How to make rear windows work with tube doors? (1 Viewer)

[mudgudgeon]

Thanks for the help! Looks like the part numbers are for male and female. Where do you find the part numbers for these various connectors?

The connectors have a partial part number molded into the plastic, its the last 5 digits
I think you add 90001-***** to the number on the connector.
Beno/Onur can probably clarify the prefix to use

 

[jcardona1]

Pretty trick tube doors! Looks pretty elaborate

Thanks! These are made by MUD member @NCTrey133 Got a DIY kit from him and added a few extras like armrest, speaker pod, filler panel by the fender, and mirrors.

 

[ProjectsNMotion]

Thanks for the help! Looks like the part numbers are for male and female. Where do you find the part numbers for these various connectors?

I downloaded a copy of the Toyota Wire Harness Repair Manual a while back. There's a lot of good info in there. You can identify part numbers for connectors as well as terminal sizes. In addition to that manual, if you didn't already know, nearly every electrical connector on these vehicles was made by either Sumitomo or Yazaki and those two brands are so similar that some terminals are interchangeable between either brands connectors.

Thanks! That's making a little more sense now, now I can see where the power comes from. And here is the ground at BJ1 pin 11 that @ProjectsNMotion mentioned.

The body harness can provide a ground connection through terminal 11. When operating normally, if controlling one of the rear windows from the driver's switch panel, both the ground and power are supplied by the driver's switch panel. Also when operating normally, if controlling one of the rear windows from the local switch for that window, the power goes through that local switch but the ground goes through the driver's switch panel. You need to replicate that ground. You can do that by bridging terminal 11 to terminals 12, 15, 16, and 17.

Cheers

 

[ProjectsNMotion]

The connectors have a partial part number molded into the plastic, its the last 5 digits
I think you add 90001-***** to the number on the connector.
Beno/Onur can probably clarify the prefix to use

The connectors generally start with 90980

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

The connectors generally start with 90980

Cheers

Thanks, I knew someone would know. I was almost close
½ baked memory sometimes gets the right bit of useless information

 

[jcardona1]

I downloaded a copy of the Toyota Wire Harness Repair Manual a while back. There's a lot of good info in there. You can identify part numbers for connectors as well as terminal sizes. In addition to that manual, if you didn't already know, nearly every electrical connector on these vehicles was made by either Sumitomo or Yazaki and those two brands are so similar that some terminals are interchangeable between either brands connectors.



The body harness can provide a ground connection through terminal 11. When operating normally, if controlling one of the rear windows from the driver's switch panel, both the ground and power are supplied by the driver's switch panel. Also when operating normally, if controlling one of the rear windows from the local switch for that window, the power goes through that local switch but the ground goes through the driver's switch panel. You need to replicate that ground. You can do that by bridging terminal 11 to terminals 12, 15, 16, and 17.

Cheers

Thanks again for all your help - glad this one had an easy workaround. Just got the parts ordered and I'll post up once I have it all figured out. I should have done this as well for the speaker wiring instead of tapping into the wiring. The front driver door speaker also goes through BJ1, pins 7 & 8. Oh well!

 

[ProjectsNMotion]

Thanks again for all your help - glad this one had an easy workaround. Just got the parts ordered and I'll post up once I have it all figured out. I should have done this as well for the speaker wiring instead of tapping into the wiring. The front driver door speaker also goes through BJ1, pins 7 & 8. Oh well!

No problem. I happen to like wiring, and I somewhat recently diagnosed and fixed my own problem with the power windows, so the circuiting was all pretty fresh in my mind. The only difference is that in the LX450, it's connector BN1 instead of BJ1.

Cheers

 

[jcardona1]

No problem. I happen to like wiring, and I somewhat recently diagnosed and fixed my own problem with the power windows, so the circuiting was all pretty fresh in my mind. The only difference is that in the LX450, it's connector BN1 instead of BJ1.

Cheers

Okay quick update! Got all the parts ordered and gave it a try, no dice! The pins seemed a bit small for the connector so I removed them from the plug and connected the terminals straight to pins 11/12/15/16/17 in the body-side BJ1. Still no working rear windows!

Any ideas? Could it have something to do with the power line at terminal 1? What about all the tie-ins with the various relays? Or maybe the system is confused without the window lock switch?

 

[scottryana]

Just tube the rear doors. lol

 

[ProjectsNMotion]

Okay quick update! Got all the parts ordered and gave it a try, no dice! The pins seemed a bit small for the connector so I removed them from the plug and connected the terminals straight to pins 11/12/15/16/17 in the body-side BJ1. Still no working rear windows!

Any ideas? Could it have something to do with the power line at terminal 1? What about all the tie-ins with the various relays? Or maybe the system is confused without the window lock switch?

When you say you "connected the terminals", what terminals, new terminals for a new "door" connector? What are those terminals wired to, it looks like you have some sort of wire loom? The idea should be to connect those 5 terminals together, is that what you did?

Cheers

 

[jcardona1]

When you say you "connected the terminals", what terminals, new terminals for a new "door" connector? What are those terminals wired to, it looks like you have some sort of wire loom? The idea should be to connect those 5 terminals together, is that what you did?

Cheers

Yup, those 5 wires are all bridged together.

 

[ProjectsNMotion]

Yup, those 5 wires are all bridged together.

I took a look at the wiring diagrams again. I overlooked that the door lock control relay for some reason also controls the power relay that controls +12V for the power windows. I think that might be for the power window operation after the vehicle is turned off but before the door is opened. If you put pins 1 and 20 on BJ1 together, that should provide +12V to the rear windows. In doing so, you're bypassing the power relay for the windows. A better solution may be to put pins 6 and 8 on BJ2 together, but start with the pins in BJ1 for now to verify the solution and see if you have any issues.

Edit: I would recommend putting pins 1 and 20 on connector BJ1 together as a test and, if successful, leaving those 2 pins separate long term and instead putting pins 6 and 8 on connector BJ2 together as a long term solution. The reason being putting pins 1 and 20 in BJ1 together will give battery power to the rear windows, i.e. the rear windows are operable even if the vehicle is off and the keys are removed. Putting pins 6 and 8 in BJ2 together will give power to the rear windows only when ignition power is on.

Cheers

 

[jcardona1]

I took a look at the wiring diagrams again. I overlooked that the door lock control relay for some reason also controls the power relay that controls +12V for the power windows. I think that might be for the power window operation after the vehicle is turned off but before the door is opened. If you put pins 1 and 20 on BJ1 together, that should provide +12V to the rear windows. In doing so, you're bypassing the power relay for the windows. A better solution may be to put pins 6 and 8 on BJ2 together, but start with the pins in BJ1 for now to verify the solution and see if you have any issues.

Edit: I would recommend putting pins 1 and 20 on connector BJ1 together as a test and, if successful, leaving those 2 pins separate long term and instead putting pins 6 and 8 on connector BJ2 together as a long term solution. The reason being putting pins 1 and 20 in BJ1 together will give battery power to the rear windows, i.e. the rear windows are operable even if the vehicle is off and the keys are removed. Putting pins 6 and 8 in BJ2 together will give power to the rear windows only when ignition power is on.

Cheers

Success!!! Connecting pins 1 & 20 did the trick, thanks again for all your help

For the 2 other people that might have this problem, here are the pins you need to connect together (by color) at the big connector in the kick panel when you remove the door.

This is the contraption I made yesterday using Toyota plug 90980-10810. I just need to revise it to add the new pins 1 & 20 mentioned above. When I remove the door, I just plug this into and my rear windows will work once again.

And that's how you enjoy tube doors and rear power windows that work

 

[ProjectsNMotion]

Success!!! Connecting pins 1 & 20 did the trick, thanks again for all your help

Finally, you can crack the rear windows to let a little fresh air in

Cheers

 

[jcardona1]

Finally, you can crack the rear windows to let a little fresh air in

Cheers

Thanks! Just saw your edit regarding pins 6 & 8. You're right, with pins 1 & 20 the rear windows will work at all times with the ignition off. I don't think I mind this though when running tube doors on the trail. So I think I'll run it like this for a while.

 

[TYM4FUN]

Nice work.

 

[nukegoat]

I took a look at the wiring diagrams again. I overlooked that the door lock control relay for some reason also controls the power relay that controls +12V for the power windows. I think that might be for the power window operation after the vehicle is turned off but before the door is opened. If you put pins 1 and 20 on BJ1 together, that should provide +12V to the rear windows. In doing so, you're bypassing the power relay for the windows. A better solution may be to put pins 6 and 8 on BJ2 together, but start with the pins in BJ1 for now to verify the solution and see if you have any issues.

Edit: I would recommend putting pins 1 and 20 on connector BJ1 together as a test and, if successful, leaving those 2 pins separate long term and instead putting pins 6 and 8 on connector BJ2 together as a long term solution. The reason being putting pins 1 and 20 in BJ1 together will give battery power to the rear windows, i.e. the rear windows are operable even if the vehicle is off and the keys are removed. Putting pins 6 and 8 in BJ2 together will give power to the rear windows only when ignition power is on.

Cheers

I thougth pin 8 was the speaker negative?

 

[nukegoat]

Also, the part number for the female connector for this is 90980-10811, not 90980-10810 (that's the male side AFAIK). Way to mislead people, @jcardona1

 

[jcardona1]

Also, the part number for the female connector for this is 90980-10811, not 90980-10810 (that's the male side AFAIK). Way to mislead people, @jcardona1

Congrats, you found the easter egg.

 

[jcardona1]

I thougth pin 8 was the speaker negative?
View attachment 2773225

BJ1 vs BJ2, different connectors.