Hydraulic Clutch Question for the LS Swap crow

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badsamaritan

badsamaritan

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Feb 16, 2011
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Location
San Diego, CA
Been having a hell of a time getting a clutch slave to work. I have been using AA stuff for years, but since my slave failed I can't find another one that works. What Hydraulic Clutch slaves are you guys running? I bought a replacement slave from them, and it failed and started weeping after 1 trip around my block. Bought a beck/arnley replacement and it doesn't throw enough to fully engage the clutch.

My setup:

5.3LS / SM420
AA Clutch Kit
AA / Toyota Hyd. Slave Cylinder with extended throw
AA Clutch Slave Bracket
AA straight throwout bearing Arm.
 
pbgbottle said:
With my sm465. I just use the 1978 Toyota clutch master and slave , I have run the earlier 1972 3sp slave I think it was with the 1978 master but that was years ago, it worked fine for me.
Click to expand...
is there a difference in the 78 and the earlier years? I replaced both the master and slave after finding some kind of tar in the master and lots of rust in the slave. I have a 1969 and I think I just ordered a 69 master.
 
If you have good exhaust clearance, then stock OEM slave with my 3/4” MC kit is the ticket
 
I think I figured out the problem....When I replaced the slave, I added a clutch return spring as well. The tension on that spring is way too much. When I removed the spring everything worked fine as far as I can tell. I wasn't able to move the rig far, but I was able to get it running and shift it into gear with no issue which is a huge improvement. I just need to go find a light spring
 
What fluid are you using? Dot 3. There are two adjustments, one is the fork on the master, the other is the push rod on the slave.
Maybe you have regular grease eating the seals - use only "real red rubber grease". Maybe add a thin heat shield over the slave.
 
I'm using Toyota DOT 3, I'll know more in the morning when I can try and drive it. This configuration has been on the rig for about 13years besides the spring I added. I wasn't surprised when the master and slave were full of gunk. I think the seals in both just turned to mush and the slave was packed full of rust.
The AA spring I picked up is just too stiff. I think the slave wasn't able to overcome the tension and the clutch spring tension. Once I yanked that spring it seemed fine. Tomorrow will be first test.
 
I'm curious, what bellhousing and clutch parts are you running?
I run a sbc and use the stk sm420 bellhousing, clutch, pp, fork and T/O bearing, along with the later model stk FJ40 Aisin master and slave. I made my own slave bracket.

It's odd that your return spring would effect anything, considering the amount of pressure it takes to depress the pp.
 
Last edited:
The clutch release arm has 2 positions that the rod can be used in. Which one are you using? The one closest to the throwout bearing will provide more movement.

clutch release arm.webp
 
I adjust the clutch per the fsm. Set pedal height, this ensures maximum stroke of the master and slave, adjust pedal freeplay, this is when the slave piston starts to move. The adjust the clutch rod, the piston needs to be fully seated in the back of the bore.
20220711_211038.webp
 
pb4ugo said:
I'm curious, what bellhousing and clutch parts are you running?
I run a sbc and use the stk sm420 bellhousing, clutch, pp, fork and T/O bearing, along with the later model stk FJ40 Aisin master and slave. I made my own slave bracket.

It's odd that your return spring would effect anything, considering the amount of pressure it takes to depress the pp.
Click to expand...

I'm using AA's LS swap clutch kit that is a LUK brand GM clutch. Bellhousing is a old school stock GM bell. I took it for a drive today around my neighbor hood and all seemed well. Prior to taking off AA's spring, I couldn't even get it into gear.

Here's the spring, it's pretty big. I should've known better
 
B y r o n said:
The clutch release arm has 2 positions that the rod can be used in. Which one are you using? The one closest to the throwout bearing will provide more movement.

View attachment 4038091
Click to expand...

That's the same arm I am using as well. I'm using the inboard hole closest to the TO bearing.
 
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