutches are readily available and just the cost of maintenance and you do that as a matter of
course when you get into the transmission.
That being said, if you were so inclined an upgrade to a 5 speed might be an idea. A new 5 speed
is going to be just shy of $3K after shipping etc. You can source a transfer case rebuild kit from
two of the best sources either Georg at Valley Hybrids. @orangefj45
Or you can try Kurt @cruiseroutfit he has full inventory of rebuild kits as well.
If you don’t have 2nd gear I wouldn’t bother rebuilding the transmission, finding a good second hand unit
Or upgrading is the best option.
I don’t think Kurt has a shop. Georg might be able to provide a transmission with rebuilt transfer case attached.
Do you feel comfortable taking on rebuilding the transfer are yourself? It’s quite satisfying to do, you’ll get to buy a
couple of new tools to do it. I have done it twice, for me it takes some time but it still works.
Luckily clutches are readily available and just the cost of maintenance and you do that as a matter of
course when you get into the transmission.
Thanks for the referral!
We do have a shop here in SLC (Murray) and we can definitely help with parts only OR we ship complete transmission/t-cases regularly. Either rebuild t-cases OR brand new Toyota case.
If you plan to re-use your old t-case, to take it off its basically almost completely apart, A rebuild kit would be a good idea while your in there if you go that route IMO
And i get replacing the rear main, but why the plugs? btw they arent technically freeze plugs on the rear of the block as they retain oil and not water but honestly who cares what theyre called haha. its the main oil gallery welch and the cam plug. If you have an 85 you ahould have a hex plug instead of a welch plug which will be easier, i just did a writeup about the welch plug if you do change that.
Also IMO as i changed from 4 to 5 speed. The 4speed is better for in town and the 5 is better for highway/crawling. The 4speed gears 1-3 have a higher ratio thus letting you take off from stop lights quicker, the 5 speed is atleast for me considerably slower in gears 1-3, but you get more torque to the wheels. In both transmissions 4th gear is the same, and obviously the 5speed has the overdrive
Before removing the drive shafts ..make match marks on them so you can put them back on the same way.
I recommend getting a one piece oil pan gasket and removing the pan and the rear crank bearing retainer to place the RMS instead of trying to drive it in. Sucks to get the trans/t'case back in only to realize your new RMS is leaking like a sieve cause the inner lip got torn trying to drive it in.
If you have loads of miles on it replace your clutch now while the trans is out. Also get the flywheel re-surfaced.
T-case...if it isn't broke you can wait on a rebuild. But you're going to have to open it to put it on a new transmission so you may as well get a kit and replace as much as you can.
I recommend getting a one piece oil pan gasket and removing the pan and the rear crank bearing retainer to place the RMS instead of trying to drive it in. Sucks to get the trans/t'case back in only to realize your new RMS is leaking like a sieve cause the inner lip got torn trying to drive it in.
If you have loads of miles on it replace your clutch now while the trans is out. Also get the flywheel re-surfaced.
T-case...if it isn't broke you can wait on a rebuild. But you're going to have to open it to put it on a new transmission so you may as well get a kit and replace as much as you can.
There should be a taper in the RMS slot to prevent tearing, mine WAS sharp because the main thrust bearing completely worn down and the flywheel was grinding against the block. After a rebuild i used a dremel to remake the taper and the seal slid right in smoothly.
removing the rear crank bearing is iffy to me, you wouldnt want to mess with the oil clearances by over or under tightening the beaaring retainer, As well as risking an improper reinstallation of the bearing (i forget if it has oil galley holes in the rear main bearing)
Not sure what "main thrust bearing" you are talking about. FSM says to replace the #3 crank bearing as a set if thrust clearances are out of spec for the crank. My flywheel wasn't rubbing on the block so no damage to the seal slot. My friend who is a master mechanic tapped the new Toyota seal in with a small ball peen hammer working his way around as he has done many times with many seals. Everything looked good but the inner lip of the seal was tearing and you can't see it happening. I didn't realize it until all was back together and then it leaked even worse. About a month later I took the trans/tcase out again and pulled the pan and the rear bearing cap and placed the seal. The top bearing will stay pinned between the crank and the block. The bottom 1/2 will come out. It only goes back in one way because the notches have to line up with the top 1/2 of the bearing. This will make sure the oil slot in the bearing is lined up. You can't put it in backwards. The oil hole is in the top 1/2 of the bearing.
You do make a point about re-torquing as it should be done in sequence along with the rest of the bearing caps. Also need to be careful not to let the lower 1/2 of the bearing fall out when you remove the cap and hit the floor and break.
You do make a point about re-torquing as it should be done in sequence along with the rest of the bearing caps. Also need to be careful not to let the lower 1/2 of the bearing fall out when you remove the cap and hit the floor and break.
Main bearings/thrust bearing i ment the same thing, when you install a main bearing cap your right it can go in only one way, i cant exactly reacall but i want to say the bearings can be rotated 180 degrees and still fit, but when assembling an engine you plastiguage the crank bearings to determine how much the new torque is. retorqing to the new spec thats tbd after the bearing has been worn down is critical. And why risk getting oil on the wrong side of the bearing face. I would remeber this very tedious step as ive rebuilt my engine.
ive replaced maybe 3 RMS and have never had an inner lip fail just the outter lip. When installed correclty the seal will require little effort to install without removing the oil pan.
Not implying that your way wont work, just saying it sounds like a lot of extra work that can be avoided
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- Thread starter
- #33
Very good information. Thank you.
some more reading on removing the RMS read Poser's descriptions. Oil pan/ side cover gasket stuff....(FAQ)
Posers stuff is always good reads! Helped a lot when I did my rear main and oil pan. His posts were what I used and what worked for me
For me, adding the oil pan gasket to the block is way easier than to the pan then to block. Far easier w/ sealer on the arches.
Curious as to the benefits of upgrading to a 5speed. Thanks!
15% overdrive in 5th (versus 1:1 4th in H41/42)
Lower 1st Gear
Brand new trans so quite and smooth
I'd say the over-drive is the reason 95% of folks love them.
Wish I knew what the 1st part meant...quite + smooth sounds great tho15% overdrive in 5th (versus 1:1 4th in H41/42)
Lower 1st Gear
Brand new trans so quite and smooth
I'd say the over-drive is the reason 95% of folks love them.
Wish I knew what the 1st part meant...quite + smooth sounds great tho
It means your RPM's will drop 15% at the same speed, say 70mph.
Or you can look at it the other way. If you could do 70mph at the top of your comfortable RPM range, you can now do 80mph at the exact same RPM (this assuming your motor has the power to push). That might clear up why it's such a popular mod. I did the H55F in my personal FJ40 in 2001, it's still one of my favorite mods. I've now had them in 4x/6x/7x variants, love em all.