I like these top posts, but

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Would you be afraid these two might accidentally touch and melt the whole thing? Is there a better wqy to secure them than just by tightening them to the post?

Screen Shot 2022-06-24 at 5.40.55 AM Large Medium.jpeg


Screen Shot 2022-06-24 at 5.40.55 AM Large.jpeg
 
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Yea, sus...

You could use a nylon bar between two of the bolts to lock them into place.
 
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ceylonfj40nut

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Did not know 80s could power a city. Now I know.

I would use a BlueSea bus bar instead.
 

mudgudgeon

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Why do you want that many circuits connected directly to the battery?
Run cable to a BUS bar or fuse box mounted away from the battery so you can fuse circuits away from the battery
 
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I agree - I wouldn't need that many and was considering the bus bar first as I prepare to do a second battery install. But, I ran across these on the internet and they look pretty cool. My first thought is that it would result in one solid block of aluminum fused on top of my battery! Maybe you could just put electrical tape along the inner edges of the blocks
 
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clx16

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@mudgudgeon said it right. But even if you did use that monstrosity, how would you justify the negative terminal having one of those on there?
 
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I agree it looks like a ridiculous proposition but, I'm a newbie to electronic outfitting an overlanding vehicle. I have the 2nd battery kit that I will be installing in a week or two, and I'm trying to plan ahead. I don't have crazy plans for this rig: winch, lights up front, stereo amp, inverter, and a plug in the back for a cooler (not refrigerator). There is currently a little parasitic draw (from the alarm/remote starter probably) that I'm going to solve along the way. I was also going to add a battery disconnect switch because the truck does sit some times for a couple of weeks between uses. I'm blessed to have a daily driver LX450 and a land cruiser for more fun offroading.
 

clx16

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Well you should make things easy long-term and put another fuse box/relay box under the hood and another fuse box in the cab. Keep your after market wiring out of the stock stuff and put a disconnect from your rig so you can cut full circuits out of the equation should you need to get to basics to get home. Run a line from your battery with a fuse or circuit breaker as close to the battery as you can. Then run that you your separate fuse/relay box. Do the math and make sure your fuses match the loads and label/document what you run.

It's a good time to separate out your stereo circuit and run it on your own fuse box since after market stuff likely draws more than your stock wiring is designed for.
 

cruisermatt

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Those pics are from a high performance car audio oriented battery (Full Throttle) so it makes sense there
I've had just as many connections if not more before on each post in a vehicle

for our applications not so much
 

Njck22

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Running heavy gauge wires off a battery terminals with no fuses is the easiest way to burn down your rig. It’s lazy. Run a 500 amp fuse for your winch. Then another wire for a sub bus bar probably with a 50 amp fuse. Also what a pain if you ever need to change a battery.
 
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Would suggest researching threads in the FAQ for adding circuits to your rig:
 
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